tonybolton
Bypass Crawler
....or jus get a tonneau cover...
Also, which black bear route did you go? Did you do the data logging where you drove around with their junk plugged into your truck then send the pcm back to them to tune it (or however it works)?
I've been looking at them, looked at them back in the day for my old truck too, but got a good deal on the Predator tuner from a buddy on here and went that route. I think the Diablosport i3 tuner has torque management adjustability, but not sure if the Predator 2 does. Predator 2 is cheaper. But from reading on Diablosport forums, the Diablo tunes all have torque management reductions built into the tunes, which makes me wonder if there would be anything else to gain by buying the i3 tuner, or could I pretty much do what I needed to do with the Predator 2 tuner. The Predator 1 tuner I had allowed for installation of a few different preset tunes, and had advanced options to adjust shift points, shift pressure, and seems like there was some fuel injection options and ability to adjust speedometer for tire size/gear ratio change. I'd figure the Predator 2 does the same ****, might even do the same **** as the i3 tuner, further research is needed.
I can only speak to my research and experience with BBP, but the overwhelming majority of what I read said that a BBP tune was much better than everything else available. I have been satisfied with the tunes and customer service so far, though having to email them for every little thing can get old. Maybe I'm a little old school in that regard.
I went (and encourage) the data logging route and ended up buying the Autocal after the fact so I can change tunes on the fly and not have to swap the ECM every time. I would buy the Autocal for the sole reason of not having to do the security relearn every time you change a tune - not difficult, just annoying. I have a sport tune, towing tune and a stock tune, though I leave it in sport 99% of the time. Because racetruck.
The mesh ones create bad wind resistance? I wouldn't have thought they made much of a difference. Either way, I don't want to remove it, its way too handy. I also have a few yards to keep mowed so I haul my mower on this trailer all summer and don't want to lose the gate.
Atsrite! So do you leave it in sport mode even when towing something? I was watching a youtube vid on the Predator 2 tuner on a 2015 silverado and it had a Diablo Tow Tune available on it. I know thats a newer truck than mine, but the same tuner is listed for use in the whole year model range of 5.3l silverados I believe. So it would seem I could download a tow tune and try, or just run the 87 octane tune like I did in my old truck.
I don't doubt Black Bear's quality and performance, I'm just hesitant to commit to the hassle. Plug and play is much more appealing to me. But if I knew the difference was substantial I might opt for Black Bear tune. Predator 2 is only $338. Not terrible.
In my limited experience yes on the tall mesh tailgate. Drug an empty 6x12 with a gate (very similiar to yours) two hours of interstate driving away to pickup a zero turn for wife's work. Truck (06 Tacoma with V6 and automatic) hated that trip and was constantly hunting for gears and acting like you mentioned at the beginning. Honestly wondered if the tranmission was going out.
Picked up the zero turn and folded the rear gate all the way down into the trailer floor. Drove two hours back home and truck was just fine and showed none of the problems of the empty trip down. So while I added weight to the trailer, by folding down the air dam/tailgate on the trailer and everything acted better/happier.
You probably don't notice the wind resistence with the lawn mower since I assume you aren't driving extended periods of time at interstate speeds with that setup. If you have the room on the trailer (and the trailer/tailgate allows), load the bike and then flip the tailgate down into the trailer floor. See if that makes a difference since it's a cheap fix.
If I'm towing much more than my Rhino I'll load the Tow tune in it, otherwise I leave it in Sport. I had them set up my Sport tune with an 80% reduction of TM and when Tow/Haul button is pressed TM goes to 100% reduction and really wakes the truck up. I have an aftermarket trans cooler and scangauge 2 to make sure trans temps stay in check.
The only real hassle (if you buy the Autoca)l is the initial data logging, which isn't all that bad. The other reason I went with the scan cable tune was so that they could review data and make sure I didnt have a sensor reading off in left field. They also review the log after the tune to make sure it's running right. That peace of mind is worth a lot to me.
If you're ever around Hoover I'd let you take my truck for a spin.
Why don't you just quit being a ***** and ride the bike to the track? Isn't it just a grandpa version of a sport bike anyways?
Josh, I'm sure you have thought about this but what about the front differential. Is that included in the 300$ from ecgs?
Imagine thisYou mean I would have to regear both ends?! Fawk, I'm definitely not doing it now....
Yes that was $300ish per end for Yukon gears and then another $130 per end for master rebuild kits. So nearly $900 just in parts. Motive gears were a little less than $200 per end, but I'm gonna try a tune first and if that don't work I might regear later. Or swap it for a 3/4 ton gasser. Lol
Imagine this
If you had a badass, red, 3/4 ton gasser! It was a sharp truck.
FIgure it all out, and let me know if it was worth it and how much it cost you. (of course, I'm sure all this was hashed out somewhere on the internet 10 years ago when these trucks were new enough that people cared)
I'll probably buy a newer Tundra or newer 2500 Chevy (new enough to get the 6L90) before I dump any money into this old pile.
side note:
I've found that driving with the shifter in 3rd, and tow haul mode on, it drives and holds gears *almost* exactly what I would do if it were a manual trans.
Regearing will be last resort, as I really don't want to dedicate the time to working on it. My free time is sparse and both my bikes need worked on too. Lol. Hoping a plug and play tuner really helps. That's likely the first route I go.
hell I've bought and sold 4 or 5 hypertechs and diablo tuners for these trucks in the last 15 years... should have kept one. I think dad has a hypertech max? somewhere, might try to dig it up.
After putting 4 years and 200K+ miles on a nice tuned up Duramax, then selling it and driving absolute beaters for the last 3 years, I got this 1500 and was just happy to be in a fullsize truck again... I've just learned to accept it's limitations (accept the fact that it's basically a damn car...)
FIgure it all out, and let me know if it was worth it and how much it cost you. (of course, I'm sure all this was hashed out somewhere on the internet 10 years ago when these trucks were new enough that people cared)
I'll probably buy a newer Tundra or newer 2500 Chevy (new enough to get the 6L90) before I dump any money into this old pile.
side note:
I've found that driving with the shifter in 3rd, and tow haul mode on, it drives and holds gears *almost* exactly what I would do if it were a manual trans.