Redemption

Nuzzy · Jul 11, 2009

Bye bye stupid old cage. I didn't like you from day one and now I say, "Get the **** outta my jeep!"

More on that later.

However, in the meantime... Apparently my friend Brian felt like cutting and my jeep happened to be in the way.

Then Mike joined the assault

Due to some issues with the sheet metal, we decided it best to put the diamond plate back on after re cutting and re bending it. I may be the only jeep with dove'd diamond plate corners :redneck:

Still awaiting grinding

The cage is all done in Bend Tech and looks rather naughty

Next week should be fun :gunz:

nate8887 · Jul 11, 2009

Are you going to do a shackle reversal?

Money Mark · Jul 11, 2009

nate8887 said:
Are you going to do a shackle reversal?

That (Sam's) suspension works so good.

I wouldn't......

Chop, cut, re-build Nuzzster:clappy:

Nuzzy · Jul 11, 2009

nate8887 said:
Are you going to do a shackle reversal?

On the front...?

God NO!!

Suspension on this won't get touched until down the road when I back half and air shock it.

Nuzzy · Jul 11, 2009

Money Mark said:
That (Sam's) suspension works so good.

I wouldn't......

Chop, cut, re-build Nuzzster:clappy:

Dove + cage + few other minor things + few nights after work = free!

Working at an offroad fab shop has it's benies :redneck:

nate8887 · Jul 11, 2009

Oh i was just wondering. you air shocking the front to?

Cascade_Crawler · Jul 11, 2009

shackles in the front rock. Nuzz man, I would suggest building a traction bar for the front as well. My buddy just put one on the front of his YJ, much better!! I probably could have saved a few leaf packs if I would have done the same.

nate8887 · Jul 11, 2009

It just seems like the design is working against itself when trying to climb obstacles. I guess I need to do some research.

Money Mark · Jul 11, 2009

Let it go Nate. It just works.

nate8887 · Jul 11, 2009

Well I ask for future building on my rig. Not to critisize his.

TreeClimber · Jul 11, 2009

nate8887 said:
It just seems like the design is working against itself when trying to climb obstacles. I guess I need to do some research.

You WANT it to be pushed forward, which causes traction against the obsticle, allowing it to climb up and over. When it's a rear shackle, the tire pushes away as it tries to climb, causing wheel hop.

Wheel hop = bad
Traction = good.

nate8887 · Jul 11, 2009

Thank you. how do you keep from breaking centering pins.

Nuzzy · Jul 11, 2009

nate8887 said:
Oh i was just wondering. you air shocking the front to?

I'm not air shocking either end right now. Just doving because I want to and the cage design hinged on it :awesomework:

Cascade_Crawler said:
shackles in the front rock. Nuzz man, I would suggest building a traction bar for the front as well. My buddy just put one on the front of his YJ, much better!! I probably could have saved a few leaf packs if I would have done the same.

That thought has gone in and out of my mind a few times... So you were killing front leaf packs in yours huh? Might take a gander on Monday to see if I could jam one in.

nate8887 said:
It just seems like the design is working against itself when trying to climb obstacles. I guess I need to do some research.

Give and take. It does work against itself with arched springs (the opposite is true with flat springs). But that can also put more pressure towards traction on the obstacle. The big problem is that with shackle reverse, the axle wants to walk away from the vehicle and unload during climbs making for shitty climbing charactersitcs.

Well, that and the need for an expensive long slip drive shaft that still can pull apart.

I was shackle reverse a long time ago. Sam showed me the light

nate8887 · Jul 11, 2009

Gotcha thanks man I appreciate it. Grew up with old school trying to see what works best for me.

TreeClimber · Jul 11, 2009

nate8887 said:
Thank you. how do you keep from breaking centering pins.

Personally, I've never broken a front. Broken two rear center pins in 20 years of abuse. When it happened I drilled out the springs, and ran a bigger bolt thru the hole. Never happened again. Center pins break because they're loose, allowing the springs to work back and forth against the pin's shank, litterally wearing a groove in the pin until it breaks. By installing a larger shank, hardened bolt, you reduce the wearing of the groove, increase the clamping force at the center, and substantially reduce breakage.

I found a drill press extremely valuable drilling the spring-steel of the leafs.

edit - sorry Nuzz, hijack off

Nuzzy · Jul 11, 2009

nate8887 said:
Thank you. how do you keep from breaking centering pins.

Don't ram things that wont move

Hell if I know. Haven't broken any yet, but I carry spare grade 8s rounded off as spares.

nate8887 · Jul 11, 2009

Fordzuki · Jul 11, 2009

Nuzzy said:
Don't ram things that wont move

That's gotta be the most valuable advise on the internet. Ever.

Looking good Nuzz. :awesomework:

luggs · Jul 12, 2009

if you guys want look at my 4 runner it is still the only one around with shakles in the front and it blows everyone away it works killer .it keeps a natural pivet like links and the front drive line .it twist up more then all of my buddys trail gear leafs and people think at first it is links .

oh its a trailer rig but i can do 65 mph no problem:redneck: