• Help Support Hardline Crawlers :

1BAD79 DRIVE TRAIN BUILD "lots o pics"

archer66

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 30, 2006
Messages
50
Reaction score
0
Location
Scappoose OR
Hey all....

Sorry about the dropped pics I have to sort out the supermotors mess

I'm new here and thought I would post up a series of pics to show what I have been building for the last year and a half....... and up front-forgive my spellin'

Some back ground​
I have owned the Bronc for 16 years in that time it has gone from sole transportation for our family to DD for me to what is now a fulll time toy/DD.

The rig had a 400 originally and I built a 460 and C6 for it about ten years ago. in late 04 I started getting some noise out of the 460 and pulled it apart expecting to do a "freshen up" job. That soon snowballed into a real full on build for the motor and a new trans ...as well as suspension and frame work.

First off some pics of the motor- and some specs

473ci (bored 460)
Arias forged flat top Pistons 9.7-1 with my heads
3D profiled H-beam rods
Comp Cam 278h-11 (234-244 @.050 w/ 111deg LC and .580 lift)
SS valves, Roller rockers, Adjustable valvetrain , guide plates, Comp pushrods
Balanced, Ported Heads and more "stuff"


The begining as the short block comes together



Fully assembled


Here is where the fun gets started I built the adapters to mate the NV4500 trans to my 205 t-case and the 460 bellhousing so here are a few pics of those goodies


this shows the work to the tail housing to clear the t-case shift linkage


the adapter on the t-case




Now more fun-- I built the adapter for the 460 to NV4500 bellhousing both of these came out of 6061 alm. billet


this is with things mocked up


I also built the clutch fork and hydrolick slave mounts


Here is the clutch and fork throw out bearing installed




The clutch disc is a ceramic -metalic / Kevlar -composite built for me by Otts' Friction in Portland. I had to clearance the flywheel for the hub to fit. this is a hot rod piece for preformance diesel motors 12-1/4" ( I had to cut that down to 12" to fit under my pressure plate.





This was all mocked up tweaked and then final assembled and installed






Now under the rig I built a new cross member and skid plate and boxed the frame and added some Cage Offroad long rad arms and springs,shock hoops





This one shows how I fabed the trans mount out of some old suspension bushings and tied it in

After it all went together I fired the Motor on a Friday eve, Saturday pulled the T-case and trany tail housing to weld up a crack that showed up after runing the motor awhile, Monday took it to the exhaust shop got it back wednesday evening ,loaded it on the trailer Friday and pulled out for Moab Utah on Saturday morning........ went down for the Easter Jeep safari wheeled for most of the week and had it on display in the vendors area (Cage offroads booth- they are customers of mine ) late in the week... what a blast

Here are a few pics from there
twist%20front.jpg


VF%20side.jpg


VF%20front.jpg



So that should give you an idea of what has eaten all my spare time over the last year...

The post script

While unloading in Moab I got to hearing a lifter noise .. it got worse so I did another valve train adj. .. to no avail ... the cam had gone flat. We ran it all week anyway having pulled 1000+ miles to get there.

So now I have the motor apart , changing cam and lifters as well as new rod and main bearings and a light grind on the crank.... even with precautionary oil /filter changes while down there the billions of pieces of cam hurt the bearings........But damn it pulled hard.

I can not wait to get it on the local chassis dyno in the next few weeks and see what this monster really makes for power.

It's all good​
 
Last edited:
MarcW said:
what tires you gonna run on the chassis dyno?

Not sure yet Mark, The guy who owns the dyno owns a diesel preformance shop and should have a good idea how I should set it up. that will be all new to me.

Have you had any experience with this?

Sven
 
:cheer:

Wow.

Cam went flat... There was an article in Hot Rod or Car Craft the other month... There is less zinc in motor oil... and it's causing new flat tappet cams to go flat during break in. The fix is to add GM motor break in supplement, and run diesel oil, since it contains more zinc, after it's broke in to keep the cam from going flat.
 
yuppers....
just about all "new" oil has gone to super low zinc content, which makes for pretty poor cam break-in....
definitly use some break-in additive when you get ready to run-in the new cam...

oh.....and nice work.

btw, what motor mounts are you using for the 460 in the 78/79 chassis??

--Berne
 
Berne said:
yuppers....
just about all "new" oil has gone to super low zinc content, which makes for pretty poor cam break-in....
definitly use some break-in additive when you get ready to run-in the new cam...
oh.....and nice work.
btw, what motor mounts are you using for the 460 in the 78/79 chassis??
--Berne

Cam went flat... There was an article in Hot Rod or Car Craft the other month... There is less zinc in motor oil... and it's causing new flat tappet cams to go flat during break in. The fix is to add GM motor break in supplement, and run diesel oil, since it contains more zinc, after it's broke in to keep the cam from going flat.

I hadn't caught on to the low zink deal... thanks for the heads up!!

I am running L&L mounts now... I'm not as impressed with their looks/quality as the headers They build but they seem to work. i will be adding a torque limitin strap to the drivers side to help em' out....

Sven
 
archer66 said:
I am running L&L mounts now... I'm not as impressed with their looks/quality as the headers They build but they seem to work. i will be adding a torque limitin strap to the drivers side to help em' out....

Sven

just a heads up Sven....

over the past 7 or 8 years now, I've broken 5 L&L motor mounts....
usually just the torque side one would let go, but the last 2 let go at the same time, and, well, needless to say, that was 'not sweet'....
hence, I'm in the middle of a big build right now.....part of which includes a new motor mount configuration....
granted, alot of the spots my truck gets in wouldn't be consider'd 'normal usage'......and the break-age rate went up after the doubler......but....consider yourself warn'd....
I'd definitly put some sort of torque strap/cable/mount/something on the motor....

I've been collecting pics of my build.....I'll prolly start a thread about it on monday...

--B
 
crash said:
Very cool. This kinda stuff is what I wanna see :D

I'll prolly start my build thread monday or so crashypoo....

I'll bring at least a little tech....:redneck:
 
Hey thanks for the feedback guys and Totalled the EOS is a suprise from the "Old school" like I said in my PM to you my dad used that as a engine assembly lube for years as a line mech for a GM shop and in his own shop after that.

I had used a molly assembly lube but had not known about the low zink deal.

I'll post up the re-install and results later on

-Crash, glad I could get somethin started that fit in with what your looking for here..
 
Yep, the oil stuff is absolutely true, I was going to mention it if others hadn't. I called Comp Cams a couple weeks ago to get their spin and what they recommended on the break in. EOS and 1 qt of Rotello T. Chalk up another win for the greenies. Now we'll have more cars filling up bone yards.

By the way, very nice Bronco :cool:
 
Comet said:
Yep, the oil stuff is absolutely true, I was going to mention it if others hadn't. I called Comp Cams a couple weeks ago to get their spin and what they recommended on the break in. EOS and 1 qt of Rotello T. Chalk up another win for the greenies. Now we'll have more cars filling up bone yards.

By the way, very nice Bronco :cool:

I am ashamed I did'nt know about the low zink situation ...usually try and keep up on that kind of stuff.. now with that said fill me in on Rotello T. ? I'll do a search as well but that's another new product to me.

I don't get out much - stuck in the shop making little pieces of metal out of big ones. :whistling:

thanks- JOOP and Heep70
 
the rotella oil is primarily used in deisel applications....can be found at most parts stores in gallon jugs...
 
Yep any auto parts stores will have it. Don't be ashamed about not knowing. I learned about it on a hot rod board where a handful of people had their cams eaten too. Then someone pointed out the hot rod mag. article. The cam mfrs. should include this in big red warning words. Apparently someone will need to sue them before they do :rolleyes:
 
Comet said:
Yep any auto parts stores will have it. Don't be ashamed about not knowing. I learned about it on a hot rod board where a handful of people had their cams eaten too. Then someone pointed out the hot rod mag. article. The cam mfrs. should include this in big red warning words. Apparently someone will need to sue them before they do :rolleyes:


Thanks Comet, I stopped and got some EOS today and a new Ford one-piece 460 pan gaskets (F5TZ-6710-C) Very cool stuff has steel grommits to keep from over tightning the pan and extruding the gasket and no gobs of RTV needed at the joints.....

I'll get some Rotello over the weekend. My crank didn't get done today so all I can do is rub on the parts and think dirty thoughts until next week. looks like I'll have some dry weather to work in while I put it back together anyway.

Thanks again I'll search for the Hot Rod artical ...always learnin' :redneck:
 

Latest posts

Back
Top