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1943 MB Tube thingy updates...

Some of the shaft...

I figure some one would ask about the final on the shaft...

After measuring the two journals I shimmed one "V" block .030 and claped the whole thing to the table - tacked, rotate 180, tacked, rotate 90, tack, ect...

Then I started runing small 3/8" long root beads alternating sides... Fast foward about 8 more passes and the finish cover weld can be seen...

The TIR was around .004" at the second journal and ~.002 - .003" concentricity at the sleeve - I think this was mainly from having the clean the press plug hole that was non-cocentric as supplied from the factory with and endmill in the lathe...

All in all I was pretty happy - we'll see if it lasts...

Matt

I will try and get some pics of the rebuilt NP202 - I did not shoot internal pics as a big gear case is not very exciting and I was busy chasing falling parts with no manual - there were 150+ loose needle bearings in various bores... :rolleyes:
 

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Doubler box length + t-case pics

The doubler box is 9.75" to the tip of the output seal and ~12" to the ujoint centerline with the slip yoke in it...

I got most of the t-case done and wired - just need to add 90wt and hang it...

Matt
 

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:D Isn't that wire to keep from loosing the bolt that falls out? He must be thinkin that he is going to lose alot of them bolts. :redneck:
 
Safety wire 101

Yup - it is safety wire... basically you drill the bolt heads and run twisted stainless wire such that the wire will tighten if either bolt loosens...

I use it because A. I am overly anal... B. It is a good mechanical lock... C. I like the look :flipoff:

Working with race cars has given me a real distrust for loctite and pure torque for retaining bolts in blind holes...

Matt

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My house is inhaling what little jeep budget there was so I am stuck on buying a hydraulic pump so I can design and build the fluid tank, and then buying all the hydraulic line/propane line & fittings and wiring the thing...

I still have to drag it into the shop with the overhead hoist to get the motor in... So I need to pull the mock up block and weld up some hidden stuff and paint the motor compartment... Firewall needs some intake clearence and a seal around the throttle cable... Transmission needs to be ceaned up and I need a new torque converter...

Some gauges probably would be a good idea too...

So I figure it will be another couple of months until I have most of the big stuff squared away :rolleyes:
 
wanderingwillys said:
My house is inhaling what little jeep budget there was so I am stuck on buying a hydraulic pump so I can design and build the fluid tank, and then buying all the hydraulic line/propane line & fittings and wiring the thing...

I still have to drag it into the shop with the overhead hoist to get the motor in... So I need to pull the mock up block and weld up some hidden stuff and paint the motor compartment... Firewall needs some intake clearence and a seal around the throttle cable... Transmission needs to be ceaned up and I need a new torque converter...

Some gauges probably would be a good idea too...

So I figure it will be another couple of months until I have most of the big stuff squared away :rolleyes:


It will be worth the wait it sounds/looks like!
 
Looking good Matt! :Good: But pictures defiantly do not do justices to all the work you have put into that willys.
 
wanderingwillys said:
My house is inhaling what little jeep budget there was so I am stuck on buying a hydraulic pump so I can design and build the fluid tank, and then buying all the hydraulic line/propane line & fittings and wiring the thing...

I still have to drag it into the shop with the overhead hoist to get the motor in... So I need to pull the mock up block and weld up some hidden stuff and paint the motor compartment... Firewall needs some intake clearence and a seal around the throttle cable... Transmission needs to be ceaned up and I need a new torque converter...

Some gauges probably would be a good idea too...

So I figure it will be another couple of months until I have most of the big stuff squared away :rolleyes:


I have a hydraulic pump off a toyota forklift you can have if you would like..... I was going to use it on my junk but I have not room under my hood...
 
Thanks for the offer - is it a pulley driven pump? - I have done most of my setup to run a pump with a PTO shaft that comes off the crank snout and then runs back under the driver floor boards - the top of the tank was planned to be the actual floor pan on the driver side...

Any ideas on GPM or displacement on the pump...
 
wanderingwillys said:
Thanks for the offer - is it a pulley driven pump? - I have done most of my setup to run a pump with a PTO shaft that comes off the crank snout and then runs back under the driver floor boards - the top of the tank was planned to be the actual floor pan on the driver side...

Any ideas on GPM or displacement on the pump...

Right now it has a small prop shaft off the front. It once was direct drive off the crank snout on the motor...... I also have the cylinders and control valves for the hydraulics..... Flow rate I am not sure of, but, it is yours for the taking if you will remove it from my shed.....
 
Thanks Brad - I need to make some time to clean up the pump and see if I have room for it...

Otherwise I got the brackets for my free accusump done and ready to weld in...

I am currently on my 4th serp belt. since I have a mixture of 87' non-HO and 91/92' HO accessories + a small uncommon p/s idler pulley... Gates.com is coming in handy for the trips to napa...

Matt
 
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