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Atlas II builder tip

redneckengineered

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I never would have known about this or even considered it but was given this tip by the man himself (Vic from AA) when spec'ing out a new Atlas recently. He said go with no synchros. It makes for a stronger, easier to shift case. I was skeptical but took his word and boy what a difference. I now have the smoothest easiest shifting Atlas I've ever felt and I've shifted a bunch of them over the years. You can flick it in and out with a couple fingers, even when rolling.

If you're a racer and are trying to shift from low to high at speed (manual states 5-20mph) then maybe synchro's are for you. So far I've had zero downside and only upside from ditching the synchros.
 
It has gotten better recently but mine usually takes a sledge hammer and pry bar to shift. Next time i have it out i may look into this....
 
I'm assuming synchronizers are included unless specified. If requested, does the build sheet include a "syncro delete" line to indicate the omission?
 
redneckengineered said:
I never would have known about this or even considered it but was given this tip by the man himself (Vic from AA) when spec'ing out a new Atlas recently. He said go with no synchros. It makes for a stronger, easier to shift case. I was skeptical but took his word and boy what a difference. I now have the smoothest easiest shifting Atlas I've ever felt and I've shifted a bunch of them over the years. You can flick it in and out with a couple fingers, even when rolling.

If you're a racer and are trying to shift from low to high at speed (manual states 5-20mph) then maybe synchro's are for you. So far I've had zero downside and only upside from ditching the synchros.


By doing that, couldn't you convert it to an air actuated shift(I think Lovell's run them) instead of by pull handles? No more pressure on the gears/synchro's should create larger spacing. :dunno:




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redneckengineered said:
I would definitely think that would be an option if you were so inclined.


They run a small 1lb Co2 tank and an actuator. Shift on the fly without spilling a drop of your Barley Pop. :drinkers:




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CHASMAN9 said:
By doing that, couldn't you convert it to an air actuated shift(I think Lovell's run them) instead of by pull handles? No more pressure on the gears/synchro's should create larger spacing. :dunno:

Lovells have air actuated clutches in the case, totally different animal.

Talking about shifting Atlases, I'm a big fan of front digs. It gets way better with use.

After riding Patricks buggy it went from borderline impossible to shift to hard but doable.

I just bought a competition moon buggy that probably had its Atlas shifted more than any rig on this board, and you can shift it rolling or standing with 2 fingers.

Both those are the older style WITH synchro.

That said, if I where to get a new one, I'd get it without synchros as I like the simpler/less parts approach.
 
Bebop said:
Lovells have air actuated clutches in the case, totally different animal.

Talking about shifting atlases, I'm a big fan of front digs. It gets way better with use.

After riding Patricks buggy it went from borderline impossible to shift to hard but doable.

I just bought a competition moon buggy that probably had his Atlas shifted more than any rig on this board, and you can shift it rolling or standing with 2 fingers.

Both those are the older style WITH synchro.

That said, if I where to get a new one, I'd get it without synchros as I like the simpler/less parts approach.
Pics of buggy. You drove mine so im driving yours. :drinkers:
 
Bebop said:
Lovells have air actuated clutches in the case, totally different animal.


Air actuated clutches? That is way out of my league. I just figured it was similar to air shifting a transmission. Good info Enzo. thumb.gif




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redneckengineered said:
Your idea is still viable. I've seen it done on Stak cases as well as NP205s. Lots of info on homebrew setups on Pirate.

You remember there was a guy on here that had a 205 that was air shifted.
Doing something like that just seems like a good way to over complicate something as easy as manual shifters. I feel like I would have enough stuff to worry about with out that.
 
kmcminn said:
You remember there was a guy on here that had a 205 that was air shifted.
Doing something like that just seems like a good way to over complicate something as easy as manual shifters. I feel like I would have enough stuff to worry about with out that.

Yep. It was Patooyee that started the whole thing I think and even developed the kit. It was cool but had a lot going on. I guess what was nice about it was you could actuate the shifter, and if the case was in a bind it would just continue with the pressure until it shifted. With as easy as my case shifts now though, I don't see the need for it unless you just liked the cool factor.
 
Good info Redneck, I think my new is synchronized tho. I will have find spec sheet, I know I got all 300m internals. I'm hoping I have enough speed in 3rd, I won't be much shifting.
 
I have been looking on the ATLAS web site...is there somewhere that references deleting the SYNCRO's from the case?

I didn't see an option for this when using the drop downs to build a case on there web site.

And when you guys said "build sheet" is this just something you are talking about when you are ordering the case or an actual sheet with ALL of the options you can do to one of these Atlas cases?
 

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