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4.0L Jeep Auto VS Manual

The AW4 transmission was used in 4.0L equipped XJs from 1987 through 2001. It was also rarely used in 2.5L equipped XJs with the automatic transmission option, 1987-1990*. It has 3 regular forward gears and 1 overdrive gear, along with a torque converter containing a lockup clutch. Gear selection is part hydraulic and part electronically controlled via solenoid valves. Shift firmness is controlled by a throttle valve cable which meters fluid pressure into the valve body based on throttle position.

Gearshift positions -
Park - this one's obvious.
Reverse - obvious.
Neutral - also obvious
Drive - in this gearshift position, 1, 2, 3, or Overdrive may be electronically selected. See the table after this section for details. If the electronics are disconnected, this will put the transmission in overdrive.
3 - in this gearshift position, 1, 2, or 3 may be electronically selected. If the electronics are disconnected, this will put the transmission in 3rd.
1-2 - in this gearshift position, gears 1 and 2 are available via electronic control. The transmission hydraulics enable engine braking in 1st gear with the gearshift in this position. If the electronics are disconnected, this will put the transmission in 1st.

2nd gear is not available without some sort of electronics (stock, a toggle switch in the dash, whatever) powering the solenoids.


Is the part above about 2nd gear correct?
 
rpf500 said:
Did the AW4 match up to the DANA300 input? I don't know for a fact what has been changed on my t-case. I won't know until it's all apart.

Anyway, thanks for all the info. Nice console set up too!

Maybe the outputs are 32 spline but I have no doubt the input is still 23. Just need to find you a 23 spline AW4.




Ohh and ya gotta do this.

aw4-59.jpg
 
Re: Re: 4.0L Jeep Auto VS Manual

rpf500 said:
The AW4 transmission was used in 4.0L equipped XJs from 1987 through 2001. It was also rarely used in 2.5L equipped XJs with the automatic transmission option, 1987-1990*. It has 3 regular forward gears and 1 overdrive gear, along with a torque converter containing a lockup clutch. Gear selection is part hydraulic and part electronically controlled via solenoid valves. Shift firmness is controlled by a throttle valve cable which meters fluid pressure into the valve body based on throttle position.

Gearshift positions -
Park - this one's obvious.
Reverse - obvious.
Neutral - also obvious
Drive - in this gearshift position, 1, 2, 3, or Overdrive may be electronically selected. See the table after this section for details. If the electronics are disconnected, this will put the transmission in overdrive.
3 - in this gearshift position, 1, 2, or 3 may be electronically selected. If the electronics are disconnected, this will put the transmission in 3rd.
1-2 - in this gearshift position, gears 1 and 2 are available via electronic control. The transmission hydraulics enable engine braking in 1st gear with the gearshift in this position. If the electronics are disconnected, this will put the transmission in 1st.

2nd gear is not available without some sort of electronics (stock, a toggle switch in the dash, whatever) powering the solenoids.


Is the part above about 2nd gear correct?
You also need the controls to hold in 1st. The tcm will switch from 1-2 on its on without.
 
scrambled said:


Is that a cable shifter on the 300? It doesn't seem far enough back considering the length of the Aw4 to be linkage shifter? I have been thinking about switching to this set up also, but am not looking forward to chopping my floor up again.
 
No cable, just normal twin sticks. The passenger seat is sitting on top of the 300. I actually welded a stud to the case to mount a seat.

What you are seeing is the AW4 shifter cable and the wires for the RADesigns shifter.
 
scrambled said:
No cable, just normal twin sticks. The passenger seat is sitting on top of the 300. I actually welded a stud to the case to mount a seat.

What you are seeing is the AW4 shifter cable and the wires for the RADesigns shifter.

Thanks. I knew which was which. I thought the 300 shifter would be further back. I'm glad to know its not. I won't have to cut so much floor out.
 
I think with the clocking ring/adapter you end up being about 2" longer than the AX15.

Removing the pilot bushing sucks but make sure you do that. Everything will bolt together fine except the convertor won't spin.
 
Holy smokes, I just finished a full manual valve body reprogram on my 42re, I dont know why or how I was ever wheeling without it. Freakin sweet !!
 
Bringing back up. Tore up my Dana 300 so may do this swap while it's apart.

What about a tf999? I'm reading it's tough and exact length as AX15 so no drive shaft changes supposedly
 

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