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89 S10 build for rocks

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Donahue

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Mar 31, 2006
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Springfield, OR
i havent really posted here much in the past, but i think i might start.

ive just started to really build up my little s10 blazer. i wheeled it a little when it was stock (i bought it to beat it). i ended up breaking a back window. so i just went and cut the top off, and the doors too. i felt it need a little bit better traction, so i welded the rear end and cut the fenders for some 32's. but that was really just killing time until i could find a garage to work in. now that i have found a place to work, i have torn it apart to build it from the ground up. right now the chassis is sitting with no body on it, and i just tore the IFS and rear axle out tonight.

here are the plans:
front axle:
74' HP 44 housing (ford)
knuckles and brakes from an 8 lug chevy 44
1 1/2" wheel spacers on each side
4.56 gears
detroit locker
behind the axle steering

rear axle:
14 bolt from a van
im keeping the drum brakes because they are like brand new (plus i will retain the e-brake)
4.56 gears
welded spiders
possibly shave housing for 3" more clearance (shaved ring gear, cut and plated housing)

suspension:
3 link with panhard front and rear
jeep tj coils
square tube link material
poly bushings all around

engine:
flipped air cleaner lid
other than that, bone stock to keep it reliable

gear boxes:
stock t5 trans
231c mated to a 241c w/ D&D doubler adapter
square tube front driveline

other:
38.5x16x15 tsl's
15x10 8 lug black steel w/ 4" BS
rock sliders
probably the start of an exo cage
 
thanks, i like doing this a bit differently.

i got pretty much everything torched off tonight that is getting torched off. i also set my frame height, and my axles under it for a look at the WB and overall height. i set my frame at 25", and my WB at about 112". im not sure but i think i am about somewhere between 6-10" of lift right now, possibly right at 6.5". i want to keep it somewhat low, but with a balance of lift and clearance. i think i am liking it so far.
 
i got a bunch of crap made for my suspension.



upper link axle end:
PIC_0392.sized.jpg

lower link axle ends:
PIC_0398.sized.jpg

frame panhard bar mounts:
PIC_0399.sized.jpg

upper link frame mount:
PIC_0400.sized.jpg

i made different ones for the rear and front:
PIC_0401.sized.jpg

upper coil bucket:
PIC_0402.sized.jpg

PIC_0403.sized.jpg

lower coil bucket:
PIC_0405.sized.jpg

PIC_0404.sized.jpg

and of course my bitchen sq. tube adapting bushing ends from suicide doors:
PIC_0407.sized.jpg
 
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s10

not trying to be a nay sayer here...I am doing the same deal...without the super nice brackets like those (very nice) buttttt that dang 207 is going to shoot you in the foot ...That is the blah that i got when it came down to looking at the drop of the axle...The 700r4 auto mates with the 208 bigger badder for the $ but changes yer exhaust and drop to pass side..just for thought! I have heard alot of bad and very little to none on the 207 if thats what is in there...manual?auto?? We shoud get picks on it soon here you might like it we did a 15"bob on the thing with 8"of front dove??
 
aircrawler said:
not trying to be a nay sayer here...I am doing the same deal...without the super nice brackets like those (very nice) buttttt that dang 207 is going to shoot you in the foot ...That is the blah that i got when it came down to looking at the drop of the axle...The 700r4 auto mates with the 208 bigger badder for the $ but changes yer exhaust and drop to pass side..just for thought! I have heard alot of bad and very little to none on the 207 if thats what is in there...manual?auto?? We shoud get picks on it soon here you might like it we did a 15"bob on the thing with 8"of front dove??
Click to expand...
mine doesnt have a 207, its an 89. it came with a 231. plus, i am running a 231/241 doubler so i doubt that will be an issue. and i am a stick guy all the way. i am running a hp axle on the drivers side. also, you really cant bob a blazer without relocating the gas tank, and i dont want to do that just yet. it will have 90* front approach angle, or damn close to it, and it will be realy wide with the axles and tires, so i dont need to dovetail anything.

did you even read anything on the first post?
 
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updates:

well, i got my ring gear back today from my dad's shop. i had it turned down about 3/4" all the way around. now i need to shave the bottom of my differential to take up all the room i just gave it. i am going to take off about 3" from the bottom of my 14b. here is the ring gear, before and after.

before:
PIC_0387.sized.jpg

PIC_0388.sized.jpg

PIC_0391.sized.jpg

PIC_0270.sized.jpg



after:
PIC_0409.sized.jpg

PIC_0408.sized.jpg

PIC_0418.sized.jpg

PIC_0413.sized.jpg

PIC_0416.sized.jpg


now before everyone questions this, i am fully aware of the risks, and how likely it is to break now. i am ok with that, and this is an experiment. if i do break this, i will have to replace my entire housing. and if it doesnt work, then i will just go back to the normal ring gear/housing.
 
Donahue said:
how much extra work is it really? if i am going to shave the housing anyways, this isnt much farther. plus i will have about 3" better clearance.
Click to expand...

i think he means it's a lot of work to a set of used, and not so good looking i might add, gears, everytime you break them or wear them out... i would really be concerned with those gears now, looking at the pitting that was going on, i personally would not have ran them in "Stock" form... plus if the machining heated them up at all....
 
Donahue said:
how much extra work is it really? if i am going to shave the housing anyways, this isnt much farther. plus i will have about 3" better clearance.
Click to expand...

Just comparing it to the amount of work needed to get even more clearance from a junkyard 9" housing.
 


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