toyotalandman
Well-Known Member
love the way the fith study turn out how thick is the steal you used for it
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Help Support Hardline Crawlers :
Blueberry Krunch
- Thread starter Mr Stubs
- Start date
I did it since I have the new 40* Longfeilds
The knuckle ball gussets would have to be ground down quite a bit to make the rings not hit them. Also the felt ring itself in the upper middle is now what makes contact on the housing. This is even after the lip was removed in those areas.
Marlin HD seals are in the axle so leaking should not be a issue. Or so I hope.
dove'd85
Well-Known Member
Hairtrigger
Member
:frown: All the build threads I was fallowing have moved here
Last edited:
Stock Toyota= 30*
Previous gen of 30-spline longs - 38*
Current gen of 30-spline longs - 40*
Stock Toy knuckle with NO felts= 41*
Read a bit on this thread......
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=461263
You have leafs up front? If so then those are the limiting factor on your steering right now, not the felts (depending on the spacing/backspacing)
dove'd85
Well-Known Member
yes i gots leafs up front
thanks for the link and info :awesomework:
thanks for the link and info :awesomework:
Put the body back on.. Hopefully for the last time....
Tore the dash apart and removed a bunch of speaker wire that the previous owner put in. The rig also sat for awhile and the blower motor was full of critter junk. I have another to replace it with.
Turbo truck dual diaphragm brake booster installed....
I hate the top two bolts on the tranny so I cut two holes in the cab for easy access. I will have to find a 1" plug for the holes now. This may not be a good mod for those who want to keep a lot of the dash stuff though.
Tore the dash apart and removed a bunch of speaker wire that the previous owner put in. The rig also sat for awhile and the blower motor was full of critter junk. I have another to replace it with.
Turbo truck dual diaphragm brake booster installed....
I hate the top two bolts on the tranny so I cut two holes in the cab for easy access. I will have to find a 1" plug for the holes now. This may not be a good mod for those who want to keep a lot of the dash stuff though.
dove'd85
Well-Known Member
lookin good
i welded chains to my motor mounts aswell as welded to the frame,
but now i am going to cut them off to raise my engine an in or so and i will probably go with some tube and bushings:redneck:
also does the turbo booster have more brake assist then say a non turbo booster?:eeek:
i welded chains to my motor mounts aswell as welded to the frame,
but now i am going to cut them off to raise my engine an in or so and i will probably go with some tube and bushings:redneck:
also does the turbo booster have more brake assist then say a non turbo booster?:eeek:
This is a tricky Q.
Booster size and MC size do not make better braking on a stock rig. Bigger is not better in stock cases. Caliper sizes, drum and caliper-caliper and caliper systems, ext all will effect how brakes work.....
A turbo booster is a dual diaphragm booster like on newer rigs due to there brake size upgrades over the years. Turbo trucks-runners were the pre-runners to the V-6 rigs.
dove'd85
Well-Known Member
so i guess your saying it doesn't make a differance then? so why change from a non turbo booster to a turbo one:eeek:.... not that it matters but i am running chev 1/2 calipers in the rear, stock 85 brakes up front, a 1in master cyl, and a summit/willwood perportioning vavle, and 37-39in tires, would a turbo booster help me stop quicker, note my truck stops on a dime as it is, rear disk was one of the best mods i ever put on my truck
It makes a difference, but only when you start to mix and match different sizes and styles of brake components.so i guess your saying it doesn't make a differance then? so why change from a non turbo booster to a turbo one:eeek:.... not that it matters but i am running chev 1/2 calipers in the rear, stock 85 brakes up front, a 1in master cyl, and a summit/willwood perportioning vavle, and 37-39in tires, would a turbo booster help me stop quicker, note my truck stops on a dime as it is, rear disk was one of the best mods i ever put on my truck
You may need a booster upgrade if you replace the stock 85 calipers to the larger 4 piston IFS calipers.
Read this thread..... a few explain it much better than I.
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=763888&highlight=brakes
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=763888&highlight=brakes
dove'd85
Well-Known Member
dove'd85
Well-Known Member
i was told/read that basiclly you want the traction bar to mount in line with the front spring mounts on the rear springs, why would longer be better?
After reading this http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=721603&highlight=anti+wrap+bar (post #10) It seemed to make sense to me.
Pushing a end wrench (tightening/loosening) at a 180* angle is easier than one at 90* right? The more angle the easier it is to move.
You get more leverage with a longer pry bar right? Longer will put more leverage against the axle to keep it from moving.
dove'd85
Well-Known Member
You get more leverage with a longer pry bar right? Longer will put more leverage against the axle to keep it from moving.[/QUOTE]
true but in the case of a trac bar this seams irrelavent i say that because there is little to no movement in a trac bar other then the shackle/ends, i am no expert, we could debate this till no end, haha :redneck:
anyways the trac bar looks goo man, are you going to make one for the front, welds look purdy to:awesomework:
true but in the case of a trac bar this seams irrelavent i say that because there is little to no movement in a trac bar other then the shackle/ends, i am no expert, we could debate this till no end, haha :redneck:
anyways the trac bar looks goo man, are you going to make one for the front, welds look purdy to:awesomework:
