Cheap jeep 3-link

[torkliftrob]

Gather 'round and listen to my story.

For the last couple years, I've been listening to my goofy neighbor whine about me not having a 4x. He's a 'yota guy, which is fine, but I'm a hot rodder. I gotta do it with some style. Even in the mud, ya gotta have some class.
So, last summer, I found a '53 M38A1 w/ a 350, D30 front, FJ40 rear and a working heater (that's what sold it for the wife). We took it out 9 times and broke 8. Everything from leaf springs to elect. fires. It was a continual train-wreck with brief periods of fun. The rear end always felt like it was a bump away from parting and, 'cause of the axle-wrap, the clutch wouldn't have missed it, if it did.
Here's what it looked like:

 

[Gaylord]

ummmm weres the story? I am solving my 3b axle wrap with a center located traction bar. Atleast I think I am. I will decide after you post your story.....:corn:

 

[torkliftrob]

Hold your horses. I had to "drop the kids at the pool". Also, I have a crappy signal out here in E-town. Plus, my wife wants me to do stuff now that I'm home (I have to sneak in posts).

So, after considerable frustration over the breakages, we had a family meeting. I told the kids that we could build a jeep that we all could enjoy if everyone lent a hand (at least that was the plan). We have 3 boys. They all were for the overhaul.

The day after X-mas, we rented the neighbor's garage (the same one that talked me into buying a 4x) and in 5 hours (and a case of beer) there was nothing left but the frame, engine and front axle.

I started the project by selling the stock 3-spd, x-fer and Warn OD. Then I traded (craigslist) the treadmill (that was sitting in the loft of the barn) for a th350 & 205.
Then, I started cutting & welding. 1st, I built a truss on the FJ40 rearend, welded the spiders and made 3-link mounts out of 5/16" that I dual-shield welded on. The truss is 1x2" tube boxed in w/ 16ga sheet metal.

 

[JOOP]

and then?????:corn:

 

[torkliftrob]

Total build so far: $0 (w/ $350 in the pot).

I have a buddy who is a pipe fitter and I asked him for something strong for my lower links. The next day, he dropped off a couple chunks of 3" schedule 180 (I've never even seen 180. I could use them for cannon barrels).
While I was waiting, I boxed the frame w/ 1/4" plate.

I bought 4 Procomp bushings for the end of the lowers, 3 1" tractor heims and 4 3/4" weld in tractor heims. I know what you're thinking rb: :redneck & don't jump ship on me yet. I've been around tractors all my life and I've never seen a tractor joint fail (we can argue later).

Anyway, I also bought 6 nuts for the joints. I welded one nut into each tube and a piece of pipe on the other (like a T) for the bushings. The extra nuts were for jam-nuts and the wishbone. Then, I rolled it under the frame.

Ok, the wife busted me. I'll have to post more tomorrow or later, when she falls asleep (viva la jeep! )

 

[Gaylord]

and then?????:corn:

Either us Bemerton folk are impatient or them Enumscratch boys are super slow.

Tork,
Just messin with ya. I have no room to talk I graduated from Whiteriver..lol.

I'll leave ya alone on the tractor joints others will tell you about those but that pipe you used will dent and bend much easier when it hits a rock than DOM. Theres a reason they call it "poop pipe".

 

[torkliftrob]

Uh, dent? it's like 1/2" thick. DOM would pretzel before this stuff would even flex. I was more concerned about the excessive weight of it. Under a 2-ton, maybe there could be a problem. There's only one way to really test it. Get it airborne! That's later.

Where was I? Axle under the frame. Then, I made the frame mounts for the lower links.
BTW- I didn't just weld this junk together from pix I saw in mags. I read a ton on 3 & 4 links and then calculated SEVERAL different designs & considered how they'd handle. I decided on a triangulated 3-link as I figured that would work for the terrain I'm in (mostly mud & trails w/ some rocks) and how I wanted it to handle (I don't like the feel of a loose rig but I didn't want a mud racer either). There are several free 3 & 4 link calculators on the web. My wishbone is 70% of my lowers and the lowers are 4'. It's a longer than usual set up but I'm glad I did it (more on that later).
So, back to the lower mounts; I used 2x2" square tube welded to the bottom of the frame, then added 2x2" angle under that for the brackets. The inside is gusseted and the outside has a 1/4" plate that not only braces it but it covers up, what would otherwise look like a bunch of stuff welded together (strength was the main focus but even a redneck has some pride). Most of this was welded with a stick welder & 6013 & 7018 rod. Anything I wanted to look pretty (and wasn't structural) got the MIG.
I took this pic after I painted it. The reflection of the flash makes the welds look bad but they're okay (and what you can see isn't structural).

 

[torkliftrob]

Then, I built the 3-link. I basically copied the ProComp wishbone (only mine is ugly). The joint is screwed all the way out for painting, I'm not running it like that.

 

[torkliftrob]

The tube on the wishbone was bent using one of those Cosco benders that someone gave me for free.

Next, I made the frame mounts for the wishbone. I made that out of 4" channel, 5/16" plate (where the bolts go through) and I gusseted it all over the place (since this will take some punishment). You can see the mounts in overhead pix I'll post later.

Now that this was done, I could bolt the rear end in and start twisting it up. I jacked it, squatted it, twisted during squat, etc. Nothing even came close to contact (what a relief).

 

[torkliftrob]

I found some 4Runner springs on ebay for $10 and made spring perches out of pure scrap metal I found laying around.

More tomorrow. I'm falling aslee.I'll keep you posted,

 

[torkliftrob]

Once the springs in, I twisted, lifted & squatted again. Everything was fine (kinda to my surprise).
This is how it looked at this stage:

Now that it would sit w/o jacks, it was time to roll it out for more testing (I picked it up with the tractor bucket and dropped it from about 4' a couple times). You can get a better look at the wishbone set-up in the 2nd pic:

 

[torkliftrob]

Everything w/ gloss black is new. Notice how all of it ties together (upper links to lower to x-member). Also, yes, those are hockey pucks I'm using for body mounts. I got a screaming deal on them on ebay (I even have a bunch left over I can sell on craigslist).
The tally at this point:
1" joints: $15/ea x3 =$45
3/4" joints $5/ea x2 =$10
Pro Comp bushings =$10
1" pins (5 @ $3/ea) =$15
3/4" bolts/nuts (2) = $6
ebay coil springs =$10
misc bolts = $10
hockey pucks (ebay) =$10
Total = $116

 

[torkliftrob]

I designed the 3-link to take my wheelbase to about 100". I can easily change this with the long joints. One thing I didn't mention, I made the lowers adjustable on only one end. That way, it's impossible for them to back off on the trail. The jam nuts are just for extra strength. It also makes adjustments easier; just pull the pins and turn the joints the same amount of times. Repeat on the wishbone:

 

[82toyomud]

Hmm :scratchhead:

 

[torkliftrob]

While I had it outside, I figured this was a good time to see how the tub wasn't going to fit. I didn't want to alter the jeep lines anymore than needed.

That's all for now, I gotta go play w/ it now that I'm all motivated. Stay tuned, the best is yet to come.

 

[CHOP SHOP]

love the buid style. looks to be built with cost and fun in mind.:awesomework:

build for the trail, not the internet!!:redneck:

 

[torkliftrob]

After I saw how much of the tub I was going to have to cut, I started thinking about what it will look like. I thought it would look goofy w/ a mile of space in front of the wheel (in the fender well). So, I decided too saw the tub in half and add a few inches.

I chose to cut it in the door jam 'cause it would mean less body work and add much needed leg room:awesomework:

 

[torkliftrob]

Extending the tub was pretty easy. The most difficult part was bending the sheet metal for the door-jam. It came out okay, most of it will be covered w/ alum. diamond plate.
I found matching roll bar tube, cut equal pieces and ta-da, it was a 1-day job. Pretty scary at 1st, though.

 

[torkliftrob]

I painted one of my lowers "Fab Tech blue" just to get at the guys who were flaming me on another forum.

Now, I needed to cut the tub, again to clear the tires at full squat. At least, now, the wheel is in the middle of the well.

 

[Gaylord]

I'll stick with my leafs. But, I'll wheel with ya and if your beating me everywere I'll re consider. :awesomework: