Air shock / coilover / anti rock bar help question????

Rokcrler · Dec 5, 2012

Before you yank out the e-locker, fix it so it unlocks... its easy. I love my e-locker in front and i can tell a big difference in turning with it locked/unlocked.
Why not remove one drive flange and test drive it to see if the leaning youre experiencing goes away... before you go spending money that can be used elsewhere... unless you like just throwing money at parts molaugh

... just sayin'

TacomaJD · Dec 5, 2012

Rokcrler said:
Before you yank out the e-locker, fix it so it unlocks... its easy. I love my e-locker in front and i can tell a big difference in turning with it locked/unlocked.
Why not remove one drive flange and test drive it to see if the leaning youre experiencing goes away... before you go spending money that can be used elsewhere... unless you like just throwing money at parts ... just sayin'

My theory with the e locker is even if it worked properly, I don't think it's something that's really handy to have in the front.....in the rear, it would be more applicable like what comes factory in a TRD Taco that gets road driven alot... But if it is what's causing the body roll for the most part, I don't want to have to be constantly locking/unlocking it all day long every time I get ready to crawl something. Plus Hagan brought up a good point that with it being the original e-locker in a factory fj80 front end, it's really not built to handle 39" stickies and is only a matter of time before it shoots it's wad. I'm still learning about fj80 **** as my Tacoma had a D44 front end in it....but that's just what I've heard, read, and formed a hypothesis on. molaugh

And yes, I will try takin one flange out before I spend the money on a Detroit for sure, to see what the result is.

Rokcrler · Dec 5, 2012

I personally dont mind locking in the front only when im getting ready to climb, i do miss the ability to unlock the rear tho. My two previous rigs had a D300 and i ran in FWD and locked the rear when needed. The e-locker will handle the 39's just fine as long as you remember youre not a bouncer! And the D44 you had in the taco was weaker then the FJ80s you have now :dblthumb:

Anywho... if'n you get rid of the e-locker i call dibs :****:

TacomaJD · Dec 5, 2012

Rokcrler said:
I personally dont mind locking in the front only when im getting ready to climb, i do miss the ability to unlock the rear tho. My two previous rigs had a D300 and i ran in FWD and locked the rear when needed. The e-locker will handle the 39's just fine as long as you remember youre not a bouncer! And the D44 you had in the taco was weaker then the FJ80s you have now
Anywho... if'n you get rid of the e-locker i call dibs :****:

Yea I know the factory hilux front ends (fj60?) are about the equivalent to a D44, still maybe even stronger. FJ80 = close to a D60 as far as my knowledge goes. Haha yea I am far from a bouncer, I like coax it up ****. I don't like beating on it, that usually results in having to work on it and I'd rather wheel than work molaugh

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Aside from locking and unlocking an e locker on the trail all day long, it's also the thought of all the extra moving parts and whatnot...just more **** to tear up. Not saying that it will, because if they are as dependable as the e locking rear Taco diffs, prolly would never have any problems out of it. Idk, still got some time to think about it and do some more research and experiment with takin a flange out. It's still fun and capable on the trails, it's not like the whole leaning ordeal is knocking me out of trail riding, I just wanna get to the bottom of the problem, fix it once the right/best way, and not have to fawk with it again molaugh

ibrokeit · Dec 5, 2012

TacomaJD said:
Yea I know the factory hilux front ends (fj60?) are about the equivalent to a D44, still maybe even stronger. FJ80 = close to a D60 as far as my knowledge goes. Haha yea I am far from a bouncer, I like coax it up ****. I don't like beating on it, that usually results in having to work on it and I'd rather wheel than work .

Aside from locking and unlocking an e locker on the trail all day long, it's also the thought of all the extra moving parts and whatnot...just more **** to tear up. Not saying that it will, because if they are as dependable as the e locking rear Taco diffs, prolly would never have any problems out of it. Idk, still got some time to think about it and do some more research and experiment with takin a flange out. It's still fun and capable on the trails, it's not like the whole leaning ordeal is knocking me out of trail riding, I just wanna get to the bottom of the problem, fix it once the right/best way, and not have to fawk with it again

I killed my D44 Detroit. The factory 8" rear elocker never had a problem. :dunno:

Fix what you have a run it. It's not hard to press a button right before you hit a trail.

TacomaJD · Dec 5, 2012

ibrokeit said:
I killed my D44 Detroit. The factory 8" rear elocker never had a problem. Fix what you have a run it. It's not hard to press a button right before you hit a trail.

What if I don't wanna push a button.... :indianajones:

Neal3000 · Dec 5, 2012

I personally think a 80 series front axle is a lot better than a d44. and you can find the actuator used on ih8mud pretty reasonably to fix it. You can also sell that third member for about $500 on mud if you decide to go with a detroit.

Can you give an explaination on how a locked front end is possibly causing body flop? I've never heard of that :dunno:

ibrokeit · Dec 5, 2012

When my Detroit broke and turned into a full spool, it made a noticeable difference in body roll when turning. Not as extreme as Josh's, but noticeable.

TacomaJD · Dec 5, 2012

Neal3000 said:
I personally think a 80 series front axle is a lot better than a d44. and you can find the actuator used on ih8mud pretty reasonably to fix it. You can also sell that third member for about $500 on mud if you decide to go with a detroit.

Can you give an explaination on how a locked front end is possibly causing body flop? I've never heard of that

I would figure it would be pretty close to the same principle as how when I put it in 2wd it's very noticable that it doesn't lean as much when turning on trails. It still leans on the trails in 2wd pretty bad though, but also both front wheels are still locked together while turning inabling the axles to give into different wheel speed "needed" for smooth turning without upsetting the chassis. From 4wd to 2wd is one thing that affects body roll, so I figure the front being locked all the time no matter what, just adds an amplification factor in there? Maybe I'm totally wrong, but that sounds pretty legit to me.

cbfabwerks · Dec 5, 2012

put a small diameter sway bar on the rear like a stock jk one and your problem will the fixed i promise lol specially with air shocks and it wont limmit your flex at all will feel night an day diff :****:

TacomaJD · Dec 5, 2012

cbfabwerks said:
put a small diameter sway bar on the rear like a stock jk one and your problem will the fixed i promise lol specially with air shocks and it wont limmit your flex at all will feel night an day diff :****:

Sway bar question: The longer the upper sway bar arms are, the more flex it will allow right? I know the anti rocks have like 5 adjustable holes to adjust for susp. travel, but in the universal kits, they offer different length arms as well. It looks like longer arms would also allow for more susp travel?

halcat · Dec 5, 2012

I used the length of the arms to determine mounting points. 17 inch arms in the front and 20 inch arms in the rear. My jeep is backhalfed and with a 132 in wheelbase the axle is not close to anything! I have Rockwells and went through lions den in harlin and that one rock is higher than your head and t flexed right over it. Also do aluminum arms not steel, they look sharp. The different holes in the arms allow for stiffer or looser suspension depending he close you mount the link on the arm.

TacomaJD · Dec 5, 2012

halcat said:
I used the length of the arms to determine mounting points. 17 inch arms in the front and 20 inch arms in the rear. My jeep is backhalfed and with a 132 in wheelbase the axle is not close to anything! I have Rockwells and went through lions den in harlin and that one rock is higher than your head and t flexed right over it. Also do aluminum arms not steel, they look sharp. The different holes in the arms allow for stiffer or looser suspension depending he close you mount the link on the arm.

I'm familiar with that obstacle, so that's cool ****. Got a bunch of options on the table here.....gonna smoke em over for awhile and try to come up with a decision soon.

Neal3000 · Dec 6, 2012

The stiffness of the swaybar is determined by how much it is turned down in the middle of the bar. From my understanding on The length of the arms, they basically optimize how much leverage the swaybar will have against the body roll, you WANT to get them as long as possible. If they are real short it puts a ton of torque and twist on the swaybar. Also steel arms are less likely to strip out than the aluminum ones.

I got mine from Tony at http://www.tk1racing.com/ he gave me really good tech support on how to set it up etc. his kits are a little less than a currie but you have to weld up the arms and links yourself. He tunes the bar for your vehicle and for what you want to do with it, great guy!

tiny · Dec 6, 2012

take your spare off, It will make a difference. tune your shocks, it will make a huge difference. So will a free wheeling front end.
I think you would have made it up cable hill at fall crawl if you had left you spare at the trailer.

TacomaJD · Dec 6, 2012

tiny said:
take your spare off, It will make a difference. tune your shocks, it will make a huge difference. So will a free wheeling front end.
I think you would have made it up cable hill at fall crawl if you had left you spare at the trailer.

Also if my starter wire hadn't started screwing up, which made me run out of patience........And if I had drank about a 1/2 case less of beer molaugh

I wasn't done with the beatdown til the starter **** started.

I found a bad splice in the starter wire, re-spliced and soldered it, so no more issue with that.And had drank about a 1/2 case less of beer molaugh

Spare is definitely coming out tomorrow night, we'll see if it makes a difference at the Santa Crawls ride Saturday.

Also, just ran across a good link for universal application Antirock bars with a bunch of custom installation pics and details.
http://www.4wdandsportutility.com/tech/1106_4wd_building_a_custom_currie_antirock_sway_bar/

KyTrash · Dec 6, 2012

TacomaJD said:
What if I don't wanna push a button.... :indianajones:

Flip a switch then. :afro:

TacomaJD · Dec 6, 2012

KyTrash said:
Flip a switch then. :afro:

It's actually got a switch mounted in the glove box for it haha...something's just not working right somewhere.

TacomaJD · Dec 10, 2012

Update.

Took the spare out of the bed and that sumbitch was HEAVY! Took me and a buddy to get it out, I would say close to 150 lbs top weight relieved by removing the spare. It made a difference in the leaning while turning this weekend at Choccolocco. Still does it bad enough that I still need to find a solution to it, but it wasn't near as annoying as it had been in the past. So with that little of weight relief making a slightly noticable difference, I'm almost sold that some properly setup coilovers will fix the problem. I'm still most likely going to try to tune the air shocks first to see how much of a difference it makes though before I dive into a pricey set of coilovers.