Cost to build a rear steer 14 bolt

offrd · Apr 20, 2012

Can anybody give me any info on what it might cost to build a rear steer 14 bolt and a good parts list?

TBItoy · Apr 21, 2012

are you doing the labor yourself? or paying someone?

you can pretty much do it as cheap or expensive as you want.

I'd say stock D60 C/knuckles, and Yukon chromos w/ custom cut inners (for 30spline 14 bolt diff) would be the cheapest. And some seal housings for inner axle seals (or Crane Rev. 14 seals)

payne97 · Apr 21, 2012

Give this guy a call he has been doin alot of them

931-635-3255
Ryan

onetoncrawler · Apr 23, 2012

Here is what you can expect if you dont have a donor 60 axle.

this does not include the new tubes (if you replace them) or any machine work.

BUG-E J · Apr 23, 2012

Don't know how much woopow you gonna throw at it but I know a guy that has built a couple of front 14's. He said he saves a ton of money buying yukon chromo blanks and having them splined. Rear axle may not be a good idea to go this route though. For what I've put in my front 60 I coulda almost built a 14! :wtflol:

blacksheep10 · Apr 24, 2012

onetoncrawler said:
Here is what you can expect if you dont have a donor 60 axle.

this does not include the new tubes (if you replace them) or any machine work.

That's cheap too, no labor in there laughing1

If you want to do it cheap, better be able to do it yourself and have a donor 60. My buddy just picked up a D61 to cannibalize for $400. Still expensive, and you'd better know someone with a lathe to turn the C's out to your size. Then you have a stock C that will break eventually with abuse. Can go yukon stuff, but will eventually break with abuse, so go $2k in rcv.
Wait, its not cheap to make a rear steer axle. NM.

I do konw of a rear steer 14 with Ouverson chromo shafts adn rock joints with rock outers adn 14 hubs for sale, only $4k, never ran, ready to go, no steering on it yet. :flipoff1:

matlock · Apr 25, 2012

onetoncrawler said:
Here is what you can expect if you dont have a donor 60 axle.

this does not include the new tubes (if you replace them) or any machine work.

Done this a few times, here's a couple more items to expense for:

Tube(if you retube) is expensive plus machine work @ $300-400
Axle seals $50
pinion guard $50
Caliper brackets $50
Brake lines
Axle truss and link tabs
Wheel studs and allbolts

onetoncrawler · Apr 25, 2012

matlock said:
Done this a few times, here's a couple more items to expense for:

Tube(if you retube) is expensive plus machine work @ $300-400
Axle seals $50
pinion guard $50
Caliper brackets $50
Brake lines
Axle truss and link tabs
Wheel studs and allbolts

Yeah I didn't even get that deep but it all adds up for sure, especially if your paying to have it done. Even the grade 8 1/2-20 bolts are expensive

irondalefj80 · Apr 26, 2012

i looked into it for my buggy, it was around 6k. decided to go with a 60. one day i might have a steer 14 front.... but not in the distant future...

Himmaugh · May 10, 2012

onetoncrawler said:
Here is what you can expect if you dont have a donor 60 axle.

this does not include the new tubes (if you replace them) or any machine work.
can you really get those RCV's for $1900?? I need a set in 300M

onetoncrawler · May 10, 2012

I'm not sure what the price difference is for 300M

Lickliter21 · May 11, 2012

I know there is a lot of contravety over the ball joint axles but I took a 2004 ford 60 and cut the C off put them on a 14 bolt the tube sizes are the same. running 44x18.5x16 tractor tires and a 5.3 with no problem so far.
2004 ford 60 junk yard 150$
14 bolt scrape yard 80$
replines stock axles 125$
wheel adapter 200$
very cheap way of getting into rear steer
the only thing I want to change in the future is going with some 35 spline outers.
but like everone else u can spend as much as you want or as little.
just trying to give some diffrent ideas and ways of thinking

Rockwells607 · May 11, 2012

There was an article on this in the last issue of crawl using the superduty dana 50 and 60 as a donor, says the c's are really beafy on them but have unit bearings and ball joints...i came acrossed one and was thinkin of grabbin it for a donor

gubni · May 11, 2012

The last rear steer axle failure I saw was a balljoint that came apart.

Lickliter21 · May 14, 2012

I was concerned with the unit bearing on the Dana 60 but after looking a what spider trax puts stock one through testing wise I'm not worried. I don't crawl but I'm no rock bouncer either

TOYTOACRAWLERS · Aug 17, 2012

Took us 11.5 months to break a yukon splined blank in the rear of the hitman buggy seen plenty of rcvs break in that yrs time!

Cole · Aug 17, 2012

TOYTOACRAWLERS said:
Took us 11.5 months to break a yukon splined blank in the rear of the hitman buggy seen plenty of rcvs break in that yrs time!

While I agree thats impressive he is also running over 3k worth of aluminum hubs that I believe makes a huge difference.

85toyo · Aug 17, 2012

Cole said:
While I agree thats impressive he is also running over 3k worth of aluminum hubs that I believe makes a huge difference.

I'm not sure what hubs he is using but specs on the BTF aluminum hubs reduce unsprung weight by 24 pounds per axle. Is that really going to keep an axle from breaking or is there something else I'm overlooking?

Cole · Aug 17, 2012

85toyo said:
I'm not sure what hubs he is using but specs on the BTF aluminum hubs reduce unsprung weight by 24 pounds per axle. Is that really going to keep an axle from breaking or is there something else I'm overlooking?

The kit he runs knocks over a 100lbs a piece off each axle, and yes i think it makes a big difference but thats just my Opinion. Travis has the lightest buggy out of the group so that helps also.

85toyo · Aug 17, 2012

Cole said:
The kit he runs knocks over a 100lbs a piece off each axle, and yes i think it makes a big difference but thats just my Opinion. Travis has the lightest buggy out of the group so that helps also.

I agree that 100 per axle could make a big difference. That's some serious weight reduction