Toy Story

Maverick26 · Jan 30, 2014

Well I have known the guy for many years, he is a very good friend and a solid mechanic. He makes his living as a mechanic also. This was is first Toyota gear install though. He normally does Dana stuff as he works for a Jeep/dodge dealership. I am a complete newb when it comes to setting up R&P and dont claim to know anything, this is the reason I took it to someone to do it. I agree, I have lots of cash into this setup so thanks for the heads up. Im going to relay your info to him and have him take another look at them next week sometime.

zukkev · Jan 30, 2014

CHOP SHOP said:
Just remember, EVERYONE that sets up toy gears will tell you they know what they are doing.

Toy gears fall so close to acceptable so many times that they make amature installers feel like a pro.

Just have the same guy set up a d60 with spicer gears and see how he does.

I would be concerned with the ARB and bearing preloads too. This kinda work leads to "I have Arb problems" threads.

Thats ALLOT of money to trust someone with.

IMHO it don't matter what axle yer setting up, a good pattern is a good pattern, as is a bad pattern is a bad pattern...:awesomework:

CHOP SHOP · Jan 30, 2014

zukkev said:
IMHO it don't matter what axle yer setting up, a good pattern is a good pattern, as is a bad pattern is a bad pattern...:awesomework:

Yes but one set on a toyota and ya can generally call the next/final pattern.

I tend to have to set a spicer a couple times to get into the right area, then fine set.

Generally an amateur will have an easier time getting a toyota close as compared to other axles.

Toys are so close stock and consistent that its easy to get overconfident.

I feel that bearing preloads are often overlooked too.

DHR Darren · Jan 30, 2014

CHOP SHOP said:
Yes but one set on a toyota and ya can generally call the next/final pattern.

I tend to have to set a spicer a couple times to get into the right area, then fine set.

Generally an amateur will have an easier time getting a toyota close as compared to other axles.

Toys are so close stock and consistent that its easy to get overconfident.

I feel that bearing preloads are often overlooked too.

Some may chime in and say otherwise but bearing preloads are a huge part of gear setup dictated by intended use. For instance I set up a 9" center with tighter preload for a drag radial application than I do for a big tire slick application. Same goes for an automatic powered daily driver on 35s to a wheeler on 40s with a stick.

Maverick26 · Jan 31, 2014

Ok guys, here is some more gear pattern pics. Let it rip.

Pics are Drive side rear, Drive side front, Drive side coast. The coast side rear is in the other page.

Maverick26 · Jan 31, 2014

More pics of what I have been doing.

zukkev · Jan 31, 2014

Oh Ya, Waaay too deep...Good thing it was caught now instead of after being run...might cost ya a couple pinion seals, but...
If the guy that set these up knows anything about setting up gears, he should have known this. Dana or not, a pattern is a pattern Nick...:awesomework:

Maverick26 · Jan 31, 2014

zukkev said:
Oh Ya, Waaay too deep...Good thing it was caught now instead of after being run...might cost ya a couple pinion seals, but...
If the guy that set these up knows anything about setting up gears, he should have known this. Dana or not, a pattern is a pattern Nick...:awesomework:

Ok, so if you were going to correct this in one shop what would you do? Remove some pinion shims? .010"? Its the pinion depth shim not the preload shims. I also am running the solid spacers.

zukkev · Jan 31, 2014

Likely not gonna get it in one shot, AND when you change pinion depth, you HAVE to change preload shims as well to obtain the proper preload......

Maverick26 · Jan 31, 2014

zukkev said:
Likely not gonna get it in one shot, AND when you change pinion depth, you HAVE to change preload shims as well to obtain the proper preload......

Ya I kinda figure that out after I posted that. Take some off the depth and put some on the preload side. Ok, well Ill get it dialed in and Ill post up hear before I install them on the truck again.

]2eDeYe · Jan 31, 2014

Maverick26 said:
More pics of what I have been doing.

Mind if I ask where you were able to get the Ford shock towers? The dealer I called told me they were obsolete... :eeek:

Maverick26 · Jan 31, 2014

]2eDeYe;1014255 said:
Mind if I ask where you were able to get the Ford shock towers? The dealer I called told me they were obsolete... :eeek:

ebay bro, just google them too. I think Lowrange offroad sells them too.

]2eDeYe · Jan 31, 2014

Thanks

TreeClimber · Jan 31, 2014

]2eDeYe;1014255 said:
Mind if I ask where you were able to get the Ford shock towers? The dealer I called told me they were obsolete... :eeek:

I bought mine from the local dealer, about a year ago.

Mark m. · Jan 31, 2014

Did you try the ford dealer in snohomish?

zukkev · Jan 31, 2014

Maverick26 said:
Ya I kinda figure that out after I posted that. Take some off the depth and put some on the preload side. Ok, well Ill get it dialed in and Ill post up hear before I install them on the truck again.

Nope, Ask me how I know.! Here's the long and short of it...
If you add pinion depth shims under the inner pinion, you add pinion preload shims to take up the clearances..
IF you remove pinion depth shims (like in your case), you'll need to remove pinion preload shims to get the preload back...

CHOP SHOP · Feb 1, 2014

zukkev said:
when you change pinion depth, you HAVE to change preload shims as well to obtain the proper preload......

The pinion preload will not change with depth changes. Your not typing what you should be thinking! :redneck:

Nick,

The pinion head has shims under it to set the DEPTH. The solid spacer has shims on it to set the distance/preload of the bearings. This shim pack needs to be left alone if the preload is acceptable as it sits. Pinion preload should be 10-15 inch/lbs with NO pinion seal and no carrier installed.

The shim pack under the pinion head will need to be a tiny bit shorter. That will let the pinion head be closer to the bearing or further away from the carrier/ring.

Remember to locktite the cap bolts and spanner lock tabs (12mm) once your all done.

CHOP SHOP · Feb 1, 2014

zukkev said:
Nope, Ask me how I know.! Here's the long and short of it...
If you add pinion depth shims under the inner pinion, you add pinion preload shims to take up the clearances..
IF you remove pinion depth shims (like in your case), you'll need to remove pinion preload shims to get the preload back...

Now I understand your thinking. You shim under the bearing RACES, correct?

I shim behind the large pinion bearing. Just my preferred way and its simple. :beer:

zukkev · Feb 1, 2014

CHOP SHOP said:
Now I understand your thinking. You shim under the bearing RACES, correct?

I shim behind the large pinion bearing. Just my preferred way and its simple. :beer:

No, I do not use shims under the race, NOW if the guy that set up your gears Nick is using shims under the race to set depth, it WILL change your preload therefore requiring a change in shims... I Digress Choppy, I got my D44-60's/Toy's mixed up...:haha: :awesomework:
Bottom line is, make sure your depth is good, AND preload is set properly, and backlash is good, AND everything is lock-tighted (red)...