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BeerJ's BuzzBuggy Build-o-rama!

Bebop said:
Most of the intercoms I've used have a lot of electrical noise, which is a bigger issue than exhaust.
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I've heard the same so added an audio filter as well as radio and comms grounding straps. Hopefully it helps. Been reading through a lot of Rugged's literature. A good bit of it is in regards to reducing interference and electrical noise. For instance, apparently it's a bad idea to coil up any extra antenna cable. Either route it the long way around to use up the excess or cut and shorten. Might be obvious to some but I'm brand new to this so really trying to pick up on as many tips as possible. For some stupid reason, the headsets have a different plug than the com unit. I got 12' adapter cables which would've been needed if the unit was in the dash. Now that it's between the seats, I could easily get away with a much shorter cable. Which again, would probably help eliminate noise.
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You can make/shorten your own cables.
Better have small fingers tho.

Also, the plugs can be swapped to do what you want at this moment.
 
Bebop said:
You can make/shorten your own cables.
Better have small fingers tho.

Also, the plugs can be swapped to do what you want at this moment.
Click to expand...
Yeah. I thought about just getting an adapter for the plug but I still need like 12" to run from the radio, out of the console. Would like to be able to remove the headsets when I'm not using them but won't have quick access to the back to unplug.
 
Aside from mounting the antenna, mounting the ptt buttons and tying up some dangling wires, I'm calling it done. For now. Also need to make some headset hangers. Haven't had a chance to mess with the radio but the intercom is a game changer. Had the buggy idling in the garage and my daughter and I could talk back and forth perfectly fine. Music sounds great in the headsets as well. The only thing I may address is all the excess headset cable coiled up in the console. There's a patch cable that basically acts as an adapter. Mine are 12' long, really only need about 12". Would also like flush mount ends so I can just plug the headsets into the console. Rugged said I can swap these cables and they'll cover shipping so I may do that. Also had to swap some plugs around on the wiring harness. The radio and audio filter use waterproof plugs, but the switch harness isn't waterproof. Totally different connectors. Wasn't a big job to change, just expected a little better for the coin. Also had to oval out some holes and file the switch hole bigger on the mounting bezel. Again, nbd but still annoying. Should be able to test everything out at Rausch on sunday. Also, big thanks to Bebop for pointing me right with the wiring.
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Beerj said:
Aside from mounting the antenna, mounting the ptt buttons and tying up some dangling wires, I'm calling it done. For now. Also need to make some headset hangers. Haven't had a chance to mess with the radio but the intercom is a game changer. Had the buggy idling in the garage and my daughter and I could talk back and forth perfectly fine. Music sounds great in the headsets as well. The only thing I may address is all the excess headset cable coiled up in the console. There's a patch cable that basically acts as an adapter. Mine are 12' long, really only need about 12". Would also like flush mount ends so I can just plug the headsets into the console. Rugged said I can swap these cables and they'll cover shipping so I may do that. Also had to swap some plugs around on the wiring harness. The radio and audio filter use waterproof plugs, but the switch harness isn't waterproof. Totally different connectors. Wasn't a big job to change, just expected a little better for the coin. Also had to oval out some holes and file the switch hole bigger on the mounting bezel. Again, nbd but still annoying. Should be able to test everything out at Rausch on sunday. Also, big thanks to Bebop for pointing me right with the wiring. View attachment 155213
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Where did you get the cup holder insert?
 
Beerj said:
I'm hoping for the best. My biggest concern is that I can get the VOX adjusted so it picks up voices, and not the exhaust. That said, it isn't nearly as loud inside as out.
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The capacitor filters definitely help with electrical noise. And to get the vox working without picking up engine noise and what not you basically have to put the foam of the mic touching your lips and then pull it away enough it doesn't annoy you. Make sure your talking directly into the flat side of the "lollipop". And speak firmly...like you're kids aren't paying attention but you aren't able to yell at them.
 
Warewolf SD said:
The capacitor filters definitely help with electrical noise. And to get the vox working without picking up engine noise and what not you basically have to put the foam of the mic touching your lips and then pull it away enough it doesn't annoy you. Make sure your talking directly into the flat side of the "lollipop". And speak firmly...like you're kids aren't paying attention but you aren't able to yell at them.
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This is exactly how it went down. The only thing I'll add is eventually, I found myself drawing out the beginning of the first word to give it a chance to "turn on", if that makes sense. But as long as you're keeping up normal conversation, it stays on until you stop. I must say though, it's pretty awesome. I even (unintentionally) mounted the ptt at a great spot. Basically sits right under my forearm when I have my hand on the shifter so talking over the radio is as simple as just lowering my arm a touch. But it's still far enough to avoid hitting it accidentally.
 
ridered3 said:
How'd the buggy do at Harlan?
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Same same. Ran as usual with the exception of losing an oil pressure sensor after bombing down the mountain on friday night with Bart. Luckily, I had enough help from everyone that we got my engine cage off, intake and injectors pulled, sensor swapped and all back together in probably 30 min. Looked like NHRA in front of my cabin.
 
Beerj said:
Same same. Ran as usual with the exception of losing an oil pressure sensor after bombing down the mountain on friday night with Bart. Luckily, I had enough help from everyone that we got my engine cage off, intake and injectors pulled, sensor swapped and all back together in probably 30 min. Looked like NHRA in front of my cabin.
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The NHRA pit crew sounds super fun. Hopefully they were more helpful than I was when @Bebop was working on the engine of the 1500 last year at Harlan...
 
Zjman said:
You have a twin. I was like wtf lol

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Damn, now I'm gonna have to change it up. Was actually thinking about wrapping the panels but there's a lot of variables that I'm unsure of at the moment. Color/pattern is one, and I'm not sure if it'll take the heat on the engine cover. Also, wondering if it'll get twisted wrinkles when I put the screws in. But I'm currently working on lowering the seats so it's definitely not top priority right now.
 
Small, lame update but I finally decided to address my driveshafts. Not long after I put it together, the blue plastic stuff on the splined end of the slip started puking itself out on the front driveshaft. I let it go but the last time I was out, I noticed the rear was doing the same. Both of them had a good bit of slop. Granted, they're 16x1.5 splines so I doubt they'd go anywhere soon but with the Harlan ride approaching, I'd rather not risk it. Luckily, I found some splined ends that are a little longer than my original ones so I could just chop off the old ones behind the weld instead of grinding it out to keep the original tube length. At least I gained a pair of good, spare ujoints
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Beerj said:
Small, lame update but I finally decided to address my driveshafts. Not long after I put it together, the blue plastic stuff on the splined end of the slip started puking itself out on the front driveshaft. I let it go but the last time I was out, I noticed the rear was doing the same. Both of them had a good bit of slop. Granted, they're 16x1.5 splines so I doubt they'd go anywhere soon but with the Harlan ride approaching, I'd rather not risk it. Luckily, I found some splined ends that are a little longer than my original ones so I could just chop off the old ones behind the weld instead of grinding it out to keep the original tube length. At least I gained a pair of good, spare ujointsView attachment 207704View attachment 207705 View attachment 207706
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Updates are updates so glad to see ya plugging away at it. Y'all bringing the YJ to Harlan too?
 
Beerj said:
Small, lame update but I finally decided to address my driveshafts. Not long after I put it together, the blue plastic stuff on the splined end of the slip started puking itself out on the front driveshaft. I let it go but the last time I was out, I noticed the rear was doing the same. Both of them had a good bit of slop. Granted, they're 16x1.5 splines so I doubt they'd go anywhere soon but with the Harlan ride approaching, I'd rather not risk it. Luckily, I found some splined ends that are a little longer than my original ones so I could just chop off the old ones behind the weld instead of grinding it out to keep the original tube length. At least I gained a pair of good, spare ujointsView attachment 207704View attachment 207705 View attachment 207706
Click to expand...

I may be splitting hairs here, but I'd flip those driveshafts around.
Female end at the highest point will help not retain mud/dirt in and the tube is stronger in case of the contact with a rock than the male shaft that will bend.

My 2cts.
 

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