YJ suspension/comp cut

[Pat]

Picked up my new tires today (36 Iroks) and they are little tighter fit than I expected.
Now to figure out how to make them fit...
I was just going to cut the rear but the front of the rear tire is too close to the tub/b-pillar.
So I guess the axle is getting moved back.
Time for spring over?? Or is there another way?
And the gas tank relocated and the comp cut.
The front could use a little more clearance too, an inch or two forward with the front axle then.
So I've opened up this can of worms and I'm looking for advice before I venture blindly into this project.

XJ springs in the rear? Stock, unmodified, and ran backwards, spring over? Can I hang these from the stock spring hangers and shackles?

Waggy springs in front? Any wagoneer spring or just fronts or certain one to look for? There's a wagoneer in the yard with 4 springs on it...
Should I also shackle reverse the front?

Astro van steering box?

I will also need to have steel welded to cast to do spring over with my front axle, where or how to get that done?

Will wheel spacers keep front tires off leafs when turning or should I just live with less turning radius?

Any suggestions, guidance, or knowledge would be much appreciated. :redneck:

 

[2pwrlftrs4u]

yours may be different but my CJ w/shackle reversal, 4" YJ RE Springs and tube fenders have no problems clearing 36" IROKs

rear has TJ flares....

PSC box/pump

 

[TreeClimber]

My YJ has 37s with just minor trimming. You don't need to move anything. Just pull your flairs. Sawzall or jigsaw or grinder all the extra sheetmetal away. When trimming, remember you can always cut a little extra with a second pass, but it's a pain to add that steel back. Then buy some TJ flairs and trim them to fit the opening. Four inch lift with BDS springs, in factory location, still spring under axle (but with D44/D60 combo)

 

[Pat]

Thanks, I thought I should be able to fit these without major surgery. :redneck:
Here is a pic of the one spot I was thinking to be the biggest problem. The short line on the right is plumb with the tire, the line on the left is the furthest forward I can cut. But I guess I'm dreaming if I think I have enough flex to stuff it that far:haha:
I'm off to do some sawzall work...

 

[TreeClimber]

Thanks, I thought I should be able to fit these without major surgery. :redneck:
Here is a pic of the one spot I was thinking to be the biggest problem. The short line on the right is plumb with the tire, the line on the left is the furthest forward I can cut. But I guess I'm dreaming if I think I have enough flex to stuff it that far:haha:
I'm off to do some sawzall work...

That is the biggest problem spot, but don't worry, it'll trim also. Just cut it back until you clear. Try not to cut the weld, but I cut just under an inch there.

To get a nice cut, I made a cheap templet by using an 19 inch string on with a pushpin on one end and a sharpie on the other. Scribe a circle onto a piece of 1/4 plywood, and cut. Throw the circle away and use the scrap piece as a templet on side of the jeep. Push it absolutely as far forward as you can, and then rescribe the line onto the side of the jeep. The 19 inch string will net you a 38 inch semi-circle, which should easily clear your 36s.

 

[Money Mark]

Cut the **** outta that thing Pat! :FIREdevil:

Less is more......

 

[crazybluerider1]

Remember that as the axle stuffs it will move in the direction of the shackle also. So in your pic the tire will move away from your line. By the time the tire is high enough to hit you body there it should be behind the longer line.
:awesomework:

 

[JOOP]

you dont have to SOA to make those Irok's work.