Strong antiwrap setup...pics

Paulie · Apr 27, 2006

i need a proven anti wrap setup that will hold abuse. ive had present failures of them not working correctly. need to have one setup right with the help of you guys. one question i have, should i make the upper link total flat. sort of like a link setup.

ive been thinking this setup but i need one thats strong and want breaking u-joints will be least of my worrys.

crash2 · Apr 27, 2006

1)use strong materials
2)as much seperation at the housing as possable
3)try to follow the slope of the leafs
4)Build solid mount at the frame
5)use a shackle on the fame side

If you live by these basics it will do fine...

Travis1 · Apr 27, 2006

have any pics of mine you built Mike? I haven't been able to break it yet.

IIRC, it was 1.25"x.250, just so happened the ID was perfect for a 3/4-18(?) tap.

Then did a SCD40x2" cross member welded to frame on each side, with a shackle setup to mount the ladder bar.

3/4" heims were used.

crash2 · Apr 27, 2006

Travis said:
have any pics of mine you built Mike? I haven't been able to break it yet.

IIRC, it was 1.25"x.250, just so happened the ID was perfect for a 3/4-18(?) tap.

Then did a SCD40x2" cross member welded to frame on each side, with a shackle setup to mount the ladder bar.

3/4" heims were used.

All that stuff was lost when my HD crashed early last year..

I also gotta get pics for the cj8 I built--did an upgraded version in that because the owner was a right footer and its still holding up aok :redneck:

Paulie · Apr 27, 2006

i need pics guys.

Paulie · Apr 28, 2006

ok mike i dont mean to dig at your brain buddy. so when i do the shackle set up, should it look like this, standing up.

also when you say seperation at the housing, you mean using tall towers for the upper mount. not sure if i understand you on that one

Cascade_Crawler · Apr 28, 2006

Paulie said:
ok mike i dont mean to dig at your brain buddy. so when i do the shackle set up, should it look like this, standing up.

also when you say seperation at the housing, you mean using tall towers for the upper mount. not sure if i understand you on that one

Hey Paul in no expert but I did a lot of readin on this awhile ago and I think I can answer these...

The shackle should be standing up like pictured, but move the bar and everything to the passenger side. The more seperation on the axle end gets you more leverage on the axle, more leverage = good. Make the upper mount as tall as you can so you can have the lower mount not be a root catcher. Someone posted a minumum seperation measurement on SNORT I think...

iceman1 · Apr 28, 2006

you can also use a slip yoke from a drive line instead of those shackles.........thats what I did.....just a thought...

Travis1 · Apr 28, 2006

XJonathan said:
but move the bar and everything to the passenger side.

NOOOO!!!!!!!

Passenger side is BAD... I get UGLY body lean from torque when I have the traction. Enough to pull the drivers front tire over a foot off the ground when things start binding up.

Consesus seems to be that drivers side is the best side to have it on.

Toyotanut · Apr 28, 2006

Couldn't you put one one each side or would that be counter productive and too much added weight?

CrustyJeep · Apr 28, 2006

Travis said:
NOOOO!!!!!!!

Passenger side is BAD... I get UGLY body lean from torque when I have the traction. Enough to pull the drivers front tire over a foot off the ground when things start binding up.

Consesus seems to be that drivers side is the best side to have it on.

WRONG WRONG WRONG!!! You got it backwards Travis... Driver side is bad. Put it on the passenger side.

If you put it on the driver's side, it will *increase* torque lean.

CrustyJeep · Apr 28, 2006

crash said:
1)use strong materials
2)as much seperation at the housing as possable
3)try to follow the slope of the leafs
4)Build solid mount at the frame
5)use a shackle on the fame side

This is good.

I would just add, PASSENGER SIDE, always :flipoff: Fawk the exhaust, put the wrap bar where it belongs, and make the exhaust fit, not the other way around. Priorities, man :flipoff:

And use good heavy tube on the bottom so you don't have to worry about fawking it up on the rocks. The upper tube can be a lot thinner.

Put the lower axle mount point as low as possible without dropping it below the bottom of the axle. You want the best geometry you can get, but you don't want a rock magnet.

The bar shouldn't be too short. The shorter the bar, the more force it will apply to the frame, and the more anti-squat (and torque lean, although if you keep it close to axle center that shouldn't be a problem) it will cause. I think it will cause wheel hop, too. 40 inches, maybe?

CrustyJeep · Apr 28, 2006

Toyotanut said:
Couldn't you put one one each side or would that be counter productive and too much added weight?

That should, in theory, provide equal anti-squat, but it wouldn't do anything to counteract natural torque lean. Counter productive I think. Torque lean is bad, getting rid of it is good.

Paulie · Apr 28, 2006

CrustyJeep said:
This is good.

I would just add, PASSENGER SIDE, always :flipoff: Fawk the exhaust, put the wrap bar where it belongs, and make the exhaust fit, not the other way around. Priorities, man :flipoff:

And use good heavy tube on the bottom so you don't have to worry about fawking it up on the rocks. The upper tube can be a lot thinner.

Put the lower axle mount point as low as possible without dropping it below the bottom of the axle. You want the best geometry you can get, but you don't want a rock magnet.

The bar shouldn't be too short. The shorter the bar, the more force it will apply to the frame, and the more anti-squat (and torque lean, although if you keep it close to axle center that shouldn't be a problem) it will cause. I think it will cause wheel hop, too. 40 inches, maybe?

thank you crusty. i was gonna make the lower link go to the upper link acouple inches away from the heim. i got the idea now

heepofajeep · May 3, 2006

CrustyJeep said:
WRONG WRONG WRONG!!! You got it backwards Travis... Driver side is bad. Put it on the passenger side.

If you put it on the driver's side, it will *increase* torque lean.

Yup, passenger's side. We put one on the driver's side & it has bad torque-lean.

Tankota · May 3, 2006

Toyotanut said:
Couldn't you put one one each side or would that be counter productive and too much added weight?

By that time you might as well ditch the shackles and the leafsprings and throw a couple of coil springs in there and a panhard rod. Just one seems to work fine for me...and it's on the drivers side.

JOOP · May 3, 2006

I should barrow my mom's miniDVD and video my torque steering. It's pretty scary for on coming traffic when I shift and give it gas. But I also found having the tires air'd up a bit more (28psi) helps kill the lean.

CrustyJeep · May 5, 2006

JOOP said:
I should barrow my mom's miniDVD and video my torque steering. It's pretty scary for on coming traffic when I shift and give it gas. But I also found having the tires air'd up a bit more (28psi) helps kill the lean.

I think in your case your suffering from rear steer also. Your springs are very arched at ride height (one of the evils of SUA lifts), so torque lean = rear steer, in addition to bump steer up front.

Paulie · May 6, 2006

Bump this back up. so today i built brackets for my antiwrap bar. my concern is John stated that having the antiwrap bar be as long as it can be, Leverage wise. well today i measured out mine and i cant make it pass the stock crossmember below my cab at the back. so my antiwrap setup is gonna be about 3ft. long. that to short.