Re-venge YJ Tons Swap

The Luke · Feb 19, 2021

Beerj said:
I too, am guilty of rushing through wiring. When I built this jeep, I wasn't in a big hurry and also realized that I could make my life easier by adding a bus bar in the engine bay. That way, any time I need to change anything, I don't have to dig into the consol

I did a little waterproof fuse block in the engine bay. I need to go through and label the lid so I know what is what. One huge benefit it has is that it has an indicator light that goes off whenever a few blows. So that's super helpful.

Beerj · Feb 19, 2021

The Luke said:
I did a little waterproof fuse block in the engine bay. I need to go through and label the lid so I know what is what. One huge benefit it has is that it has an indicator light that goes off whenever a few blows. So that's super helpful.

That would be nice to have. I used different colored wires for all of the circuits but usually forget what goes to what.

The Luke · Feb 19, 2021

Beerj said:
That would be nice to have. I used different colored wires for all of the circuits but usually forget what goes to what.

That's exactly my issue. Here's a link to similar to what I used....

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F3CX7B3/?tag=hardlinecrawlers-20

I've also had good luck with these distribution blocks whenever I do an LS harness...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MR64XK1/?tag=hardlinecrawlers-20

Bebop · Feb 19, 2021

GEP makes some cool products that are waterproof and tiny.

Beerj · Feb 21, 2021

Not much of anything to show except now I know why so many people just go 3 link on the front of jeeps. That orange string is tied to the top of the yokes. Can't tell in the pic but there's about ¾" between it and the bottom of the upper link mount. I'm almost certainly using the top hole so I should be able to cut out and brace the lower and middle holes. I'll probably know better when I drop it to full bump. Also could run a carrier bearing and that would also mean I won't have to modify the skid, which will get redone when I upgrade the tcase anyway.

Beerj · Feb 21, 2021

That close clearance spot is almost exactly at the middle of the driveshaft too, so looking at about 3" of up travel from the shaft right there but that also depends on how the pinion will change too.

Beerj · Feb 28, 2021

Making a little progress. Chopped up one of the chassis side brackets to hopefully clear the driveshaft. Then realized that the torque converter was too close to let the bolt go in so figured it would just have to go in from the outside.

Beerj · Feb 28, 2021

After that, I dropped her to full bump. Couldn't go down quite as much as I wanted but this height works better for things like driveshaft and link clearance. Still only have about 1" between the truss and frame. Need to pick up a torch set to weld the housing to the tube on the driver's side so I'm at a standstill on the front. Thinking I'm probably going to chop off the rear frame today. Or maybe start on the front shock hoops.

Beerj · Feb 28, 2021

"What happened? Well, the back fell off."

Zjman · Mar 1, 2021

Looks bad ass at full bump. You do good work man

ridered3 · Mar 1, 2021

Beerj said:
"What happened? Well, the back fell off."
View attachment 122657

Thanks to your quote, this is now playing in my head...

Beerj · Mar 1, 2021

Zjman said:
Looks bad ass at full bump. You do good work man

Thanks man. Really wish I could get the uptravel from there.

Beerj · Mar 1, 2021

ridered3 said:
Thanks to your quote, this is now playing in my head...

Glad someone caught that

Beerj · Mar 1, 2021

Got 1 side about fitted up. Just need to match the other and burn it all in. Of course, there'll be plenty of fish plates too.

bgredjeep · Mar 1, 2021

Beerj said:
Thanks man. Really wish I could get the uptravel from there.

Yeah, it's a lot of extra work clearing the way for more up travel in front.

Beerj · Mar 1, 2021

bgredjeep said:
Yeah, it's a lot of extra work clearing the way for more up travel in front.

For sure. In my case, it'd mean changing the motor mounts, chopping off the frame above the axle and dealing with a nightmare of a driveshaft. And even then, it'd drag everywhere since it would only have an 18" belly. I imagine once she wads up this body, I'll just swap everthing to a tube chassis and make it all "better" anyhow.

On a productive note, got the other side built in the back. Got the wife running out tomorrow for another piece of steel to go across the back and then I should be able to weld it all up.

Beerj · Mar 5, 2021

Beerj · Mar 5, 2021

Beerj · Mar 6, 2021

Front and rear links done. Guess I'll start on mounting the shocks. Rears will poke through the top of the wheel wells so they'll just tie into the cage.

Full droop vs full bump