30,000 miles...

skrause · Dec 9, 2007

*sigh*

At least it waited until I was almost home to let go.

Lucky Jeff · Dec 9, 2007

most of the time they make it to 50k... you just had to step it up a notch didn't ya... the things are junk for sure..

skrause · Dec 9, 2007

Lucky Jeff said:
most of the time they make it to 50k... you just had to step it up a notch didn't ya... the things are junk for sure..

Fawk, I have Toy joints that have gone 200k+. So what's the best fix? OEM or something else? I don't like how these ones aren't greasable, and it obviously went dry. Also what the heck is holding the caps in, I thought it was those "pin" looking things going in the sides of the yokes but when I tried to pull one out I found it was plastic?!? :eeek: No snap rings? :wtf:

'06 CTD 3500 btw. :popcorn:

skrause · Dec 9, 2007

Lucky Jeff said:
you just had to step it up a notch didn't ya

Almost forgot, it let loose at ~80mph. Thought I blew a right rear tire. :aah:

TheMasterbater · Dec 10, 2007

My dodge my dodge my dodge :fawkdancesmiley:

At least my broken part was mechanics fault :fawkdancesmiley: :kiss:

skrause · Dec 10, 2007

TheMasterbater said:
My dodge my dodge my dodge :fawkdancesmiley:

At least my broken part was mechanics fault :fawkdancesmiley: :kiss:

At least I still drove it home. :fawkdancesmiley: :fawkdancesmiley: :fawkdancesmiley: I can do front digs right now too. :redneck:

Lucky Jeff · Dec 10, 2007

usually it's starts to cause a vibration and people tend to overlook the u-joint because it isn't sloppy, it freezes up. When you finally take em apart you have this nice orange dust inside.. When my Dad had to replace his a few months ago he couldn't find another option and had to reluctantly go with OEM. But that may have changed by now.. Not sure if someone else is offering a greaseable version yet..

TheMasterbater · Dec 10, 2007

skrause said:
At least I still drove it home. :fawkdancesmiley: :fawkdancesmiley: :fawkdancesmiley: I can do front digs right now too. :redneck:

:thud: :blabla:

skrause · Dec 10, 2007

Lucky Jeff said:
usually it's starts to cause a vibration and people tend to overlook the u-joint because it isn't sloppy, it freezes up. When you finally take em apart you have this nice orange dust inside.. When my Dad had to replace his a few months ago he couldn't find another option and had to reluctantly go with OEM. But that may have changed by now.. Not sure if someone else is offering a greaseable version yet..

Ya I had the vibes but couldn't tell which one because there was no play yet. I'll hit up the local Napa tomorrow and see what they say.

GRNTACO · Dec 10, 2007

Bummer dude.

pokey · Dec 10, 2007

Oh its a toyota driveline. Their a throw away item anyway arnt they? So no need to maintain or grease anyway.:booo:

CrustyJeep · Dec 10, 2007

pokey said:
Oh its a toyota driveline.

Toyota in the tow rig forum? Inherently off topic :haha:

Lucky Jeff · Dec 10, 2007

CrustyJeep said:
Toyota in the tow rig forum? Inherently off topic :haha:

that would be the "Towed Rig" section..

Fullywrecked · Dec 11, 2007

pokey said:
Oh its a toyota driveline. Their a throw away item anyway arnt they? So no need to maintain or grease anyway.:booo:

Well Jimbo, I have a toyota driveline that gets driving everyday and its got 271K on it with original joints (non greaseable) and they are still running, try that in you jeep/bronco thingy. The ujoints are sill good but thge splines on the driveline are showing some wear.:masturbanana[1]: :awesomework:

86badboy · Dec 11, 2007

Fullywrecked said:
Well Jimbo, I have a toyota driveline that gets driving everyday and its got 271K on it with original joints (non greaseable) and they are still running, try that in you jeep/bronco thingy. The ujoints are sill good but thge splines on the driveline are showing some wear.:masturbanana[1]: :awesomework:

the non greasable u-joints are actually stronger and will stand up to more abuse, they are not hollow like the greasable ones, which tend to twist or give a little until they finally go

GRNTACO · Dec 11, 2007

pokey said:
Oh its a toyota driveline. Their a throw away item anyway arnt they? So no need to maintain or grease anyway.:booo:

[kyle]:looser: :looser: :haha::fawkdancesmiley:

[/kyle]

pokey · Dec 11, 2007

Fullywrecked said:
Well Jimbo, I have a toyota driveline that gets driving everyday and its got 271K on it with original joints (non greaseable) and they are still running, try that in you jeep/bronco thingy. The ujoints are sill good but thge splines on the driveline are showing some wear.:masturbanana[1]: :awesomework:

well jerbo you drive like a little old lady and your driveline is like a gernade with the pin pulled out. just like his was:haha: :haha:

mthompson223 · Dec 11, 2007

skrause said:
Fawk, I have Toy joints that have gone 200k+. So what's the best fix? OEM or something else? I don't like how these ones aren't greasable, and it obviously went dry. Also what the heck is holding the caps in, I thought it was those "pin" looking things going in the sides of the yokes but when I tried to pull one out I found it was plastic?!? :eeek: No snap rings? :wtf:

'06 CTD 3500 btw.

I believe what you're looking at is an injected plastic/glue that holds the cap in place. I usually heat the joint up with a torch until the plastic comes oozing out the hole and then it's ready to be knocked out.

skrause · Dec 11, 2007

pokey said:
Oh its a toyota driveline. Their a throw away item anyway arnt they? So no need to maintain or grease anyway.:booo:

Never said it was. :kucknuts:

skrause said:
'06 CTD 3500 btw.

skrause · Dec 11, 2007

mthompson223 said:
I believe what you're looking at is an injected plastic/glue that holds the cap in place. I usually heat the joint up with a torch until the plastic comes oozing out the hole and then it's ready to be knocked out.

Thanks! My local Napa has a new one waiting for me, but I was wondering if there would be any tricks required. I'm assuming the new one will come with snaprings... :eeek: