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@Dirt700 I don't think you could go wrong with any of them you listed. I have been around a lot of the WOD and Bkor. This is my opinion the WOD seems to be more of trail rig than the bkor.
BKOR makes more of a tame version that is suppose to be a trail rig and WOD makes one that is more race than their normal that you see all the time. I don't know which one is more cost effective. I would like to see some reject stuff. Their 2 seaters look badass.

Personally I do not care about having fancy electronics or super fancy interior. I want utilitarian. Something that works correctly, simple to work on.
 
mine is a RoCkBoUnCeR chassis.... not to be confused with an ULTIMATE ROCKBOUNCER!!!


oh yeah Roger, I almost forgot about Jason! :oops: JDuck chassis are nice as well.

PCR is offering CNC cut chassis kits now on the 2 and new 4 seaters, so for someone like Justin who would be doing most of the finish work himself, that may be the fastest way to get into a new chassis. Lee can have you one pretty quick nowadays...


I have to put in a vote for Partially Committed!! It is my favorite for sure!

Thanks guys -

@Dirt700
I can do CNC cut like mentioned, with shock on axle youll have ~7-8" uptravel up front and around 9-10" out back. Downtravel based on shocks obviously... the travel numbers overall are pretty impressive. You can fit a 16" 2.0 shock on there no problem. this is with a 20" belly. The interior is simple and clean (you've seen Todd's). Can fit up to 30 gallons of fuel, your cooler, your tools and still wheel all day without problems. You can put whatever hood and grill you want on it, there is a 2 seater being built now that will have sheetmetal hood and grill. The chassis is well laid out so you can do whatever you want with it. Full panels, full interior...no need to worry about getting covered in mud or losing your phone out of your pocket.

PM me if you have any questions, I would love to get you set up with a chassis (or a full roller, or a kit anywhere in between)
 
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there are pics of the 4 seater, the 2 seater - both are being built currently. The 4 seater is actually being done as a 3 seater (but its still compact enough that you could do it as a big 2 seater with all the room out back for whatever party supplies you wanted to haul around) and will have steering 14 bolts. 14" 2.5 shocks, 7" uptravel, still have a roof height of 6'1, and have a CJ front clip

2 seater has trailing arms, sheetmetal hood, and basic buggy build from there. We really focused on suspension setup and travel numbers while keeping the hoops low, your visibility is excellent (nothing in your sight line at all), and its comfortable and most importantly...driveable.

Versatility is also huge...we wanted to put out chassis that can be a race car, a trail car, or a lovechild of the two. But most importantly, they are all-day usable and work well. In a couple weeks, we will be starting on an Ultra4 car for an old racer returning to the track. It will be a full race build with some really cool parts. It is a slightly modified version of the 2 seater...but only to fit some extra race requirements...that chassis and suspension will be the same one that the normal chassis has.
 
@Dirt700 I don't think you could go wrong with any of them you listed. I have been around a lot of the WOD and Bkor. This is my opinion the WOD seems to be more of trail rig than the bkor.
BKOR makes more of a tame version that is suppose to be a trail rig and WOD makes one that is more race than their normal that you see all the time. I don't know which one is more cost effective. I would like to see some reject stuff. Their 2 seaters look badass.

Personally I do not care about having fancy electronics or super fancy interior. I want utilitarian. Something that works correctly, simple to work on.
I'm the same on simplicity, it would have basic interior like mine now. I thought about calling Holt and talking about doing one with a little more interior and a few more things than the race buggies he builds. I have to finish my house first, OR find someone to buy my chassis
 
Thanks guys -

@Dirt700
I can do CNC cut like mentioned, with shock on axle youll have ~7-8" uptravel up front and around 9-10" out back. Downtravel based on shocks obviously... the travel numbers overall are pretty impressive. You can fit a 16" 2.0 shock on there no problem. this is with a 20" belly. The interior is simple and clean (you've seen Todd's). Can fit up to 30 gallons of fuel, your cooler, your tools and still wheel all day without problems. You can put whatever hood and grill you want on it, there is a 2 seater being built now that will have sheetmetal hood and grill. The chassis is well laid out so you can do whatever you want with it. Full panels, full interior...no need to worry about getting covered in mud or losing your phone out of your pocket.

PM me if you have any questions, I would love to get you set up with a chassis (or a full roller, or a kit anywhere in between)
I will shoot you a pm. When are y'all riding again, I would like to check out Todd's buggy a little better.
 
I'm the same on simplicity, it would have basic interior like mine now. I thought about calling Holt and talking about doing one with a little more interior and a few more things than the race buggies he builds. I have to finish my house first, OR find someone to buy my chassis
Something that makes mine easy to work on is the removable subframe cross members. I'm out on pulling a trans through the window.
 
Something that makes mine easy to work on is the removable subframe cross members. I'm out on pulling a trans through the window.

our trans and tcase can come out either the bottom or the top. I pulled the motor out of my personal buggy without even taking a bolt out of the interior. Did the same with the tcase before as well.

Todd has pulled his trans, tcase, and motor all the same way.

They are built to be a trail rig that takes all of the stuff we have learned to like / hate ... and applied to a chassis. They can get full exhaust, full skid, they are easy to see out of, they are easy to work on, they are easy to build, they are easy to repair...
 
our trans and tcase can come out either the bottom or the top. I pulled the motor out of my personal buggy without even taking a bolt out of the interior. Did the same with the tcase before as well.

Todd has pulled his trans, tcase, and motor all the same way.

They are built to be a trail rig that takes all of the stuff we have learned to like / hate ... and applied to a chassis. They can get full exhaust, full skid, they are easy to see out of, they are easy to work on, they are easy to build, they are easy to repair...
Yall did one with minimal body yet?
 
Yall did one with minimal body yet?

what do you mean by minimal? Like no skins at all? or just one without a fiberglass hood?

The 2 seater being built in KY right now is getting a sheetmetal hood...it will be pretty minimal, but they for the most part have full skins, at least to the B pillar. Thats part of what makes them so comfortable and driveable is that you are in it...you arent getting hit by mud and dirt and rocks, you can set something on the seat and its not going to fall out onto the ground.

The way the front end of the chassis is, it would be extremely simple to build whatever style hood/front end tubework and skinwork you wanted to. Another part of the design... less is more. We dont just throw tube at it becuase there is no tube somewhere. everything is noded and built together, but its pretty simple and wide open for whatever styling you wanted to add to it.

To give you a better idea, the bronco buggy we have here is the same main cabin base chassis design as the CNC. The CNC has a few small differences, but the CNC is the child of the bronco buggy. The front and rear of the bronco is obviously different...but the base chassis design is pretty close to the same
 
what do you mean by minimal? Like no skins at all? or just one without a fiberglass hood?

The 2 seater being built in KY right now is getting a sheetmetal hood...it will be pretty minimal, but they for the most part have full skins, at least to the B pillar. Thats part of what makes them so comfortable and driveable is that you are in it...you arent getting hit by mud and dirt and rocks, you can set something on the seat and its not going to fall out onto the ground.

The way the front end of the chassis is, it would be extremely simple to build whatever style hood/front end tubework and skinwork you wanted to. Another part of the design... less is more. We dont just throw tube at it becuase there is no tube somewhere. everything is noded and built together, but its pretty simple and wide open for whatever styling you wanted to add to it.

To give you a better idea, the bronco buggy we have here is the same main cabin base chassis design as the CNC. The CNC has a few small differences, but the CNC is the child of the bronco buggy. The front and rear of the bronco is obviously different...but the base chassis design is pretty close to the same
Yeah like some type of skins but no fiberglass. The fiberglass looks awesome but i would be sick if I ruined it.
 
Yeah like some type of skins but no fiberglass. The fiberglass looks awesome but i would be sick if I ruined it.

Yea that would be very easy to build out. its also not as fragile as you would think, honestly. Its pretty flexible - it will crack or tear if you really smash it into stuff hard, but just leaning it into a tree or rolling over wont break it into a million pieces. Its also fiberglass, so its easy to fix up - Todd just fixed all his up from the past 2 years of beatings and it took no time

Here is a pic of mine after taking a direct shot in a rollover. You can even see it bent and smooshed in the 2nd pic. Nothing but a scratch...a sheetmetal hood would have been 100% done.

But nonetheless, a sheetmetal hood would go on there no problem if you wanted it to and built out the front stinger tubework to support it
 

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So much west coast in slravenel's chassis! I like it, nice and clean.
Now.. to really rock crawler it up.. shrink it down, stuff some portals on yota axles under it and let's go we rock it up lol!
 
So much west coast in slravenel's chassis! I like it, nice and clean.
Now.. to really rock crawler it up.. shrink it down, stuff some portals on yota axles under it and let's go we rock it up lol!

Its 48" at the cowl (my red one is... the CNC ones are 54") how much smaller can it get :ROFLMAO:

But yea, they carry alot of the west coast style to them, but they are built to take an east coast beating!
 
Its 48" at the cowl (my red one is... the CNC ones are 54") how much smaller can it get :ROFLMAO:

But yea, they carry alot of the west coast style to them, but they are built to take an east coast beating!
Cut the nose down.. cuz it only needs a 3.9 or j35 in there, cut the back down throw a 5 gallon tank in there and make the wheelbase 108ish.. think of it like a woman.. they always want to loose weight
 
Cut the nose down.. cuz it only need a 3.9 cut the back down throw a 5 gallon tank in there and make the wheelbase 108ish.. think of it like a woman.. they always want to loose weight

you should see the twin to mine then...its exactly like you are saying its the grey and black one on our instagram page.
 
tiny fuel cell, no extra tubework, 5.3 motor, 39" tires, now has 9"s front and rear, 2.0 shocks

camera angle makes mine look funny in this pic... its not choady and stubby like it looks here for some reason :ROFLMAO:

but his looks good!
 

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