1980 Suzuki lj80

LiftedZuki · Oct 27, 2012

Been putting it off, 3 projects and not enough money but I'm getting on it again.

Departing from PO

Got it running the second day

CJ5 bushings

What got me bummed, stripping herculiner for hours and hours

Free flowing for all them 41 horsies.

2 part epoxy

I'm cutting out someones previous metal work, to get to a body mount bolt that had the nut welded to it

, so I can put a new bolt in, and then fix the work, then spray the inner firewall, so I can mount all the stuff to make it run and drive.

I have a quart of monstaliner black for the floorpans and tunnel.

I got the steel body lift removed, have to patch the custom steering columb cut out as well.

unimogken · Oct 27, 2012

:awesomework: I haven't seen one of those in years!

skinny_pedal · Oct 27, 2012

Those are bitchen

Fordzuki · Oct 27, 2012

Good to see some progress on this thing.

Bunk1 · Oct 27, 2012

I had one of these years ago(same color, that might even be the rig)that i beat the living crap out of for a weekend and nothing broke. Supposedly that .8 liter engine revved to 9 grand. I sold it to a guy in auburn and he went thru it, his name was tommy.

LiftedZuki · Oct 27, 2012

My bud says 10k.

Was the speedo in mph or kmh? This one's mph

Suppose to be rebuilt. Block is painted and head is raw. Same as tcase look to been apart

GRW · Oct 27, 2012

Glad to see the little guy is moving forward.

LiftedZuki · Oct 27, 2012

Would be lots further if it wasn't working on it outside lol makes it hard for me.

I want to get it driving before snow. I tore down pedals and painted/greased it all. As well as all the interior pieces are satin black. Gotta figure out steering column next

Bunk1 · Oct 27, 2012

Those floors look to be redone wich mine were. Are the knuckle balls different?
I think he welded the rear end too..Theres pics of it on here from 7? years ago

LiftedZuki · Oct 27, 2012

I think it was Stevecs before grw.

Steve got it from a guy redoing it but quit because medical bills.

Open rear and floor plans redone yes.

Bunk1 · Oct 27, 2012

LiftedZuki said:
I think it was Stevecs before grw.

Steve got it from a guy redoing it but quit because medical bills.

Open rear and floor plans redone yes.

What about the knuckle balls? He broke a stock axle and modded sami knuckles on it to run sammy axles. That REALLY looks like the rig i had. We put a ghetto ass cage in it and put 5000 miles of abuse on it in 3 days. Jumped it easily 3 feet off the ground and buried it in mud(clutch drops got me out). By the end of the weekend i power shifted every gear. Lots of fun!

LiftedZuki · Oct 27, 2012

It's still drum. Samurai knuckles bolt on to lj80 axles with sj410 birfs.

Sami shafts won't fit into lj thirds.

I'll take a look, not many ljs around wa so good chance.

I love samurai transmissions. I can shift them fast as hell. Dd a lifted sami for over a year and got really good with it.
Edit:there is no unnecessary holes for cage plates or tube to go in.

zukkev · Oct 28, 2012

Nice lil LJ :awesomework:...Should be a neat gutless wonder DD when done! :redneck:

LiftedZuki · Oct 28, 2012

Not with the plan. Sold my g13b so I'm doing turbo pane

LiftedZuki · Jan 18, 2013

CHOP SHOP · Jan 18, 2013

IN have another lj for ya, if interested.

Its a beater and its CHEAP

LiftedZuki · Jan 18, 2013

Bought a summit 260 cfm heater, got an 8" arb 3rd for a good price, and the IFS rear end leftover from the sami build.

I got some yj springs out back, going to toss them under the rear, start with a yj SPOA, if I can lower it, I will redo the spring hangers and shackles.

Then I will do a 3 link up front, with used air shocks (then later upgrade to ORIs)

LiftedZuki · Feb 12, 2013

4340, DOM or solid aluminum links for Alaska?

I definitely want to be light as possible, but going into remote areas, I don't want it puking out a joint (afraid alum will do this?)

Thinking 2.25" .375 lower (I bought some FK JMX16 rod ends for the lowers) and 1.5 .120 upper/panhard with ruff stuff 3/4x3/4 with 5/8 mis. spacers

weld on beadlocks from D&J will be here tomorrow (great guy)

bought some 15x8x3.75" BS steelies from a guy on here, and some 2" spacers to widen the IFS rear up to FJ80 track width almost.

LiftedZuki · Feb 12, 2013

Plan is wed. is to get the EB out of the garage (waiting for shims to show up for a week+).

Then get the beadlocks welded on, leak tested, and iroks mounted, then I will bring the LJ80 in and throw the yj springs under it, then bolt up the toy axle and throw iroks on the rear, then wait til payday to buy the rest to 3 link it.

Bunk1 · Feb 12, 2013

LiftedZuki said:
4340, DOM or solid aluminum links for Alaska?

I definitely want to be light as possible, but going into remote areas, I don't want it puking out a joint (afraid alum will do this?)

Thinking 2.25" .375 lower (I bought some FK JMX16 rod ends for the lowers) and 1.5 .120 upper/panhard with ruff stuff 3/4x3/4 with 5/8 mis. spacers

weld on beadlocks from D&J will be here tomorrow (great guy)

bought some 15x8x3.75" BS steelies from a guy on here, and some 2" spacers to widen the IFS rear up to FJ80 track width almost.

Ive never heard of anyone doing 4340 links, only heat treated 4130. 2 inch 7075 lowers will be fine for the rig since its light and they will be short. Those 3/4-3/4 heims should work fine for awhile but may be something that needs to be replaced every year or so. Maybee plan for going to 7/8-3/4 heims later. 1 1/2 .120 uppers will be fine, just make sure they dont touch anything.