buggy bug

[1TONZR2]

well, its pretty official, I have been bitten. you fawkers and your buggies dont help my wallet at all.
After last weekend at Windrock, nearly rolling down the mountain a couple of times, I decided that I need to do something that will protect me a little more than what a cab will....especially if I keep wheeling the places that I do. I have tossed around the idea of just making my truck into a truggy, cutting the back off, adding a **** pile of tube and a cage on the inside of the cab, since I really dont like the looks of exo's all around the front part of the cab. then I start thinking, if I am going to throw that much tube at my truck, why not throw it into a buggy that I will be able to beat on SAFELY. Luckily, the wife does see my point on this.....
I have been searching around for some bare bones chassis's and came across the 4Play by Bent Fab. It is designed as a 4 seater, but I would make it an "extended cab" 2 seater. I have been emailing Tim back and forth about what can be done with this chassis and I really like his options so far. we talked about moving the seat mounts back some since I am FAR from average height, then using the space that would have been for the back seat as storage for a cooler/tools/spare crap. Here is the thread about his 4Play chassis---http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=664394
To me, the price for this chassis is pretty damn reasonable. I would love to spend less on a chassis, but I dunno if it will happen. I have already started a list of parts that I would need to make this chassis into a full blown badass buggy...IMO I might need some advice on what kind of parts you guys have had luck with and what is junk. I am sure I will be getting some parts from Kelly, atleast I hope so.
here is a list of what I need so far:
Chassis
new engine harness
custom fuel cell
DPI 14” struts
Atlas 3.8
drive shafts
steering wheel
non adjustable column kit
WW-340-1290 single MC, high volume, .75” bore
skid material
skins and hood material
brake lines--nylon kit from Speedway
fuel lines
5 point harness
cutting brakes?
new hydro hoses (local)

here is what I have:
5.3L V8
4L60E
42x14x17 IROKs on TRs
Dana 60 front chromo 35 spline inner/outer
Dana 60 rear (getting a 70 soon I hope) w/ disc brakes
PRP seats
B&M pro stick shifter
RCI fuel cell
Warn 9.5ti
Howe dual pass radiator w/ taurus fan
Full hydro steering kit
16" SAW coilovers

I am thinking about using 7075 for my lowers and 1.5" DOM for the uppers. what about link ends? I am currently using 3/4x3/4 in the front 3/4x5/8 in the rear. should I upgrade to a rebuildable joint? will one of those rebuildable joints fit in the link mounts already on the axle?

Thanks

Brian

 

[Bones]

square tube frame rails look like poo IMO. The rest has good lines

 

[1TONZR2]

I kinda like the look of those, but you really wont see much of it anyway. This is the first chassis that I have inquired about and in no way set in stone about buying it. Tim has been very helpful with the questions I have asked.

 

[InDaShop]

Hell yeah.

So you are wanting Strut front, C/O rear. Good start.
Didnt you just buy 5 points?

Fuel line....run hose the whole way there and back.

Links go 7075 all the way around. all of my links weigh less than just Kellys rear lowers IIRC.

I'd go with the biggest you can afford 1" or 1.25" rod ends

You'll want a rear suckdown winch.

And count on material to do your interior panels out of.

Looks like you've got a good handle on whats needed.

 

[P]

As many years as you've spent tweaking and changing the truck Im almost scared to ask what the completion date on your buggy would be !


Sounds like have most of it lined up.. You have alot of really nice parts on your truck so re-using alot of it will save considerable money in your build. Im pretty much sold on rebuildable ends... especially if this is a long term vehicle which I assume it would be just knowing your background.

Either way, it will come down to time and budget so you'll have to decide were you want to be on that as much as anything.

Good luck and keep us posted cool stuff either way !

 

[1TONZR2]

as of right now, this is nothing but research. I may end up like MattO....buy sell build sell buy...
if I could get going on a buggy and have most of the expensive parts purchased, I wouldnt think it would take too long....maybe a 5-6 days.......well, maybe not, my last name is campbell...LOL
This rig would definately be a long term ride and I would like to maybe compete in a few XRRA events, to show you boys how to wheel. :afro:

I was planning on 14" struts in the front and my current coilovers in the rear.

rubber fuel injection hose? cheap and easy...kinda like P

aluminum uppers as well? same size?

I like the rebuildables. I had them on my very first setup and they worked pretty good...but the 1 or 1.25s would prolly be fine. I need to price that kind of stuff out.

cheap warn or harbor freight winch? lol

I knew about the panels for the interior, just kinda forgot to add them.

Brian

 

[vanguard]

My thoughts in random order:

* If I was starting from scratch I'd run johnny joints on my uppers and lowers. I run 2" x .250" lowers and they have taken a bend after a couple years but I just keep running them. I could see going cromo with them if that's going to bother you but it's not strictly required on a rig under 3500 lbs (according to me). I currently run 3/4" heims on my uppers but after you buy the jam nuts, misalignment spacers, etc. you don't save any money. Also, if you buy pre-fab brackets everything is the world comes in 2 5/8" for johnny joints, jimmy joints, evolution joints, etc. For 3/4" heims you have to set the width yourself.

* It would be nice to avoid the custom fuel cell if you could. It just seems like metal fuel cells have issues with cracking, leaking, etc. and being one of a kind would stink. I'd guess you'll want about 12 gallons with that motor.

* I'm happy not to have a rear suckdown winch. So far my rear limit strap has made me happy and it was nearly free, weighs a few ounces, and it has no packaging issues.

* I've been told that supermarket butchers throw away their giant cutting boards every month or so. I wonder if that could be a source for skid plate material?

* This steering wheel disconnect has always worked for me. If it melted today I'd just get the same thing again. I use mine a lot because I can't really get in or out with the steering wheel attached.

* Consider tool storage early on in the project. Unless you only go to places where you wheel right by the tow rig (gray rock, crozet, DPG, etc.) you'll want to have your tools with you. Also, you need a place for the tree saver/tow strap.

* I think corbeau seats are the best buy out there. After sitting in mastercraft, PRP, Hunsucker, Beard, and corbeau seats I decided that only corbeau and PRPs "hugged" my sides enough. After seeing both PRP and corbeau seats wears for a few years I'm not convinced there is much of a quality difference at all.

* If I was starting from scratch I'd make sure the radiator wasn't right next to the seats. I do like the warm air sometimes (and I just reverse the fan for summer) but the noise is a pita.


Hopefully something in there had some value.

 

[P]

I have the same steering wheel disco... got it from a roundy round track place ..

I think speedway has thema nd you can save a lil money IIRC

 

[BamaTJ]

Sounds like a plan Bryan, I was thinking about AL links on my jeep and the actual weight savings is not that much about 5-6lbs per link. I would go with .375 DOM lowers and .250 uppers and save money. Much cheaper and not worth the cost to lose 30-40lbs

 

[InDaShop]

I use this one front Speedway $17.99
I have two. One for my wheel, and a second for the "T-bar" for the passenger.

 

[1TONZR2]

Van- I already have the PRPs, so thats what I am going to use, no reason to buy new ones. I think I will stick with my current fuel cell, just to save money. it will work fine for me.
I found a cheaper steering wheel on speedway, but no disco. EDIT: Wyatt you da man.... I will check my local shop to see what they have. I know they have it cheaper.
I have been tossing around the links all day. I think I might just try and scavenge my current links if possible. the front lowers are 1.5" .25 wall DOM sleeved with 1.75 HREW, the rear lowers are 2" .25 wall DOM, I believe...uppers are 1.5" .25 wall DOM

I dont think the rear winch would be need, it could be a good thing if I were going to compete alot, but I dont think it is necessary, a rear limit will work fine.

I will goto the local butcher and see what he has. I doubt they have anything big enough, unless I made the skids mulit piece.

the T-bar is a great idea as well. do most people like to use them?

 

[Marty]

Hope I am not gonna be the only one on here with a fullsize.......by then again theres always 3 tons o Fun....his counts

 

[1TONZR2]

as 2 rigs!

 

[Marty]

as 2 rigs!

Haha, thats right. I will say he has to be a kickass driver to wheel that big girl

 

[vanguard]

I use this one front Speedway $17.99
I have two. One for my wheel, and a second for the "T-bar" for the passenger.

That's the kind I used to have until I left my steering wheel on the hood of my buggy and towed it home. It was always reliable but for an extra $13 I like the kind I linked to more. I've payed a lot more for stuff that's made less of a difference but it's kind of a personal preference thing. They also sell this kind with all the splines: http://polyperformance.com/shop/Splined-Steering-Wheel-Quick-Disconnect-p-17004.html

I'm not sure who would buy that. Maybe if your steering is so perfect that you can have just the right part of the steering wheel at the top while you're going straight you'll want something that's more adjustable than a hex fitting? In my case I don't even bother with that. I tend to wheel with a bunch of first gen toyotas so I'm always hustling to get the harnesses on, master power, ignition, cooling fan, steering wheel, fuel pump, and etc. ready while they just slide in turn the key and go.

 

[wngrog]

4Play by Bent Fab. It is designed as a 4 seater, but I would make it an "extended cab" 2 seater.

I like his work too. I was looking at his webpage and you can tell he takes pride in his work. That is about $1000 less than most are charging for a chassis these days.

I would look at the Rogue Quattro too. That is a wicked cool chassis.


Chassis-See comment above

new engine harness-Jim's Performance is your friend

custom fuel cell-Why go custom? Stick a Summit plastic 10-12 gallon cell back there and peel out

DPI 14” struts-What are your plans with the buggy? If I were strickly rockcrawling with little long distance fast stuff, I would do 2.5" air shocks and save the jingle

Atlas 3.8-Get it

drive shafts-Go local with this, shipping is a killer

steering wheel-PSC

non adjustable column kit-PSC

WW-340-1290 single MC, high volume, .75” bore-polyperformance.com or cnc.com, I prefer CNC over Wilwood myself

skid material-Plastic?

skins and hood material-KORE Rogue Quattro has cool hood and skins IMO

brake lines--nylon kit from Speedway

fuel lines Summit

5 point harness -Summit

cutting brakes-CNC

new hydro hoses (local)

here is what I have:
5.3L V8
4L60E
42x14x17 IROKs on TRs
Dana 60 front chromo 35 spline inner/outer
Dana 60 rear (getting a 70 soon I hope) w/ disc brakes-Why not just build the 60 since you have it and the brakes already?
PRP seats
B&M pro stick shifter
RCI fuel cell-Why not re-use this?
Warn 9.5ti
Howe dual pass radiator w/ taurus fan
Full hydro steering kit
16" SAW coilovers-I would buy 2 more of these and leave the "struts" to the racers unless you are planning on racing. Most low buggys run 14" coilovers in the front at least

I am thinking about using 7075 for my lowers and 1.5" DOM for the uppers. what about link ends? I am currently using 3/4x3/4 in the front 3/4x5/8 in the rear. should I upgrade to a rebuildable joint? will one of those rebuildable joints fit in the link mounts already on the axle?

I went with Branik Motorsports for all of my links and rod ends. I did 2" 7075 with 1 1/4 QA1 heims on the lowers and 3/4 QA1 heims on 1.5" 7075 uppers I used to like rebuildable joints until I got my first set of QA1 (read quality) heim joints, The ones i used in the past were cheap and made me switch to rebuildable stuff. Either way, Branik will hook you up

Thanks

Brian

[/quote]

 

[InDaShop]

I went with Branik Motorsports for all of my links and rod ends. I did 2" 7075 with 1 1/4 QA1 heims on the lowers and 3/4 QA1 heims on 1.5" 7075 uppers I used to like rebuildable joints until I got my first set of QA1 (read quality) heim joints, The ones i used in the past were cheap and made me switch to rebuildable stuff. Either way, Branik will hook you up

The only thing I would add is Kelly can hook you up with the links and the rodends cheaper than Branik.

I actually bought the taps for my brother-in-law to run them on their machines (hydraulics business). Kelly uses him to tap everything. Kelly's 7075 hookup was $12 a foot cheaper than the best price I found in Texas.

 

[1TONZR2]

Nolen, thanks for the ideas.

I believe I will use my current RCI fuel cell, just to save some money. no biggie really.
the rear 60 is an old 16 spline version with small axle tubes and spindles, plus it is slightly bent....atleast it looks like it.....thinkin about a 14B shaved down, unless my buddy comes through with a 35 spline 60, so we will see.
I would like to race some, but not sure how much. I want to see what some other peoples thoughts are on the struts. I just like the idea of them keeping everything in one package, easier to put on a chassis and prolly cost about the same as buying coilovers/sway bar/bumps.....I guess I need some more feed back on them before a decision is made.
I like some of the stuff KORE has, but I cant drive a jeep...LOL I am sure it is a pimp buggy, but not for me. personal preference.
the links are still up in the air. the aluminum would be nice.....
my current heims are QA1 and FK, those cheap brand types dont last for ****.

Brian

 

[rock mafia]

"pimping on" I can build you a four seat chassis for a few hundred less than that, no square tube "pimping off"

Sounds like a pretty good starting list. Don't forget all the bs at the end that winds up costing you $50-100 trips to the parts store for days on end.

 

[wngrog]

"pimping on" I can build you a four seat chassis for a few hundred less than that, no square tube

:afro: