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Help Support Hardline Crawlers :
The new "Crashfab"
- Thread starter crash2
- Start date
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Time to start the air system. I will be doing it in 3/4" copper.
I got the part of the system done in the shed. There is coupling right off the compressor in case of needing to unhook from the system.
I also got the shelf rack put in the shed so besides the latch on the door and possibly a couple vents for heat its all done in there.
I got the part of the system done in the shed. There is coupling right off the compressor in case of needing to unhook from the system.
I also got the shelf rack put in the shed so besides the latch on the door and possibly a couple vents for heat its all done in there.
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crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
So I got off to a good start tonight before I miscalculated on fittings and ran out,lol..
Just like my old shop I have a gravity catch (goes to the ceiling). I will also be running 2 filters/water traps and an adjustable regulator in case I need to knock the pressure down.
Just like my old shop I have a gravity catch (goes to the ceiling). I will also be running 2 filters/water traps and an adjustable regulator in case I need to knock the pressure down.
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Maverick26
As iron sharpens iron...
Are you putting Romex inside conduit? I am not sure if you are doing any of this on a permit from the county/L&I but.... 99% of the time romex violates the fill capacity of the conduit per the NEC. I guess what I am trying to say is you have to size the conduit for the romex if you chose to not use THHN.
Also, some guys say romex inside conduit can cause excess heat in the wires.
If you are just running romex inside conduit for short runs up and down walls I would not get excited about anything.
You probably know all this already... This shop is looking nice man.
Also, some guys say romex inside conduit can cause excess heat in the wires.
If you are just running romex inside conduit for short runs up and down walls I would not get excited about anything.
You probably know all this already... This shop is looking nice man.
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Romox inside conduit--no way. Its all single strand THHN inside steel.
Cole1
Well-Known Member
Im guessing it is not permitted, those handy boxes are only good for 3 #8's. To be to code you should have used 4 square box's instead.
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crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
I got the reels hung and the hardline ran over and all finished up. Plumbed the reels and pressure tested the whole works. Besides the leaky quick connect that I had laying around no leaks. I am going to grab new quick connects in the am and swap over to what we use at work so I don't have to swap ends when I need to drag any of my specialty tools into work.
So the air system is now done--another thing scratched off the list.
So the air system is now done--another thing scratched off the list.
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crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
So now comes the fun part of it all. I pulled the doors out of the crates and started going over the install part. The doors don't look to bad (the power motors look to be the hard part of that) its building the door jambs that will be the interesting part--never done anything of this nature.
But I figure I will start by pulling off the flashing and then start with the header and go from there.
But I figure I will start by pulling off the flashing and then start with the header and go from there.
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crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Thanks Anthony...
So I started getting the building ready for doors. I started by hanging the headers (header and jambs will be 4x6 pressure treated). Was slow going doing it solo but I got them up and into place.
This is all new to me so I am using my other 2 shops as examples and simply copying what I have seen.
So once the headers were in place I started with the center vertical jambs. I almost got them done tonight but its starting to take shape.
So soon here I will have to find a vendor for Metal sales to get the tin for the sides and flashing for around the doors.
So I started getting the building ready for doors. I started by hanging the headers (header and jambs will be 4x6 pressure treated). Was slow going doing it solo but I got them up and into place.
This is all new to me so I am using my other 2 shops as examples and simply copying what I have seen.
So once the headers were in place I started with the center vertical jambs. I almost got them done tonight but its starting to take shape.
So soon here I will have to find a vendor for Metal sales to get the tin for the sides and flashing for around the doors.
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crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Putting along and making good progress the last couple evenings. I got both outer jambs done.
The office side was tricky. Once I pulled the edge flashing I had to cut the existing 2x6's flush with the sheet metal so there was room to affix the new 2x6's to the beam.
On the far side I had to remove the gutter downspout and edge flashing---was fun with rain water dumping down it,lol...
The office side was tricky. Once I pulled the edge flashing I had to cut the existing 2x6's flush with the sheet metal so there was room to affix the new 2x6's to the beam.
On the far side I had to remove the gutter downspout and edge flashing---was fun with rain water dumping down it,lol...
Attachments
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Its been quite the learning experience.
I believe there is a general rule of thumb that has to do with the distance vs. the width for a span with no supports.I figured a 4x6 with no weight bearing on it would be ok (By rule of thumb I could be wrong,lol) and the roors will be mounted to the vertical jambs. And since the 4x6 is layed on its side there should be no forward/aft movement also. At least thats how I am looking at it (or over thinking it lol)..
So now I am trying to measure for siding material and flashing.
Thanks guys its been fun so far.
I believe there is a general rule of thumb that has to do with the distance vs. the width for a span with no supports.I figured a 4x6 with no weight bearing on it would be ok (By rule of thumb I could be wrong,lol) and the roors will be mounted to the vertical jambs. And since the 4x6 is layed on its side there should be no forward/aft movement also. At least thats how I am looking at it (or over thinking it lol)..
So now I am trying to measure for siding material and flashing.
Thanks guys its been fun so far.
