4 link front jeep tj

[97cummins]

Looking for advice on 4 linking the front of my Jeep tj. Running 3 link right now is there advantage to changing? Anyone with pictures?
Thanks
Justin

 

[RustyC]

Front 4 link is a stronger design due to the additional upper link. It also does not suffer from the axle moving laterally because there is no track/panhard bar. 4 link does require full hydraulic steering though.

What type of steering do you have now?

 

[97cummins]

Front 4 link is a stronger design due to the additional upper link. It also does not suffer from the axle moving laterally because there is no track/panhard bar. 4 link does require full hydraulic steering though.

What type of steering do you have now?

Running ylink right now not opposed of full hydro I figured it was stronger. Do you have to be double triangulated to get away from track at?
Looking for some pictures I know it can be done but realestate is tight with 4.0l

 

[87TPIYJ]

Dual triangulation (sum of link angles exceeds 45°) will allow you to ditch the track bar any less and you will not have enough resistance to lateral load. Since your arc will now be on a plane parallel to the frame rails you have to go full hydro or have a bell crank system to keep from having bump steer.

 

[Trailabite]

I have a question:

So, it's said the minimum angle for the top links should be around 40*. Is there a maximum separation that will still allow the removal of the trackbar and hold the axle in place? Or is the 40* to 45* the spot?

 

[87TPIYJ]

You would never hit the theoretical max where would start to lose Forward and aft control unless you had the worlds funkiest set up that probably not even possible to package. I think that's what you are asking.

 

[RustyC]

If you have straight lower links, I would not go below 40 degrees with the uppers.
If your lowers are triangulated to 45 degrees, then your uppers could be straight (no triangulation)

Think MINIMUM triangulation = the sum of the all the links of 40-40 degree total.

 

[Trailabite]

If you have straight lower links, I would not go below 40 degrees with the uppers.
If your lowers are triangulated to 45 degrees, then your uppers could be straight (no triangulation)

Think MINIMUM triangulation = the sum of the all the links of 40-40 degree total.

My lowers are straight, but I can't get my uppers close to 40*. I was hoping to get rid of the trackbar.

 

[97cummins]

If you have straight lower links, I would not go below 40 degrees with the uppers.
If your lowers are triangulated to 45 degrees, then your uppers could be straight (no triangulation)

Think MINIMUM triangulation = the sum of the all the links of 40-40 degree total.

Thanks

 

[TBItoy]

this rig seems to have noticeably less front triangulation than a lot of others, and seems to do fine.


You probably sacrifice some joint life as your triangulation decreases, as the load on the joints increase to counteract side-side movement.

 

[Beerj]

^^^^^ That was exactly the first rig I thought of when talking about enough triangulation. Lots of people (myself included) thought there's no way that axle stays there. But it apparently worked just fine. That said, you'd want to be pretty damn confident about all of your link mounts.

 

[bgredjeep]

Looks like an easy 10° on each link in Tim's rig. x4=40.