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The wifes runner

And here is my fix. Exactly 1" extension and used 1.5" material.
 

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So I used one 5/16" bolt and then a small weld on the top side to keep it from acting like a hinge. Got the cable adjusted and works perfect...
 

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So for probably 7 years I had this stuff stored away--factory rear heater. The install was pretty simple and the hardest part was popping the hole thru the floor for the heater core fittings. The center console bolted in place as did the factory hard lines--everything fit lit a champ.

I did however did not have one of the tee's for the heater lines to tie in. I found 1/2" brass water fittings were damn near the right size and made one tee.

I was also missing the factory harness from the dash to the heater and will take care of that later..
 

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So the next part was a good challenge and I wanna say the last one I did was back in the day when NWOR was one of the only places to easily source parts.

So The caps on the joints had KC1720AD which I spent over an hour without being able to cross reference to anything via the web using the number on the cap.

Well I went with application and came up with this part number
Precision #513 and it is a perfect fit.

I had a hard time getting the caps out due to the body hitting not letting the cap work all the way out so I used the welder and a slide hammer. Ya the one joint was a little toast..

So one thing I can say is made certain the needle bearings where pin for the ball rides don't pop out of place--that was the one curve ball I ran into and broke a few of them. Since the ball was in perfect shape I just cut up one of the many CV's I had laying around and used the needle bearings.

Finally got that all done and installed.
 

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Threw the 35's on, got all the fluids filled (just water in the cooling system for now) and got it running and set the timing. It still purrs and not a single leak..
 

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Tore some of the interior stuff apart and got the rear heater wired in. The downside of the heated center console is there is only room for 2 factory switches where there was originally 3. So I extended the wiring for the window lockout switch and there was a blank spot above the radio.

I also added one more security feature--they are not stealing this easily again...
 

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Pulled it out of the shop to get some of the dust washed off and all the mess off the front axle from the motor work.

Wife was pretty happy to see it and I just buzzed it around the yard.

Its getting close to taking it down the road--few more odds/ends...
 

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So the next part was a good challenge and I wanna say the last one I did was back in the day when NWOR was one of the only places to easily source parts.

So The caps on the joints had KC1720AD which I spent over an hour without being able to cross reference to anything via the web using the number on the cap.

Well I went with application and came up with this part number
Precision #513 and it is a perfect fit.

I had a hard time getting the caps out due to the body hitting not letting the cap work all the way out so I used the welder and a slide hammer. Ya the one joint was a little toast..

So one thing I can say is made certain the needle bearings where pin for the ball rides don't pop out of place--that was the one curve ball I ran into and broke a few of them. Since the ball was in perfect shape I just cut up one of the many CV's I had laying around and used the needle bearings.

Finally got that all done and installed.


maybe it does not matter , but it appears you put it back together different than how you took it apart

pic of b4 u took apart
vOrb3aq.jpg


pic of after u put back together
yF1cron.jpg

yF1cron.jpg
 
maybe it does not matter , but it appears you put it back together different than how you took it apart

pic of b4 u took apart
vOrb3aq.jpg


pic of after u put back together
yF1cron.jpg

yF1cron.jpg

I am pretty sure thats upside down in the second photo because its together correctly. There is only one hole in the H and only goes on one way... plus I staked each piece..
 

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