Bumps Stops and how you have them set up....

rpf500 · Sep 8, 2014

Guys,

I can't afford air bumps at this time. I need to add some type of bumps stops though. With my rig being 4 linked it's a little more difficult than adding normal YJ bumps back to the frame. I plan to change the suspension some this winter, so that is another reason to not buy air bumps yet.

TacomaJD sent me a pic of his and they looked like a good option for my front. The rear I am struggling with still. The PO had an "exo cage" type bar following the fender line and that was his "bump stop". I added comp corners and removed the bar that didn't look nor work well for bumps. On the front he had bumps set up off the frame that hit the top of the lower link. I don't really like that idea but maybe it's a good idea, not sure??

Also, I see a lot of center placed single limit straps. I have (1) on each corner currently. Both of which need to be shorter. Can I go with (1) in the center or do you all run (1) on each corner. I will get some close up pics tonight. I will try to post some random ones I have on my computer now.

rpf500 · Sep 8, 2014

Here is one with the "bump stop bar"

rpf500 · Sep 8, 2014

I don't have any pics relevant to what I am asking. I will have to take some. Here is a pic with the new corners. I would guess with that bar being gone, I have 2-3 more inches of up travel. Again, I plan to redo some stuff and lower it this winter so an effective, simple, cheap solution would be best for me right now.

clemsonjeep · Sep 8, 2014

I would build some that resemble air bumps. What I mean is I'd build some mounts that are setup just like what you'd buy for air bumps...just take a piece of tube...cut a slit down the length of it and then weld some nuts on to provide a "clamp". Then use the same diameter tube as the air bumps would be...and then just mount a small round rubber/poly bushing to the bottom of it. This way they are adjustable for now and when you lower it this winter...without having to redo them once you lower it hopefully...AND...if you decide to go to air bumps later on you'll be ready to go.

rpf500 · Sep 8, 2014

clemsonjeep said:
I would build some that resemble air bumps. What I mean is I'd build some mounts that are setup just like what you'd buy for air bumps...just take a piece of tube...cut a slit down the length of it and then weld some nuts on to provide a "clamp". Then use the same diameter tube as the air bumps would be...and then just mount a small round rubber/poly bushing to the bottom of it. This way they are adjustable for now and when you lower it this winter...without having to redo them once you lower it hopefully...AND...if you decide to go to air bumps later on you'll be ready to go.

Kinda of like this I assume?

LightBnDr · Sep 8, 2014

I'm a bit lighter than you but this works well for me. The vertical bar that has a plug in it used to be my bump but running them that far in-board on my old truss, when I articulated fully on one corner the axle swung away from the bump putting all the pressure on my air shock and mounts. Make sense?

I use just a 3/8 threaded poly bump from o'reilly.

clemsonjeep · Sep 8, 2014

Yeah similar to those...but I'd go with a smaller round bump like the ones in the pic posted by LightBnDr.

RustyC · Sep 8, 2014

I just built some this past weekend. I get pics and post up this afternoon.

Mr. leafspring · Sep 8, 2014

poly performance sells mok up bumps or budget bumps that's what I used till got air bumps a few weeks ago same mounts same dimensions jus no air !!! reasonable priced :dblthumb:

TacomaJD · Sep 8, 2014

Why do you say you need shorter limit straps on the ones you have on the outsides? Lots of people's opinions vary, but my opinion of if you are running limit straps on the sides, they need to pull tight, as your shocks are at full droop, limiting your shocks themselves from pulling apart when one side is at full droop...Any shorter, then you limit your down travel less than what your shock is capable of, and why would you want to do that? but if they are too long, longer than shock travel lets each side droop, then yes they need to be shortened.

As for center limit strap, I run one on my rear end that will only let the rear end droop about 2-3 inches from ride height in the center before it pulls tight. I use my winch on the front to suck the front end down and currently ride with it pretty tight. I run no side limit straps.

Honestly, all that **** is not as big of a deal on a crawl machine as it would be on a bouncer. But I remember your rear shocks are mounted to where a lot of shaft is showing at ride height, which means it wouldn't take as much to max out their travel and possibly pull them apart.

I also don't run bumps on my rear end. I would say before you go through all this trouble fabbing up bumps and whatnot for your rear end, you need to redo the shock mounts. Get them right, then you may not even need bumps in the rear.

TacomaJD · Sep 8, 2014

Rear center limit straps are great and need to be close to tight at ride height. This is a big help on preventing the rearend from unloading when going off of steep hills or ledges.

rpf500 · Sep 8, 2014

TacomaJD said:
Why do you say you need shorter limit straps on the ones you have on the outsides? Lots of people's opinions vary, but my opinion of if you are running limit straps on the sides, they need to pull tight, as your shocks are at full droop, limiting your shocks themselves from pulling apart when one side is at full droop...Any shorter, then you limit your down travel less than what your shock is capable of, and why would you want to do that? but if they are too long, longer than shock travel lets each side droop, then yes they need to be shortened.

As for center limit strap, I run one on my rear end that will only let the rear end droop about 2-3 inches from ride height in the center before it pulls tight. I use my winch on the front to suck the front end down and currently ride with it pretty tight. I run no side limit straps.

Honestly, all that **** is not as big of a deal on a crawl machine as it would be on a bouncer. But I remember your rear shocks are mounted to where a lot of shaft is showing at ride height, which means it wouldn't take as much to max out their travel and possibly pull them apart.

I also don't run bumps on my rear end. I would say before you go through all this trouble fabbing up bumps and whatnot for your rear end, you need to redo the shock mounts. Get them right, then you may not even need bumps in the rear.

Good thoughts guys. On the front straps, I have them set where I feel is really good. About 1/2" from full droop and they are really tight. I would assume in "real world" they will stretch some so that 1/2" may not be enough but atleast the shock won't take ALL the pressure.
In the rear they are atleast 4" too long. I can relocate them for the time being so they are not a huge deal. The bumps in the rear are a little more important simply because I don't want my tire getting into those corners. You are correct on the rear shocks too. I was able to get my rig "level" at 5" shaft in front, but still have 7.5"-8" in the rear so it's not too long until they are at full droop. (14) travel CO's.

After the recent repainting of this thing, along with some other odds and ends, I am ready to wheel. I need to just get motivated and redo the rears and be done with it, but I am not there yet. The more I look at it and try to tell myself that it's a "Saturday" job, I know in my mind that on Wednesday night I will still be ****ing with it. That is just how it goes.

TacomaJD · Sep 8, 2014

IF you got your rear shocks remounted to where you only had 4-5" of uptravel, your tires would probably not get into your fender wells and you wouldn't need bumps. But yes, fabbing some bumps up now would be a temporary fix for the meantime...but ulitmately extra work when you know the shock mounts need to be redone. Then you'll have to modify bump stops once again.

RustyC · Sep 8, 2014

Off the shelf air bump cans, 2" tube capped on the bottom with 1/4" plate. hole drilled and rubber bump with a stud mounted from the bottom. Adjustable too.
Easy to upgrade to air bumps as well.

nhl_bullitt · Sep 8, 2014

TacomaJD said:
IF you got your rear shocks remounted to where you only had 4-5" of uptravel, your tires would probably not get into your fender wells and you wouldn't need bumps.

The issue with that is getting the rig off the trail if there is catastrophic failure to a shock mounting point, or shock in general. In my case I should be able to drive out on my bumpstops if something like that were to happen.

TacomaJD · Sep 8, 2014

nhl_bullitt said:
The issue with that is getting the rig off the trail if there is catastrophic failure to a shock mounting point, or shock in general. In my case I should be able to drive out on my bumpstops if something like that were to happen.

That's not something that happens very often in the crawling world, unless the welds on the mount brackets are shitty or not strong enough...but is a good point.