• Help Support Hardline Crawlers :

Chevota Build

84Toyota4x4 said:
I saw the Ford on Craigslist a while back already, lol.

~T.J.

It's kind of one of those "don't really want to keep it but at the same time don't really want to get rid of it" type of things. It's a cool truck but it's just too damn big to fit anywhere and paying $270 a month for insurance even with a clean record is definitely waisting my money. Especially if I can't really even wheel the dang thing around here.
 
Got the steering box mounted and ordered spacers, arms, and studs for the crossover setup. Got some bilstein 5150s and started mounting those. I dropped the fuel cell down so the top is flush with the bed floor so I have room to mount the radiator above it. She's finally getting closer. I have to cut the cage out so I can bolt the body down so I've decided to just redo the whole thing and make it fancy like crashy poos work:cool: My last big things are brakes and driveshafts:clappy:

a38.jpg
 
Last edited:
Any updates on your orange thing?

Also, looking at this picture, it looks like you have a load in your bed:

a38.jpg
 
Boxxerace said:
Any updates on your orange thing?

Also, looking at this picture, it looks like you have a load in your bed:

a38.jpg


No not really. Been spending a lot of money on parts but haven't actually been workin on it :rolleyes: . Doesn't have a engine in it...again. Sold the 700r4/208 and bought an sm465/205 for it:cool: . Front shock hoops are done and I put some 3.5inch "competition" bump stops on it. I need to clean out my stall so I can push the thing back inside and get crackin on her again:booo:

Also bought some mega bling. Check it yo:cool: :clappy:
a39.jpg


Aluminum Edelbrock Performer RPM heads(2.02/1.60, 64cc, 170cc runners), Crane Gold series roller rockers, hardened pushrods, and some shiney Edelbrock valve covers. All for $800 with a couple hours of break in time on them.:kissmyass:

My original plan was just to slap them on the 350 I all ready have but I'm going to go ahead and build a motor. Plans are:

.030 over 350(355)
10.5:1 forged pistons
Forged I-beam rods
Forged crank(I want to run 7000RPM safely)
Performer RPM cam
RPM Air Gap intake
+ everything listed above and I all ready have a 50000 volt HEI and a 750 Edelbrock
Should put out around 450hp:clappy: :clappy:
 
On your steering box connection, what was involved with going between the Toy steering shaft and the chev box. Got any recommendations?
 
Boxxerace said:
On your steering box connection, what was involved with going between the Toy steering shaft and the chev box. Got any recommendations?

It's pretty simple. The part of the steering shaft that connects to the u-joint at the fire wall is the stock Toyota piece then the other half that slips over it is a chevy piece. It's got a u-joint from borgeson universal that mounts on the steering box and is welded to the steering shaft and that's all there is to it :;
 
Last edited:
Been slowly puttin her together. Got the rear shock hoop bent and mounted, and the rear shocks are on. Decided I want to move the motor back for better weight distribution, so I torched the mounts I made, cut a big ol' hole in the firewall, and moved it back a ways. Cylinders 1 and 2 are going to be the only ones in front of the axle centerline. I also lowered the engine down a few inches to help the COG some. Course now I need to move the heater box and redo the driver side header:mad: . Probly end up selling the whole dash and build one that ties in with the cage when I redo that. :corn: Will post some pics up this weekend.
 
bobbed_84_toy said:
Been slowly puttin her together. Got the rear shock hoop bent and mounted, and the rear shocks are on. Decided I want to move the motor back for better weight distribution, so I torched the mounts I made, cut a big ol' hole in the firewall, and moved it back a ways. Cylinders 1 and 2 are going to be the only ones in front of the axle centerline. I also lowered the engine down a few inches to help the COG some. Course now I need to move the heater box and redo the driver side header:mad: . Probly end up selling the whole dash and build one that ties in with the cage when I redo that. :corn: Will post some pics up this weekend.

Wow, cant make up yer mind eh?
 
War-Jeeper said:
Wow, cant make up yer mind eh?

Well the sm465 and 205 are a whole bunch shorter then 700r4/208. If I left the motor where I originally put it the front driveshaft would've been veeeery short. But no, no I can't make up my mind:flipoff:


:haha:
 
Last edited:
This is how to clusterfawk equal length headers into an SBC powered 'yota:cool:

If ya look close enough you can spot the new motor mounts with the poly bushings. Trans/tcase is mounted with them too. It'll vibrate a lil more but no worries about tearing motor/tranny mounts on the trail:corn:



a40.jpg

a41.jpg

a42.jpg
 
Last edited:
You should do hydro steering so you dont have to worry about that silly shaft being in the way....
 
Did you get the 465-205 mounted in the truck you got from me? How is the tranny shifter location looking? Odie.
 
megatoy66 said:
Did you get the 465-205 mounted in the truck you got from me? How is the tranny shifter location looking? Odie.



Yup sure did. That's the reason I had to run the headers to the outside of the frame. Still have to make a skidplate and tie it into the mount on the transfer case so the adapter doesn't brake. The shifter comes out under the radio lol. Gonna have to cut a little bit of the dash but no big deal. It's better then I expected it to be
 
Last edited:
War-Jeeper said:
You should do hydro steering so you dont have to worry about that silly shaft being in the way....


Should've but oh well. I've heard hydro steering sucks on the street anyways. Plus if you blow a line then you have no way of steering:eeek:
 
bobbed_84_toy said:
Should've but oh well. I've heard hydro steering sucks on the street anyways. Plus if you blow a line then you have no way of steering:eeek:


I see yer point
 

Latest posts

Back
Top