Anyone here with a 2JZ-GTE vvti swap?

Waffle · Jul 11, 2021

Its a long shot but what the hell. Trying to help out a friend with a pickup/2jz swap, specifically the main wiring circuits to/from the ECU & building a standalone fuse block for one. There's just so much garbage on the net and it appears nearly everyone just applies 12v+ to **** and sends it.
All I have for internet at the moment is my phone, so I'm just about useless.

Anyone here done this specific swap and willing to answer a few questions?

Waffle · Jul 11, 2021

Swap is probably 50% completed at this point. Engine/clutch/flywheel is in and cases are all 23 spline with 4.3 gears in the 2nd one. Winch is in. Intercooler & IC plumbing are next. Radiator will go in the back. Lots of odds & ends to complete but it's slowly getting there.

Bebop · Jul 12, 2021

Standalone not an option ?

Waffle · Jul 12, 2021

Bebop said:
Standalone not an option ?

He doesn't want to spend $1000+ for one. I think it's a good investment myself since it'll show up with a new panel, new wire and new connectors, but he's isn't willing.

His issue is compounded because he has a JDM spec 2JZ and he's trying to wire it up thru a cut Aristo body harness. All schematics are in Japanese and the directions people give are horrific.

They'll say things like "switched power here and there" but fail to tell you what amperage rating the fuse & relay should be, or they'll just make no mention of them altogether.

Waffle · Jul 12, 2021

For instance.......I recently watched a 20min Youtube vid from a guy who claimed to tell you everything one needed to know and he made it because he was sick of piecing together stuff from everyone else's bad info, yet he only mentions ONE fuse in the entire vid, and no mention of relays at all. No mention of flowpath (ie: on a 2JZ the efi relay is turned on/off by the ecu itself).

To top it all off I'm trying to do this using my phone that gets poor service the moment I walk into his garage.

I Bow Out!

TBItoy · Jul 12, 2021

Yep, sounds like he did the easy and fun part of the engine swap and isn't ready to put in the effort for the suck parts. Plus engine choice...

Waffle · Jul 12, 2021

I tried talking him into an LS but he wasn't having it.

TBItoy · Jul 12, 2021

I used to try to talk people out of 2JZ swaps too. But I don't personally know anyone that got past the parts gathering phase.

Bebop · Jul 12, 2021

Waffle said:
He doesn't want to spend $1000+ for one. I think it's a good investment myself since it'll show up with a new panel, new wire and new connectors, but he's isn't willing.

His issue is compounded because he has a JDM spec 2JZ and he's trying to wire it up thru a cut Aristo body harness. All schematics are in Japanese and the directions people give are horrific.

They'll say things like "switched power here and there" but fail to tell you what amperage rating the fuse & relay should be, or they'll just make no mention of them altogether.

Seems to me that he's finding out why people get standalone stuff.

gs300tt · Jul 13, 2021

See if these will help

Wmikew06 · Jul 13, 2021

I know you said he didn't want to go stand alone, but ecu masters makes a kick ass plug and play adaptor.

Waffle · Jul 13, 2021

gs300tt said:
See if these will help

I'll look at em and see if I can eliminate some roadblocks. Looks like I can based on what I see so far, then perhaps I can narrow it down to something more manageable. Thanks.

Waffle · Jul 13, 2021

Wmikew06 said:
I know you said he didn't want to go stand alone, but ecu masters makes a kick ass plug and play adaptor.

Yeah, plug n play directly into their aftermarket ECU. That's even more than a harness. I get what your saying though. I do.

One thing in particular that I cannot stand about the 2JZ-GTE vvti ECU is that non of it is waterproof. Not the ECU or any of its 5 plugs, so it all gets mounted inside a seperate Aristo ECU box behind the drivers headlight. Talk about a tight fit, lol. I would have liked to see him go aftermarket for this reason alone.

Waffle · Jul 14, 2021

I think gs300tt triggered something with those schematics cause I think I'm starting to understand the big picture here.
I looked them over quite a bit, went back over the wilbo666 site and looked closely at a standalone vvti harness

I'm fairly certain I can wire power to the engine and Tweakd fuel pump controller (if Tweakd uses 20a relay, not 35a, dnt kno yet) using a 280 GEP 24 position waterproof pdm. This gives me space to hardwire two 35a relays, one 20a relay and 4 mini fuses into the smallest possible footprint.

1 30a fuse to protect EFI relay 1 and supply constant power to ECU
1 35a relay for EFI 1 circuit
1 30a fuse to protect EFI relay 2
1 35a relay for EFI 2 circuit
1 15a fuse to protect ETCS-i circuit
1 XXX fuse to protect fuel pump relay
1 XXX relay to control fuel pump

Screenshot_20210714-024845_Samsung Internet.jpg

Waffle · Jul 14, 2021

This is the 2JZ-GTE vvti pinout. To power the engine you'll be messing with the two right side connectors only. F59 and F60. Thank goodness this swap is a 5speed and I'll be able to remove a crazy number of automatic pins.

Waffle · Jul 14, 2021

Only one pin on the F59 connector requires work. STA is the starter signal input pin. Connect this directly to the small plug on the starter coil so the ECU knows when the engine is attempting to start.

Waffle · Jul 14, 2021

F60 pin 1, BATT, input. This gets constant 12v+ for ECU memory. Power to this pin comes from the 30a efi 1 fuse.

Waffle · Jul 14, 2021

F60 pin 7, +BM, input, This pin gets constant 12v+ from a 15a fuse to power the ETCS-i
(Electronic Throttle Control System)

Waffle · Jul 14, 2021

F60 pin 8, +B2, input, EFI main relay switched power input, this pin gets 12v+ switched from 35a EFI relay 1 when relay is energised. Note: EFI relay is triggered by 12v+ pin 10 M-REL, use 30a fuse to protect relay