89 S10 build for rocks

Donahue · Dec 12, 2007

the s10 is a very underutilized platform. you toy guys think your **** is made of gold, and jack up the prices of anything that has anything to do with toyota. while i can get s10 stuff for near free all day long. trust me, i am very content with my s10 stuff. you can have your toyota's, i will stick to my s10's. this way everyone is happy.

crash2 · Dec 12, 2007

Donahue said:
the s10 is a very underutilized platform. you toy guys think your **** is made of gold, and jack up the prices of anything that has anything to do with toyota. while i can get s10 stuff for near free all day long. trust me, i am very content with my s10 stuff. you can have your toyota's, i will stick to my s10's. this way everyone is happy.

Easy big fella--I just threw some input from years of building and even building on s-10's and working around chevs for 18 years.....

And who said I have a toy.....

Donahue · Dec 12, 2007

crash said:
Easy big fella--I just threw some input from years of building and even building on s-10's and working around chevs for 18 years.....

And who said I have a toy.....

no, im good.

i got no hard feelings. if you could see my face when i wrote that, i had a smirk.:flipoff:

Boonie Buster · Dec 12, 2007

crash said:
Easy big fella--I just threw some input from years of building and even building on s-10's and working around chevs for 18 years.....

And who said I have a toy.....

true enough, the only thing toy left is the hood and fenders.:fawkdancesmiley: :haha:

donahuey:

I'm running springs front and rear, sorry to confuse you, although i don't know if you know much about the s-10 frame stuff, but they did SORT of used to build a front spring hanger, that required some mods to it.... but i dont think it's that bad, since you don't have to remount the body onto the toy frame.

CHOP SHOP · Dec 12, 2007

i would rather do suspension work than swap a fuelie motor. the s10 provides a good sart if you plan on doing axles. I like the shaved axle ideas too. :awesomework:

thanks for turning down the oppurtunity to spend money when not needed.

people seem to think 4x4 need to be built like streetrods. more trucks need cheap/free junk on them. you can find a million s10 trucks at the pullapart. a toyota motor costs more than a driving s10.:redneck:

spend a little money were its needed on drivetrain and tires. then KEEP IT CHEAP.:cheer:

I think this hobby gets too much ---- YOU SHOULDA, WHYDIDJA, WTF, HOWCOMES.

youll see, you wont find many of the mouths on the trail. there busy wheeling a 5+ rated keyboard.:fawkdancesmiley: :fawkdancesmiley:

Donahue · Dec 12, 2007

at least someone gets it. my last "build" all i ever did was build. it never got finished. it would look impressive i guess in a sig line "85k5/350/700/241/205/60/14/4.56" blah blah blah. the truth is nothing ever came of it, because i cared to much what everyone else thought to the point that i started altering my ideas to make it "better". screw that, now i am building this thing to get it out of that garage and on the trail. sure something will break, but wheres the fun and that challenge if your stuff is too good?

Boonie Buster · Dec 12, 2007

Donahue said:
at least someone gets it. my last "build" all i ever did was build. it never got finished. it would look impressive i guess in a sig line "85k5/350/700/241/205/60/14/4.56" blah blah blah. the truth is nothing ever came of it, because i cared to much what everyone else thought to the point that i started altering my ideas to make it "better". screw that, now i am building this thing to get it out of that garage and on the trail. sure something will break, but wheres the fun and that challenge if your stuff is too good?

thats what my friend said about his rig:haha: " i just want to get it out and i don't care what people think" ..... it's a death trap, poor welds, poor design, and most of all , it isn't SAFE!

so heed my warning about "getting it done to go".... take your time, do it right... whether it be influenced by others or yourself....

aircrawler · Dec 12, 2007

Ya Know>>>>>

That is true I hate the blah blah too ....sometimes. another thing is to not put your rig on here..BUT if you did that ...it would not give you the opproytunity(WTF) (sorry don't want to stop typing this) to WEED through some of these potentially GOOD ideas...However the weigh in on spending money goes to the capable...ding ding...If you have a good Idea but need the engineers to slap you in the back of the head to tell you "yer gunna kill yerself boy" then that comes more into play in the initial design.. Leaf coil link blah blah chopper. Nowadays there is too much information "flying" around for even a newbee or part timer to throw the money in that direction and ..getrdun.. If you can't afford to play golf then watch it on tv. if you want to play golf play it and not sit on the f*n couch and say you can! JUST DO WHAT YOU WANT BUT SAFE! overbuilding! is GOOOOOOOD! LOL see? NOW stop f*n around and finish this thing I wanna see it.:corn:

Donahue · Dec 12, 2007

yeah, im not saying that i wont build it well. im just saying i wont buy into the hype.

Donahue · Dec 12, 2007

i also just found out that i am running about 7" of lift

.

Donahue · Dec 14, 2007

updates

i did a little cut and burn on my real estate. now where there was once wedge bushings and panhard bar mounts and leaf perches, there is clean!

let me tell you, there is definitely a right way and a wrong way to take the wedges off. i think i found all of the wrong ways before i found the easy way. it seems they are only welded at the very top and the very bottom, not around the tube at all. so all you really need to do is cut the welds off, and they fall right off. and of course my 14b had the cast perches, i guess that is what i get for saying they were a piece of cake to take off. anyways, they put up a little fight but i won in the end.

getting back on topic, the night was still young so i kept on working. i threw my spring up for those that were wondering. just imagine it a little more off the axle tube height wise.

anyways, i busted out the old sharpie and tape measure and started mapping out where everything was going. my spring plates are about as wide as they can be on the axle, they are touching the welds for the inner c. i did this so i can have room for my upper link tower on the drivers side next to the pumpkin.

i soon realized that i still didnt have much room on the short side, so i made a executive decision to run the link tower partially on the cast pumpkin. i did this so i would have good room to get good welds on all the components.

this meant that i had to fit one of the link tower sides to the housing. i used a piece of cardboard to make a template.

here is the final shape

here it is fitted to the housing

i went ahead and started tacking things on to get a better idea of how it will all work together.

you can see my caster and my pinion angle in the last pic, that is how it will be in the truck. caster is dialed in at 6* and the pinion points up nicely.

Paulie · Dec 14, 2007

Ive got your toy frame, no title. FREE

Donahue · Dec 14, 2007

Paulie said:
Ive got your toy frame, no title. FREE

too late

aircrawler · Dec 14, 2007

Wow

DAM NICE SIR!:beer:

Donahue · Dec 14, 2007

thanks

Donahue · Dec 15, 2007

well, i decided to tackle the gear boxes tonight. i needed to get my doubler in before i can figure out my rear pinion angle. anyways...

so i had a spare t5 ready to put in when i had the chance because my old one grinds a lot in 4th. well, i broke it (the spare one) trying to put it in after inspecting my clutch. i didnt have the angle quite right, and when i was trying to draw it in, i broke the pilot bearing portion off. on top of that i also broke an ear off of the bell housing.

the good news was my clutch as in good shape.

anyways, i ended up slapping the old trans back in with a spare bell housing i luckily had. then i went ahead and put the doubler in place. i still need to clock it up more, but this gives me a good idea of the condition of the rear drive shaft. it looks like it will be really short, about 26" from u-joint to u-joint.

and finally, my rear shaft angles

Donahue · Dec 15, 2007

i had to clock the 241 up a bit to keep a flat belly. the s10 drivetrain slopes down a lot as it goes to the rear. but, this helps my driveline clearance so i am happy with it.

my gear boxes