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Center limit strap question

TacomaJD

TacomaJD

I LIKE CHEAP STUFF.....
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Ok so I went from 18" Fox 2.0's to 16" Fox 2.5's on the rear of my rig. Just took it for a test drive around the yard and I can tell it is a LOT more stable than before. It leans driver pretty bad but not as bad as before, but the reason for this I'm sure is because these 2.5's came off of opposite ends of Brandon Dillon's buggy. So I imagine the one that came off the front has a lot more nitrogen in it than the other from when it was tuned to support more weight. As far as leaning toward passenger side, it's awesome, no complaints....but I wonder if it will lean more that way after I up the nitrogen level in the driver side shock to try and get em equal? Who knows, anyways....on to my question.

After I got the 2.5's on, it sat a couple inches higher in the rear. It already sat about 2 inches higher in the rear than the front before I put the 2.5's on it, so it's even higher now. Before the 2.5's, the center limit strap on the rearend used to have some slack in it sitting on level ground even sitting 2" higher in the rear. Now it's pretty close to having no slack on level ground, but it's way too high. So I've ratcheted it down to level and am thinking about ordering a shorter limit strap to hold it level with the front, and in turn hope that adds stability holding more downforce on the shocks and I can run more psi of nitrogen like is in them now without it affecting ride height. If I can get the driver's side as stable as the passenger side is now, I'll be satisfied as ****!

Below I will post some pics of my limit strap. I've never ordered a limit strap before, what are the lengths measured off of? The actual strap length, not including end buckles? Center hole to center hole of the buckles? Overall length or what? The strap not counting the buckles on my strap is 18" and I want one about 2 or 3" shorter. Want to make sure where the measurements are taken from before I order one.

Thanks! :drinkers:
 
Re: Re: Center limit strap question

Here is my strap measured from the woven belt portion only, not counting end buckle. Measures pretty close to 18"
za5a3yze.jpg


Here is measuring from center hole to center hole
3upenazy.jpg


Here is as it sits with it ratcheted down close to where I want it to sit at
y2u9y9a2.jpg


u5adypa4.jpg


Limit strap off, only ratched down
3u9yhapy.jpg


nura7ase.jpg
 
I'm no expert on shocks or anything, but that sounds like the most ****ed up way to try to bandaid your suspension ever.

I'd start with putting the same amount of oil in each shock (to get your ramp rates the same, or maybe even tuning it with more oil in the pass side shock to increase ramp rate and fight torque roll)

and charging the shocks properly.


If the center limit is tight at ride height, I'll guarantee that it'll ride like **** on the trail at anything more than crawling... because you'll have no down travel or "give" in the suspension.


And, basic physics makes me think that pre-compressing the suspension that is trying to extend, will make it unload/lean even MORE.



in fact, if you want to make a wheelin trip up to GMP, one weekend, I'd bring the oil, nitrogen, and tools to try to help tune your shocks just for my own learning/experience...
 
Re:

My theory is since upping the nitrogen level in the one shock is the simplest tuning factor that I can tweak first, why not try it and limit it down and see what happens? If that don't work and rides like ass, or rolls worse, then start messing with the oil or valving.

Idk, I'm just brainstorming here. Regardless, I'm taking it out next weekend and I'll know more about how it rides as it stands now in terms of leaning and stiffness.
 
I would say if there charged different ya but i partially disagree with Nick but using a limit strap to suck down the rear would be no different than using a winch to suck down the front I believe it be fine I'd leave the 18in strap tho other wise tuning them for your rig would be best
 
Re:

And I def want to try to keep the passenger side stiffer to prevent torque roll, when I figure out whatever I have to do to end up getting everything worked out.

I feel pretty confident that I can tear the shock apart and change the valving and oil levels if it comes down to that. Will just have to find someone with a nitrogen set up.... *cough cough, Mo* lol
 
Re:

I may order a 15" strap and strap it down before riding next weekend just to see what happens. May bring the 18" strap also and change it halfway through the day just to see the difference in leaning with the varied rear ride height.
 
I'd let some nitro out until it sits level with the front and leave the orginal strap. Less PSI=less roll
 
You are putting the cart before the horse. You need to start off getting them both set up the same (valving, oil, nitrogen level).
 
Re:

TacomaJD said:
And I def want to try to keep the passenger side stiffer to prevent body roll from fat chicks, when I figure out whatever I have to do to end up getting everything worked out.

I feel pretty confident that I can tear the shock apart and change the valving and oil levels if it comes down to that. Will just have to find someone with a nitrogen set up.... *cough cough, Mo* lol
Click to expand...
Fixed it for ya!

My center rear limit strap is tight. Instead of spending any money twist it a **** load of times and reinstall it. This will make it shorter and you can try it out befroe you buy one.
 
For the record I also think this is a suckass idea...........But you could also use a piece of chain till you figure out what length you want
 
I'm cheep so I just use a length of chain inside a chunk of heater hose split long ways in a few places so it will flex and not bang clank around. Seem to work fine for me and don't have bunch of cash in straps ..
 
I don't know much about shocks but when I had my crawler with air shocks in the rear adding more oil helped with the tendency to roll.....there used to be a write somewhere on here that helped me with mine
 
Re: Re: Re: Center limit strap question

Nuts said:
I'd let some nitro out. Less PSI=less roll
Click to expand...

If this is true, I may try letting some out. I figured the more psi, the stiffer it would be, like how stiff the passenger side is now. I confirmed the shock I put on the passenger side is the one that was on the front of his buggy.

And it may be a suckass idea, that's why I posted here....to get feedback since I clearly am not a shock technician. Until I am fully educated in how tweeking different things on air shocks will affect it in the end, it probably won't be the last suckass idea I have.
 
That thread talks about flipping the valving in some cases and it being the answer. say mine are 40/90, flip the valve stacks and have 90/40. I've always wondered why it would make sense to have so little compression valving and so much rebound anyways? Maybe it works great on most, but maybe my case is different since my truck is a lot taller than most rigs belly clearance wise, and leaf sprung front? Still brainstorming here....you know, with my ****-ass ideas.

Quote from the pirate thread I posted above:
[[ I just decided to "quote" this post... since this suggestion was right on the money. I've since moved on to coilovers, but when I ran airshocks 90/40 was about the valving I ended up when all was said and done and it was great! ]]

And this was the post he mentioned quoting:
[[ My suggestion...

Leave the oil alone for now.

Change the valving. I have a 3,000 to 3,200 pound car and it rode awfull with stock valving. Fox 2.5, 14 inch travel.

I asked alot of questions and went with what Hendrix said to do. Reverse the valving.

Stock is 40/90. I went to 90/40 in the front and I believe ended up with 90/30.
The rear I believe we ended up with 60/30. But just added a sway bar and that made a huge difference.

Sounded weird at first but it is a world of difference and works great!

Use the stock oil setting, I think suggested over stock is only 20-40cc.
Use nitrogen to set your ride height. ]]


....Best I can gather, revalving is where the most drastic changes come from, so maybe I need to do that instead of wasting time adding oil, recharging, trying it...then that not be right and have to add a little more oil, recharge and do it again....maybe even a couple more times, only to find out adjusting the oil may help in various small incriments, but still doesn't solve the problem? Opinions? I'm just thinking out loud here. :dblthumb:
 
Maybe not as drastic of a change as flipping the valving completely, but maybe even going to something like 70/50. I mean there's so many valving options, during my researching on the web, I've seen all sorts of different valving work for different rigs. 80/80, 50/80, obviously the 90/40, etc. :dunno:
 

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