Strong antiwrap setup...pics

heepofajeep · May 7, 2006

Paulie said:
Bump this back up. so today i built brackets for my antiwrap bar. my concern is John stated that having the antiwrap bar be as long as it can be, Leverage wise. well today i measured out mine and i cant make it pass the stock crossmember below my cab at the back. so my antiwrap setup is gonna be about 3ft. long. that to short.

That should be fine. the one I put in a YJ was about 36".

One thing that I am not sure of, is what angle to put the bar at... It definitely gives a lot of antisquat in the YJ I was referring to. There was a thread on POR to that affect, so it is just something to keep in the back of your head. I would assume you want to keep the bar relatively parallel to the frame if possible, which is a bit of a trick since you will have to put the shackle facing 'up' also.

Either way, it probably doesn't matter too much, because it is such a vast improvement over a simple leaf setup.

Paulie · May 8, 2006

said screw it, im gonna link the rear this week.

darius · May 8, 2006

Paulie said:
said screw it, im gonna link the rear this week.

So what's the deal are you gonna get that thing out anytime soon, or have you already had it out yet?

Paulie · May 8, 2006

i can drive it now but the rear end wraps. i basically have most of the stuff to link it (coils, the lower links, bushings, brackets) im debating on doing it. with my antiwrap bar i can see the shackle design definetly not working. the upp link would almost be at a 45*. about to try that slip style anti-wrap setup.

darius · May 9, 2006

Paulie said:
i can drive it now but the rear end wraps. i basically have most of the stuff to link it (coils, the lower links, bushings, brackets) im debating on doing it. with my antiwrap bar i can see the shackle design definetly not working. the upp link would almost be at a 45*. about to try that slip style anti-wrap setup.

Jesus if it's at that steep of an angle then how tall is you're truck?

Paulie · May 9, 2006

set lower than my cousins roomates truck on 36s. truck is low but the rear tower for the upper link is about 4" from eye to top of the diff, came close to hitting the shock. Now considering Linkin the rear...might be at your shop tomarrow or weds Darius

Kelly · May 9, 2006

20 bucks it doesn't make it to Naches on Memorial day :flipoff:

Paulie · May 9, 2006

Kelly said:
20 bucks it doesn't make it to Naches on Memorial day :flipoff:

$40 for a tug when your 44 explodes or a 38 goes rolling back to the trailer.:flipoff:

Kelly · May 9, 2006

Paulie said:
$40 for a tug when your 44 explodes or a 38 goes rolling back to the trailer.:flipoff:

Like your turd could even pull my rig anywhere :flipoff:

Paulie · May 9, 2006

that right there is the sad part....Might not even to be able to crawl around Naches.

Looks like im gonna have a bill with Marlin Crawler

Big_MARK · May 9, 2006

Travis said:
NOOOO!!!!!!!

Passenger side is BAD... I get UGLY body lean from torque when I have the traction. Enough to pull the drivers front tire over a foot off the ground when things start binding up.

Consesus seems to be that drivers side is the best side to have it on.

Seemed to me the consensus is to have it on the pass side.

Lincolnlock · May 10, 2006

Here are some pics of mine. Put it on the passenger side and keep at least 8 inchs of seporation at the axle.

http://rage4x4.com/forum/index.php?topic=1356.0

heepofajeep · May 10, 2006

Paulie said:
said screw it, im gonna link the rear this week.

Lol, that's what we ended up doing on the last project.

Paulie · May 10, 2006

Lincolnlock said:
Here are some pics of mine. Put it on the passenger side and keep at least 8 inchs of seporation at the axle.

http://rage4x4.com/forum/index.php?topic=1356.0

i seen that thread before, i like your setup man. so you run the rear 70, what did you do for the rear disk brackets. i can find a vender that sell just the brakets.

Bunk1 · May 10, 2006

Kelly said:
20 bucks it doesn't make it to Naches on Memorial day :flipoff:

I'll go $100.

Paulie · May 11, 2006

Shut up fags...Only thing is my surgery and having a tow.

Lincolnlock · May 11, 2006

The brackets are weld on. I had to make some 1/2 inch spacers to go under the brackets but that is what everyone does. The calipers and rotors are 1977 GM 3/4 ton fronts. It's super cheap and easy. Here is the link for the brackets. $12.50 each. :redneck:

http://www.rocklogic4x4.com/store/index.php?action=category&id=20