2 Piece DS-Pillow Block Mounting

[InDaShop]

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[Blase]

The part number from Motion Industries is 124277 and runs $ 89.90. This is very classified information please don't let it out :flipper: :flipper: :flipper:

Thanks POPS that is exactly what I was looking for and from the pictures I can now see better what the "spicer" part that rides in the bearing looks like. I REALLY like the way that the drive shaft can't get loose and go to wopp'in on anything but itself.

AC I will say it again you got skills son you got skills.

Can you buy the bearing seperate from the carrier housing? I always like to waste time building thing that I don't need to. If you guys could design a carrier bearing to handle the east coast style of wheeling what would you make it out of and what would it look like?

 

[blacksheep10]

that's a flange bearing not a pillow block, still a spherical outer race so it has the deflection neccessary for chassis flex and drivetrain movement.
I love it
why didn't I think of it
nice.
makes mental note

 

[Toddy]

All this is on a Toyota shaft so bare with me. The toyota shaft will accept a 1 1/2" bearing. The bearing has enough room to move back and forth on the shaft about a 1/4" each way. I think this is the biggest theig on keeping a shaft happy with out hard mounting everything. When the motor rocks it can pull the shaft a little and not blow up the bearing. On the stock carrier bearing it is captured aby the yoke, but mounted in rubber. If you dont have a strait shot it will be hard to use anything else.

I tried to make a carrier bearing like Randy but couldnt figurer out how he delt with deflection. Guess he has every hard mounted or a strait shot from the case.

The ultimate bearing would be just like the cast stuff just made from billet and smaller. A 1 1/2" bearing has a 7 1/2" foot on it making for a bear to mount.

Toddy

 

[InDaShop]

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[P]

The part number from Motion Industries is 124277 and runs $ 89.90. This is very classified information please don't let it out :flipper: :flipper: :flipper:

/thread = winner....

I tried to order one like that from the bigbearing webiste mentioned previously. Didnt get what I wanted ( two bolt mount flange style like whats pictured.) Hell Ill just go get this unit, it does have a spherical type joint in it ? so it can deflect like a rodend ? Ill go to motion industries at lunch and check them out one of these days... Thanks AC and POPS for the information, the picture and the part number.

 

[P]

Oh yea, Pops do you guys know the ID of that particular bearing ?

 

[Blase]

Toddy brings up another question in regrauds to the deflection. It looks like most of you guys are not running any kind of slip in the "first" section of you shaft(or the part that bolts to the T-case and the Pillow block). I am guessing that this is becuase the shaft will slide inside of the carrier bearing to allow for flex? I have seen it done both ways so I was just wondering which you guys feel is better.

 

[Toddy]

All depends on your set-up. If you run bushings and the motor can move you need slip. If it is hard mounted no slip needed at the bearing. Just looking at Adams set up looks like a hard mounted motor so he needs no slip. On a small 2 seat buggy it is gonna be hard to use a bearing like Adam cause of space. It took 2 days for me to finally figure out how to mount mine when I did it. Little room and that big flange make it a ***** sometimes.

Toddy

 

[blacksheep10]

if you mount properly, not front to back slip needed, but sometimes you will need the spherical aspect. the front to back aspect is something to think about, how do you lock the inner race of the bearing to the shaft, just make sure its and interference fit and tap it on, or let it spin til it welds and then it won't spin anymore?

 

[Toddy]

It is still gonna move front to back some. With the way it is mounted and the misaligment I dont lock the shaft. Never had a problem. Now going fast might have to look into that but for the slow stuff no problems.

Toddy

 

[blacksheep10]

woodruff key?

 

[Blase]

I am planning on rubber mounting my whole drive train(Motor ,Trans, and T-case support) with Sring eye bushings. Should I put some slip in both sides of it? Seems like the slip will take up a lot more room and put more stress on the middle joint since it will have the bearing farthur behind it. School me, am I think of it wrong?

 

[blacksheep10]

can you put the pillow block on the OD of the female part of the slip right up against the ears? it would take like a 1.75" or more bearing, but that would do it.

 

[P]

OK , so who has "weld in " joke and spline part numbers ???? Spicer stuff obviously....

 

[Blase]

can you put the pillow block on the OD of the female part of the slip right up against the ears? it would take like a 1.75" or more bearing, but that would do it.

I don't know but that would be pimp. It would require the slip to slide inside of the bearing which would probably make it to sloppy.

WAIT A MINUTE What if you put the slip at the T-case and then at the axle? It woudl take a much bigger bearing but it would work correct? Like this I could machine the fixed/welded yoke so that it was very close to the bearing. In fact I think that I could machine it so that the bearing rode on the yoke, at least part of it. What do you think will that work? Do they make a bearing like AC used that is that big?

 

[Blase]

OK , so who has "weld in " joke and spline part numbers ???? Spicer stuff obviously....

I do not but I need them.

 

[InDaShop]

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[Travis]

If you need part numbers or spicer parts, call Tom at Carolina Driveline. He can hook you up, tell him I told you to call.

My problem with two piece drivelines has been bad vibrations. Tom has come up with a setup to do away with the pillow blocks. Basically he builds to independant driveshafts, both with slip. He is making a shaft and bearing assembly with a tube housing that is fixed to the chassis, with bolt on yokes on both ends. It is a sweet setup, that he says can be setup to be vibration free on my jeep. I don't have the best driveline angles, especially being low pinion front, but he says he can make it work.

 

[blacksheep10]

you are making this to hard.

the bearing is slipped onto the intermediate shaft and rides in the bearing its not screwed into or bolted or welded to the shaft, so there is some slop for the short shaft (transfer to pillowblock to slide a little bit.
then obviously the slip is on the shaft to diff section of the driveshaft.

go check yours. you see in your pic that big nut holding the center yoke on the short upper shaft? that nut has to tighten down on something. that something is the front of the yoke. the back of the yoke is seated on...you guessed it, the inner race of the bearing. that is what locks the bearing to the intermediate. there is no fore and aft movement in your short shaft wyatt. only spherical movement for tcase up and down stuff.