anti wrap bar for my yota

[dove'd85]

spring bushings work good. Not as noisy as hiems, and allow for some flex.

go with the 2 mounting points on the diff, and run it to a shackle at the frame end. Try and have it match your rear spring shackle length and angle.

if i put a shackle on it won't it still wrap at the frame?

 

[Cascade_Crawler]

if i put a shackle on it won't it still wrap at the frame?

No, the force at the shackle will be a verticle force focused on the top of the shackle. The shackle setup is very common. I can snap some pictures of mine if youd like.

 

[dove'd85]

No, the force at the shackle will be a verticle force focused on the top of the shackle. The shackle setup is very common. I can snap some pictures of mine if youd like.

ya if you don't mind, i have some idea's but a few more wouldn't hurt

 

[Pook]

I'll have the camera out in the shop later tonight I'll get some pics.

 

[Pook]

heres one http://www.trail-gear.com/anti-wrap.html

I personally don't like the slip in out style the fatigue and snap off. just weld solid and add a shackle at the frame end.

 

[dove'd85]

I'll have the camera out in the shop later tonight I'll get some pics.

thanks man. hey i wheeled with your buddies sunday a reiter. mark M and stealth runner. i love the formula toy:awesomework: thanks in advance for the pics

james

 

[CrustyJeep]

Here's mine...
6" seperation at the axle, 32" in length (short). A Johnny Joint at the end, bushings at the axle. I used CJ spring bushings and they did not hold up. It's getting YJ spring bushings now. The shackle connects to the x-member with a YJ spring bushing.

It works pretty well. It pretty much eliminates torque lean and squat. However, I think it's too short because it likes to hop a little. I'd go *at least* 36" long.

The speed holes are essential for side wind performance :flipoff:

 

[Pook]

got back from work late, I'll post pics tomorrow.

 

[rickibrat2]

here is a link with some information on them i am installing the trail gear one today on my yota

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=544411

 

[dove'd85]

Here's mine...
6" seperation at the axle, 32" in length (short). A Johnny Joint at the end, bushings at the axle. I used CJ spring bushings and they did not hold up. It's getting YJ spring bushings now. The shackle connects to the x-member with a YJ spring bushing.

It works pretty well. It pretty much eliminates torque lean and squat. However, I think it's too short because it likes to hop a little. I'd go *at least* 36" long.

The speed holes are essential for side wind performance :flipoff:

thanks for the pics... do you have a shackle not only in the front but the rear upper mount?

 

[dove'd85]

here is a link with some information on them i am installing the trail gear one today on my yota

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=544411

great link! does it make a differance if i mount the shackle up or down?

 

[colemancooler]

pretty much the same thing evryone else has shown you but here is mine

I used the stock crossmember but aded a piece of 1/8" steel to bolth sides to sandwich it together after seeing people on the net damage their crossmember doing this, so far is working great

 

[crash2]

great link! does it make a differance if i mount the shackle up or down?

Either way--depends on the room you have. As long as the shackle is verticle it doesn't matter...

 

[CrustyJeep]

thanks for the pics... do you have a shackle not only in the front but the rear upper mount?

Yeah, I guess that's what you could call it. I did it to allow more adustability.

I wouldn't do it again; it was extra work, it weakens the unit against dragging on rocks, and it isn't needed.

 

[CrustyJeep]

Either way ... As long as the shackle is verticle it doesn't matter...

Ayup.

 

[Lincolnlock]

It needs to be solid mounted on the bottom with traction arm on the top of the shackle. Otherwise it will pull the springs into a bind when you hammer down. Also set up the shackle with the traction arm foward of the solid mount (just a little) so that the shackel is already where it would end up under a load. This makes a HUGE difference.

 

[CrustyJeep]

It needs to be solid mounted on the bottom with traction arm on the top of the shackle. Otherwise it will pull the springs into a bind when you hammer down.

I do believe I see what you're getting at, and you may just be on to something...

 

[Grommit327]

Well I've got bushings and a heim w/ spacers, tube adapter and jam nut on the way. Now I just need to get some 1.5 .250 dom and I'm set

 

[Pook]

It needs to be solid mounted on the bottom with traction arm on the top of the shackle. Otherwise it will pull the springs into a bind when you hammer down. Also set up the shackle with the traction arm foward of the solid mount (just a little) so that the shackel is already where it would end up under a load. This makes a HUGE difference.

why? explain this pulling the springs into a bind idea.

I have been building mine with the shackle above for a few years now on a bunch of different rigs. I always set the shackle at the same angle as the trucks spring shackles. I have no issues with any bindage and the truck flex's just as good with or with out the traction bar.

It moves in a simlar arc as the springs do when drooping compressing etc.

I do however try and line up the traction bar frame end bolt with the spring pack bolts.

 

[rickibrat2]

mine is mounts will be above the rear end tubng to keep it out of the way of rocks and other problems i keep fining,
it will go forward to a mount under the transmission mount the shackle will be what ever size i need to keep the bar level with the frame of the truck is what i was told i am using the bigger johnny joints on mine Vs the hemi joints to help control side ways twist a little better