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4link kit

sarg said:
Its true I wouldnt let any my friends use them but I always recomend them to fellow board members in hopes that I will see them on the trail getting held back because of there johnny joints:booo:


It worked in my case...thank's alot for suggesting those to me a-hole :flipoff: :flipoff: :flipoff: :flipoff:
 
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Toyotanut said:
Even with the lateral movement that you get out of them???? Why would you do JJ if you were to do it again?

first if you do a double triangulated 4link you wont have any lateral movement.
 
Toyotanut said:
Even with the lateral movement that you get out of them???? Why would you do JJ if you were to do it again?

The fawkin rattle you get with hiems :D

One downfall of the inverted 4 link is the fact that you truely only have traingulation on the lowers so you get some prettry harse side loads against the hiems...
 
crash said:
The fawkin rattle you get with hiems :D

How can you hear them when you have "Heart" cranked up on your stereo all the time:flipoff:
 
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crash said:
One downfall of the inverted 4 link is the fact that you truely only have traingulation on the lowers so you get some prettry harse side loads against the hiems...

on Bens rig he did the inverted 4 link he put 1inch hiems on the lowers and jj on the uppers and it works real well I like the inverted four but I think it puts more stress on the lowers from side to side than a double tri link:;
 
i say jonny joints for sure,my friend built all his susp on his jeep and used hiem's the first 3 times lol he kills them quick so now he is rebuiling his setup with all jonny,way better there.
 
sarg said:
on Bens rig he did the inverted 4 link he put 1inch hiems on the lowers and jj on the uppers and it works real well I like the inverted four but I think it puts more stress on the lowers from side to side than a double tri link:;


it is still push pull... the only change is where the pressure is applied to the housing. no matter if they are straight or triangulated....... the real difference is where you do not have the distance to get the width out of your triangulation. at that point having the uppers to "help" with the stability will help keep the rear in it's location.
 

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