Mo FAB buggy, aka "S#!T Happens"

doctordick said:

How did you "clock" a D300 behind a 700R4? I switched from a 208 to a 300 last year and had to set the 300 in virtually stock position for the front driveshaft to clear the tranny pan (necessitating fabbing up a "belly" to protect the t-case.) Pics please.

Click to expand...

we are using a hanger bearing and a two piece drive shaft to clear the trans pan. we just have the transfer case rolled all the way up so the belly is flat.

here are a few more pictures. sorry, its from my camera phone.

here are a few more.

SHE's comming home this weekend!!!!! damn, now i gotta organize and clean out the garage....

well guys, since i've gotten her home, i havent really done much, got some of the wiring done, for the headlights, fuel pump, fans. this week i'm going to be working on finishing up re-inforcing the lower link brackets and then trying to find a way to protect the exhaust from getting crushed, i think i have a way, just gotta bend some steel to see how it fits. just got a few ?'s.

#1, has anyone run the UHMW for body panels? how does it hold up? easy to put decals and paint? what about cutting it.

#2, i've been thinking about using some diamond plate steel, 3/16" thick for the body panels, anyone have any luck with those? pictures would be great.

#3, how to attach the body panels? rivits, bolts, other ideas?

thanks guys

charles

teardown for full weld this weekend, then start rebuilding her. i cant wait to have her on the trail.

i bought the aluminum skins for a enclosed trailer for my old rig.they are powdercoated on 1 side.welded tabs on the frame then used aluminum rivets.they worked good but was a little thin.

I used some really thin aluminum for a roof one time. Pulled the bolts through going down the road on the trailer. They lasted a few trips but not many.

cool. thanks for the advice guys, i've decided to go with a 3/16 " UHMW plastic. i'm gonna get her this comming weekend, and finally get to start rebuilding!