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Badride
Guest
Don't really matter. No matter what size, you have to turn the ends down to press into the center section.
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Help Support Hardline Crawlers :
14 bolt front build thread and tech help
- Thread starter redneckengineered
- Start date
TBItoy
Well-Known Member
Re:
If it were me, I'd run 4".
Leave some stubs of stock tube in the junkyard housing, machine the 4" tube to a press fit over the stock tube stub...
Of course depending on what your stock tube size/thickness is...
If it were me, I'd run 4".
Leave some stubs of stock tube in the junkyard housing, machine the 4" tube to a press fit over the stock tube stub...
Of course depending on what your stock tube size/thickness is...
redneckengineered
Trailer Park Panty Dropper
Re:
Just talked to the guy I bought the axle from since I don't have it in hand yet. It's 3 3/8" tube in it now, and opening at the center is virtually the same he said.
TBItoy said:
Just talked to the guy I bought the axle from since I don't have it in hand yet. It's 3 3/8" tube in it now, and opening at the center is virtually the same he said.
redneckengineered
Trailer Park Panty Dropper
**** it, I'm going to get the 4" and make it work.
T
traveler
Guest
Re:
if you do it this way you have designed a weak link in it but hey you are smarter than meTBItoy said:
redneckengineered
Trailer Park Panty Dropper
Re:
I assume you would want to sleeve the entire length so as not to create a leverage point.
traveler said:
I assume you would want to sleeve the entire length so as not to create a leverage point.
T
traveler
Guest
don't matter what you do on outside its only 1/4" on the inside
redneckengineered
Trailer Park Panty Dropper
traveler said:
Hrm, ok don't know WTF you're talking because guys have been sleeving **** for strength for about forever but alrighty.
Anyway, I told Reid to just ship the 4". Another option would be to track down one of these beasts and forget the whole sleeve/machining process. I didn't know these existed
http://www.hardlinecrawlers.com/forums/index.php?topic=51637.msg599740#msg599740
T
traveler
Guest
your right I probably don't know anything about a 14 bolt
redneckengineered
Trailer Park Panty Dropper
traveler said:
I'm aware of your credentials and don't doubt that you know what you're talking about. It would be nice though for you to offer more specific details and be helpful instead of vague criticism and smugness. This is a home build though and you're not getting any business out of it so maybe you don't want to divulge any "trade secrets"
T
traveler
Guest
I will take that as a **** you you don't need any help
redneckengineered
Trailer Park Panty Dropper
traveler said:
Not from you. And if I was a member reading this thread I wouldn't be sending you any business either.
Now, back to my build.
T
traveler
Guest
stop it your going to make me cry jackass
ranger11 said:
If you already have 1/4" and you sleeve with 1/2" and do it right, it might as well be 3/4", and if you leave several inches sticking out ( say 6-8") , run the new tube all the way to the housing and weld it solid I would think it would be stronger that just turning it down and pressing a couple of inches in the housing.
And traveler why all the hate on anything related to an axle or such that anyone is messing with, seems like that has been the norm for a while in here.
1tonrenegade
Well-Known Member
With the truss an steer cylinder mount all tied in sleeving should be good
TBItoy
Well-Known Member
Re: Re:
I've literally had one conversation with you about a doubler, and ended up going a different route.
Also, care to elaborate on how what I described would be creating a weak link? You pop into threads and rarely ever offer any constructive information.
I know you are one of the people that "actually do" and make a lot of the parts we discuss/debate/bench race about. So your input and experience could be very valuable if you chose to present it.
The casting on a 14 bolt is too small to bore out for a 4" tube.
The OD of a 14 bolt tube is 3 3/8.
I'd assume you'd use 4" x .5" wall DOM for tube.
I'd think leaving 4-6" of stock tube, fully welding it into the center, boring the new 4" tube to press over it, plus a few plug welds and a full weld around the new/stock/center interface, would be the strongest possible way of building a 14b...?
Where is the designed weak link?
I'm not being facetious, I always want to learn.
Why do you stalk me around the internet and call me out/talk down about any comment I make?traveler said:
I've literally had one conversation with you about a doubler, and ended up going a different route.
Also, care to elaborate on how what I described would be creating a weak link? You pop into threads and rarely ever offer any constructive information.
I know you are one of the people that "actually do" and make a lot of the parts we discuss/debate/bench race about. So your input and experience could be very valuable if you chose to present it.
The casting on a 14 bolt is too small to bore out for a 4" tube.
The OD of a 14 bolt tube is 3 3/8.
I'd assume you'd use 4" x .5" wall DOM for tube.
I'd think leaving 4-6" of stock tube, fully welding it into the center, boring the new 4" tube to press over it, plus a few plug welds and a full weld around the new/stock/center interface, would be the strongest possible way of building a 14b...?
Where is the designed weak link?
I'm not being facetious, I always want to learn.
T
traveler
Guest
if yall cant figure it out I will tell you at the point were the tube goes into the housing that is the point of flex it don't matter how much you put from there out that is still the thinnest point so if you don't retube it ,it will break there .and as far as you nick you comment on every thread so if I make a statement then yes its probably towards you .no hate on axle building just make comments so people don't make a mistake but no I will not tell you how to do it step for step that's taking food off of my table like it or not
