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4.0L Jeep Auto VS Manual

rpf500

rpf500

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 7, 2013
Messages
1,171
Location
Evansville, IN
I'm just kicking this around and wanted to hear some opinions as well as what worked for you and what holds up.

So, I have a 5sp trans now. I like it, I think the manual shifter is fun to drive and adds some challenge at times doing technical riding. Anyway, after the Grayrock ride, I started thinking about going to an auto. Mainly due to the fact that with all the layers of clothes I had on, the technical terrain, and various other reasons, I found my leg getting really tired of shifting for 2 days straight. Also, I saw some auto trans in other rigs able to do some things that I struggled with. Namely, stopping, holding on a hill, and starting again. I can do it since I have cutting brakes, but it's a lot going on when that happens.

So, I'm not thinking about an LS motor and trans swap or anything of that nature right now. The 4.0 does what I need and I'm fine with the engine. I run a DANA 300 with 4:1 kit also.

What have you guys ran that has held up? The adapters from Advance or Novak are $500+ to mate any heavy duty transmissions up so that is out. Most likely will be a TF 999, 909, etc, but wondering what bolts up, what holds up, any upgrades that you recommend, etc. Also would like to see any pics from the guys that swapped from a 5sp as to how you set up your shifter.
 
AW4 bolts up. I run one behind a turbo 2rz to D300. Not much time with it yet, so durability is up in the air, but I like it on the trails. Novak clocking ring was $150 to put the D300 behind the AW4. I have RAdesigns shifters controlling the transmission. *edit* The AW4 is shorter than the A340, so fo me it was easier to package *edit*
 
Re:

I've abused several aw4. One to the point it smoked for an hour after I overheated it. When I pulled it the fluid was toast. It never quit pulling though. I had to swap it cause when I changed they fluid the case cracked when I screwed the line in.
 
I run a 42re not RLE behind my 4.0. It's a 4 speed. I love an auto. I don't really need 4 gears but it's what came out of my donor. Its been great. I have always run a cooler. I would never go standard for sure.

I think you will like a torque flite but they are less durable than an aw4 in stock form. If you build one up and run synthetic fluid, no worries. An aw4 can just be beat on and abused with a million miles and still keep rockin.

Good luck. I don't think you'll regret it
 
I ran a 32rh behind a 4.0, 35s and 4.56 and it did well. Same as any auto, keeping it cool is key. Only problem I ever had was water infiltration since the vent is on the pump face. When I replaced that one I had the pump face sealed, relocated the vent to the top of the case and had them beef up the clutches. Just under 30k miles including crawling, pulling, slow trails, highway, water and 100+ outside temps and it still pulls strong. I just pulled for my LS swap. I'll sell it to you cheap. I've got over $1600 in it but I just want it gone. It's of no use to me and it's taking valuable space during this swap. Make me an offer if you're interested.
 
How did you all address the computer controlled AW4? What I read on the almighty interweb was that they are shifted via the computer and you had to get a donor computer as well.

KRAHN....what spline count does the 32RH have?
 
I thought the AW4 was controlled by the little self contained unit on the side of the transmission, not the ecu for the motor. Tell me otherwise and I will believe it! :D
 
Re:

Aw4 had its own computer. RAD designs had a shifted that can eliminate it though iirc. These trans can hold up to a ton of abuse, most of the jeep speed guys run them. You can get a cheap clicking ring for the 300 from 4 wheel supply.
 
Console
 

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Re: Re: 4.0L Jeep Auto VS Manual

This is the art carr/winters shifter with Rad Design switches to control the AW4.
I didn't want a separate shifter to shift from park to drive/reverse and a separate for 1-3. This fixes both
db1c4a1674595216aa004db0c5bd65ca.jpg
 
scrambled said:
I run a 4.0, and AW4 with the RAD shifter, clocked 300, and 4.88s.

I took out my AX15 and replaced it with this. I have no computer, only the RAD shifter. Just buy a twin pass tranny cooler from Jegs or Mr. Cool or whatever and peel out. It works great on its side doesnt surge or fade at all on verts.


https://www.facebook.com/#!/video.php?v=10202530392757612&set=vb.1129454656&type=3&theater
Click to expand...



Did the AW4 match up to the DANA300 input? I don't know for a fact what has been changed on my t-case. I won't know until it's all apart.

Anyway, thanks for all the info. Nice console set up too!
 
Well damn I dont know. Let me describe it...


The sun got in my eyes and becasue of that I laid the Jeep on its side. I shut it off cause aint noone really around and I start to undo my harness. Just then I hear in the distance "try and back up". So I start the Jeep, put it in R and sure as **** it goes backwards and back on the tires.



Thats probably better than the damn video anyways :****:
 

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