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A lil Something

84Toyota4x4 said:
Not if it fails sideways, from a hard roll. Since the spreader is already partly bent, the A/B/C pillars' force inwards could collapse it, whereas a straight bar wouldnt do that IMO. Am I way far off base here?

I guess if there was a hard roll, anything would be better than nothing, and I'm sure theres downsides to any design, one way or the other.

In any case, I like the look of the bent spreaders and would probably do them in my own truck, the work looks really good too. Is there a special tool for making those dimples in the tube where you have hardware mounted? Or did you just tighten the crap out of it? Or, do you dimple it and sleeve it? It seems that the dimples would make for a weak spot? I dunno, Im a newbie :)

~T.J.

Sure the spreaders are bent but you have to look at a side roll the forces are pushed thru a # of spreaders--just not one. Plus with adding cross triangulation to the b pillar that will resolve that issue. But that boils down to having space to do it aka access to the rear of the rig. one reason my rig has no triangulation side/side in the b-pillar due to needing to get into the back of the rig/kids... But that can be helped by what material you use--why I strongly suggest to use DOM in all my cages....

As karl said--thats the factory stuff when by itself is weak but when properly added to is quite strong. But if you compare a cj/yj stock b-pillar to a TJ you will find the TJ is kinda the goofy ones of the lot.... And all stock b-pillars are like 2 1/8" diameter.
 
Here are a few more pics :;

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matt9.jpg


matt10.jpg
 
crash said:
Its 2" .120 DOM.

Mike,
Same question I posed Karl; Do the plastic door surround thingies going to work?
Tony

On my design, Pat used my tubing 1.75 and the plastic pieces 'just' clip on. Those side bars have to be spacially located exactly right or the door surrounds won't work. Not that big of a deal with a hardtop, but hardtops don't seem to work good off-road anyway. So if he's going to use a factory style softtop, you might have issues with those bars being too fat.
T
 
TreeClimber said:
Mike,
Same question I posed Karl; Do the plastic door surround thingies going to work?
Tony

On my design, Pat used my tubing 1.75 and the plastic pieces 'just' clip on. Those side bars have to be spacially located exactly right or the door surrounds won't work. Not that big of a deal with a hardtop, but hardtops don't seem to work good off-road anyway. So if he's going to use a factory style softtop, you might have issues with those bars being too fat.
T

Are you refering to the plastic parts that screw to the windshield frame?
 
crash said:
Are you refering to the plastic parts that screw to the windshield frame?

Nope, the plastic door surround pieces mount to the roll bar and go from the windshield frame down along the window edge to the body behind the door edge.

The factory TJ tops and sides clip into these pieces and the doors seal to them also.

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.compositeproducts.com/application/graphics/jeep4.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.compositeproducts.com/application/door.asp&h=115&w=133&sz=4&hl=en&start=14&tbnid=nqs4wQTLmzQ6lM:&tbnh=80&tbnw=92&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dwrangler%2Bdoor%2Bsurround%26svnum%3D10%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%26sa%3DG
 

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Oh--for a soft top--I dunno :D

The a pillar is inboard about as far as it can go due to internal dash parts but there is quite a bit of room...
 
crash said:
Sure the spreaders are bent but you have to look at a side roll the forces are pushed thru a # of spreaders--just not one. Plus with adding cross triangulation to the b pillar that will resolve that issue. But that boils down to having space to do it aka access to the rear of the rig. one reason my rig has no triangulation side/side in the b-pillar due to needing to get into the back of the rig/kids... But that can be helped by what material you use--why I strongly suggest to use DOM in all my cages....

As karl said--thats the factory stuff when by itself is weak but when properly added to is quite strong. But if you compare a cj/yj stock b-pillar to a TJ you will find the TJ is kinda the goofy ones of the lot.... And all stock b-pillars are like 2 1/8" diameter.

Yes, the factory cage is a goofy measurement, and becuause of the manufacturing process, they aren't all the same in the same areas.

HREW is strong, but I don't like how the factory stamped thier little dimples in the cage to mount seatbelts and such. Some triangulation on the factory cage with some frame tie in, and I would trust my life to it in a mild roll, but not an ass over teakettle roll down a big hill.

And somewhere, there is an article that tests the different types of tubing from poop pipe all the way to 4340. They found the DOM is almost as strong as 4340, without all the extra work of re heat treating and such. I'll see if I can dig it up.
 
KarlVP said:
And somewhere, there is an article that tests the different types of tubing from poop pipe all the way to 4340. They found the DOM is almost as strong as 4340, without all the extra work of re heat treating and such. I'll see if I can dig it up.

Id be interested in reading this article if you can find it!
 
i do not believe chromo is that much stonger then DOM. the advatage to it is when running chromo in a racecar you can use a smaller wallthickness as copared to DOM, and still be legal while being as strong
 
82toyomud said:
It should be preheated to right around 90 degree's. Is DOM just mild steel? What is its make up?
Yep, mild. It is cold drawn though, so it's much stronger than hot drawn mild steel (HREW). Plus the weld gets drawn, making it stronger, too.
 
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