1310 vs 1330

Money Mark · Feb 20, 2009

What is this fascination with power braking? I don't get it.....:eeek: This is why we have CUTTING BRAKES guys.

I have a completely dry front 1350 joint in my font driveline (at diff). It squeaks like a bitch and it's STILL holding strong.

What was the point of this thread again? :redneck:

Not Jobless · Feb 20, 2009

I still run 1310's front and rear...they're like any other part on the rig, they hold up fine so long as they're maintained.

benw1 · Feb 20, 2009

Jackazz said:
I still run 1310's front and rear...they're like any other part on the rig, they hold up fine so long as they're maintained.

X2.

I've got 1310s all around with 160:1 gearing and never broken one due to torque. I've never tried to power brake in 2wd 1st low low though.

nevada · Feb 20, 2009

why not get bolt on yokes? harder to change the joints, but alot stronger....:stirpot:

:corn:

Cascade_Crawler · Feb 20, 2009

nevada said:
why not get bolt on yokes? harder to change the joints, but alot stronger....:stirpot:

:corn:

can you provide some proof that they are a lot stronger?

crash2 · Feb 20, 2009

Cascade_Crawler said:
can you provide some proof that they are a lot stronger?

Sure they are--think about it..

No u-bolts or straps around the u-joint cap.

I run 1310's in the front and never had a problem. But I have very lil angle on the front joint. I run 1350's in the rear due to the steeper angle on the shaft.

darius · Feb 20, 2009

crash said:
I run 1350's in the rear due to the steeper angle on the shaft.

This statement makes no sence.

crash2 · Feb 20, 2009

darius said:
This statement makes no sence.

Bigger joint for more strength--- You can't tell me a joint working at a greater angle is weaker than at a less of an angle?

Boonie Buster · Feb 20, 2009

crash said:
Bigger joint for more strength--- You can't tell me a joint working at a greater angle is weaker than at a less of an angle?

i think you said that backwards... :eeek:

darius · Feb 20, 2009

crash said:
Bigger joint for more strength--- You can't tell me a joint working at a greater angle is weaker than at a less of an angle?

Well I guess you can read that 2 way's. If you are trying to achieve dl travel, 1350 has the least movement of them all. If bind isn't the issue then of course your better off.

crash2 · Feb 20, 2009

darius said:
Well I guess you can read that 2 way's. If you are trying to achieve dl travel, 1350 has the least movement of them all. If bind isn't the issue then of course your better off.

Oh no--bind is not an issue--well at least not in 4 years. But I agree you can read that both ways.

CHOP SHOP · Feb 20, 2009

Boonie Buster said:
i think you said that backwards... :eeek:

Just tellem boonie! get a toyota d shaft and be done with it.:beer:

crash2 · Feb 20, 2009

CHOP SHOP said:
Just tellem boonie! get a toyota d shaft and be done with it.:beer:

I find that funny--coming from you brad.

CHOP SHOP · Feb 20, 2009

crash said:
I find that funny--coming from you brad.

Why funny? they are superior to 1310s and 1350s.

Massive angle tolerance too. Remember boonies 1350 angle escapade.

I have yet to kill a toyota joint that still had grease in it.

I have a v8 in my wheeler and kept the toyotas tcase to make it easier to keep toy flanges in it.

Ever time they replace a toyota shaft on 4x4tv with a tom woods dana conversion shaft it pukes first thing out.

I have a $150+ CV on the bench right now that was a toyota to dana1310 conversion ( you know to get that strong spicer CV in your toyota!!).

Its from hiangle and is junk. torn apart by a beast of a 20r!!!!:beer:

1410 or toyota for me. Never could keep a 1310 or1350 joint in the stomper and it has absolutly NO angle on it.:beer:

CHOP SHOP · Feb 20, 2009

Oh yeah, Mine was a tossup. It would either spit the ujoint or just split the GM yoke in half. No pattern to either.:booo:

WATCH THAT VIDEO OF THE STOMPER ON THE HOME PAGE, If you listen at the end you can hear a 1350 die right when the roost comes of the front tires!!

RIP 1350:booo:

crash2 · Feb 20, 2009

CHOP SHOP said:
Why funny? they are superior to 1310s and 1350s.

Massive angle tolerance too. Remember boonies 1350 angle escapade.

I have yet to kill a toyota joint that still had grease in it.

I have a v8 in my wheeler and kept the toyotas tcase to make it easier to keep toy flanges in it.

Ever time they replace a toyota shaft on 4x4tv with a tom woods dana conversion shaft it pukes first thing out.

I have a $150+ CV on the bench right now that was a toyota to dana1310 conversion ( you know to get that strong spicer CV in your toyota!!).

Its from hiangle and is junk. torn apart by a beast of a 20r!!!!:beer:

1410 or toyota for me. Never could keep a 1310 or1350 joint in the stomper and it has absolutly NO angle on it.:beer:

Here ios why--you are a cheap person--you would go and spend $400 on flanges to run toy shafts :haha:

CHOP SHOP · Feb 20, 2009

crash said:
Here ios why--you are a cheap person--you would go and spend $400 on flanges to run toy shafts :haha:

Seems better than buying shafts all the time.

Some **** is nessesary, cheap or not.

Any one with a drill can put a toy flanged yoke on chev tcase out put flange.

I even used some 1410 AG shaft flanges that were in the srcrap for the stomper.:awesomework:

crash2 · Feb 20, 2009

CHOP SHOP said:
Seems better than buying shafts all the time.

Some **** is nessesary, cheap or not.

Any one with a drill can put a toy flanged yoke on chev tcase out put flange.

I even used some 1410 AG shaft flanges that were in the srcrap for the stomper.:awesomework:

Who are you talking to? I have not blown a joint.

SHow me and axample of there you just have to "drill" to make this combo work?

I am familure with a dana/toy flange--I had them on my 44.

CHOP SHOP · Feb 20, 2009

crash said:
Who are you talking to? I have not blown a joint.

SHow me and axample of there you just have to "drill" to make this combo work?

I am familure with a dana/toy flange--I had them on my 44.

If you want it perfect then you need to remachine a centering ring on both flanges. I just ground off one till it was flush on mine and matched up both flanges, tacked them together till done, and used a transfer punch to locate the new pattern. ground off the tacks and drilled itout and bolted it all together. I have used flanges from dodges, chevs, 205s 203s. any with the square flange. sometimes I have to swap seals to work with the new output flange.

The square domestic flanges as well as toy ones can be welded on too. if needed you could weld a 3/8 plate circle to it and drill as large a pattern needed! I have never needed to do that though.

As soon as I get some Bfast in my gut I will snap a few pics of some of my scrap parts.:beer:

nevada · Feb 20, 2009

Cascade_Crawler said:
can you provide some proof that they are a lot stronger?

i didnt wanna mention the T word, and get everyones panties in a bunch, and start a pissing match, but, since chopshop did...here we go:fawkdancesmiley:

theres a reason they make bolt-on flanges fo D60's, so u can run a toyota u-joint:awesomework:
a toyota joint/flange IS stronger than the d60 stuff.