Yum... Tacos

crash2 · Oct 30, 2016

So I got the crossmember for the shocks and brake line routing/tab done and everything painted.

I had planned on having the rear almost done today but it ends up they sent us a v6 instead of the taco v6.

crash2 · Nov 2, 2016

PORTER said:
Nice work as always Mike. Your attention to detail from start to finish is worth everypenny.:awesomework:

I try :awesomework:

crash2 · Nov 2, 2016

So the vacuum canister was located on drivers side front inner fender well. A portion of the mounting was removed for the steering box. So I looked over how the system was and its there for a vacuum supply for the front diff. Since thats all gone now it can be removed. To seal the vacuum system I just turned the one way check valve around...

crash2 · Nov 2, 2016

Got the new firewall seal (TG) and its the right one. You can see the new one is much larger and fits the new firewall plate.

crash2 · Nov 2, 2016

Firewall plate and steering shaft all in now. The joint at the base of the steering column has no splines but a set screw. I flattened a spot on the shaft to lock the joint and then welded the joint to the column. The rest of the shaft I drilled shallow holes for the double set screws to bite into and then locked the screw with a nut. Should hold up nicely...

crash2 · Nov 2, 2016

We got the new fan shroud. I found it was actually an inch long but very workable. I just had to notch the very bottom and would have been less had it been a manual tranny. I actually found it was wrong after cutting one of the ears off so I figured I would just make it work--and it will :awesomework:

crash2 · Nov 2, 2016

With everything else in place it was time to do the fluid lines from the pump to the steering box. That was simple and straight forward.

crash2 · Nov 2, 2016

Got the fuel tank and rear wiring harness/tail lamps all back in.

crash2 · Nov 2, 2016

Rear housing painted. Just waiting for the correct 3rd to get it assembled

CRAWLERH19 · Nov 3, 2016

Good stuff! That rear housing looks great! :corn:

CRAWLERH19 · Nov 3, 2016

crash said:
Firewall plate and steering shaft all in now. The joint at the base of the steering column has no splines but a set screw. I flattened a spot on the shaft to lock the joint and then welded the joint to the column. The rest of the shaft I drilled shallow holes for the double set screws to bite into and then locked the screw with a nut. Should hold up nicely...

Very clean!

crash2 · Nov 3, 2016

Axle shafts ready.

crash2 · Nov 3, 2016

I was hoping to have the 3rd member in before but I needed to get the rear in and the truck lowered so I can get the arb stuff setup.

CRAWLERH19 · Nov 4, 2016

:corn:

crash2 · Nov 6, 2016

I got the tabs made for the brake lines at the knuckle. I simply used the knuckle removal hole--worked like a champ.

crash2 · Nov 6, 2016

So the stock lower radiator hose would no longer work due to the different neck location. I gave Jason some homework to find the right hose and he nailed it. Once I trimmed the hose it fits perfectly.

crash2 · Nov 6, 2016

So jason wanted the arb compressor mounted in the tool box in the bed of the truck. In order to mount it where it needed I had to make a stud plate since there was no access to the back side to get the bolts thru the box. But got the compressor mounted.

crash2 · Nov 6, 2016

Time to get the arb system wired up. Since the ABS system is no longer I went and dove into the underhood electrical center and re-routed the voltage off the ABS fuse for the arb compressor--keep it super clean. Got the relay mounted and and a portion of the system wired to the firewall.

The little units show no relay needed per instructions but I always prefer to switch the voltage by a relay plus doing it this way gives the option to upgrade the compressor down the road if need be.

crash2 · Nov 6, 2016

Front to rear and compressor wired up.

crash2 · Nov 6, 2016

Air line ran to the compressor.

I have been doing this a long time and I can say 90% of arb failures are due to poor line installation. Also NEVER run the line tight--always leave a loop near the front for "just in case" because the line is most vulnerable at the front diff and having some extra near there will make a trail repair or any repair much simpler and cheaper (than replacing the line).