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Good start to my 4.3 swap

Piss!

Well ****, I got what I paid for. I tested the fuel pressure tonight and I have 5psi. I pinched the return line and didn't get anymore so I guess my free pump is fawked. Might explain why she won't fire..........................
 
I removed the Toy pump and a pump from a chevy fits right in it's place with very little changes. I was given a pump from a 96' Blazer but it seems to be bad. Lots of flow but no press. I was just looking and I might even be able to get it out w/o dropping th tank again.:cheer:

As for your question about the air filter, I haven't nailed that down yet. I have a filter I just need to get a tube bent up.
 
Ok so I took some pics since this is a "build thread" just in case someone else wants to mount the pump this way.

View attachment 45495


After removing the Toyota pump I drilled out the rivets that the wires attach to.

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Then I spread out the bottom of the mount so the new pump grommit would fit. I ground the sharp edges down so they wouldn't cut the new strainer.

View attachment 45497

I used an Airtex pump. A stock replacement from a 95' S10 Blazer.

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I put a piece of fuel hose behind the pump and added a hose clamp to secure the pump to the mount.

View attachment 45499

I attached the GM wires using 6mm bolts and whamo I have a new GM pump in my Toyota tank
 

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So I installed the new pump and checked the fuel pressure. It builds to 60psi and holds when the key is off. I hit he key and it started within 5sec:cheer:
I topped off all the fluids and drove it around the lot for the 1st time in months:D

I got the timing set to 0deg but when I plug the est back in it surges and idles like **** so I have some tinkering to do. Also, when I kick it in gear it dies but I think that is a symptom of the erratic idle.

I was able to crawl over some ecology blocks in the yard and actually drive on the trailer under power which was very nice. Winching on the trailer every sunday night sucks!
 
Ok, so I timed it and it runs ok. It idles a bit rough but drives ok. I timed it with the DST unplugged and the CEL was on w/ a code 42 which I figure is because the DST is unplugged. When I plug the DST in and start it the engine revs to about 1000RPMs then slowly dies, no CEL. What are the odds that with the headers open it is tripping the knock sensors and changing the timing? Seems weird. I don't even have the O2 sensor plugged in yet but no codes for that. Any ideas would be appreciated.
 
I assume you and I are talking about the same thing. The plug that disables the electronic timing? Only code 42 unplugged and has a slight miss at Idle but good at higher RPM. Plugged in no codes but won't idle.
 
Just a couple of pics.
 

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I guess we'll find out tomorrow! She still doesn't seem to run purrrfect. But I haven't really opened her up to clean the plugs off. Spent a lot of time idling running very rich.

Crash do you have a wiring schematic for the EGR? The plug on the howell harness is backwards. I called Troy and he said it's a 92-93 not a 94-95 motor and the plugs were different but the way I have it plugged in should work. Notice the lock tab is on the back, opposite of the lock.

Also, WTF is supposed to be hooked to the vacuum port under the throttle plate? I have it plugged now.
 

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For a 92'

Terminal A egr control (A3)
B Sensor ground (A11)
C Pintle position signal (D8)
D 5v reference (C14)
E Ign feed (A6)


Is the port like 1/2"?
 
Thanks :awesomework:

crash said:
Is the port like 1/2"?
Click to expand...

No, it's the 1/4" nipple sticking out the bottom below the TPS. You can see it in the pic just to the right of the EGR wiring.

Edit: the hole may be 1/2" but there is a black bushing pressed in to neck it down to the little metal tube.
 
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