Sandtrap1986
Well-Known Member
Awesome .....probably has something to do with the lack of fluid and hubs lol. Will be back at the end of the month with $ ready to take it whenever
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Help Support Hardline Crawlers :
Chris's toy (Sandtrap1986)
- Thread starter crash2
- Start date
Awesome .....probably has something to do with the lack of fluid and hubs lol. Will be back at the end of the month with $ ready to take it whenever
Sandtrap1986
Well-Known Member
After i drove it a bit when I got it from the muffler guy i wasn't impressed with the braking power? Any thoughts? Should I send a proportioning valve your way?
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
I would get the rust off the front rotors first since there is probably 50% brake loss on the front due to it and go from there..
If the rears lock up easily then I would go with a perportioning valve.
Another option is a bigger master but will need some research on that one...
If the rears lock up easily then I would go with a perportioning valve.
Another option is a bigger master but will need some research on that one...
Sandtrap1986
Well-Known Member
Yeah I knew the front needs some work ......I just didnt know if you had noticed the same thing
WHITE TRASH1
fruit stripe
94 should already have a 1" aluminum master cylinder and a larger dual diaphragm booster. Are the front calipers original to the truck? They should be 4 large piston ribbed calipers which are the largest factory part.
My old truck ran all stock 94 brakes on a toy solid axle with stock rear drums and they would lock up all 4 with 38" sx's at 4 psi on dry pavement. If you can't damned near do a nose wheelie there is something wrong.
My old truck ran all stock 94 brakes on a toy solid axle with stock rear drums and they would lock up all 4 with 38" sx's at 4 psi on dry pavement. If you can't damned near do a nose wheelie there is something wrong.
New calipers, upgrade the pads to better pads. I forgot to see if the front end had vented rotors
Sandtrap1986
Well-Known Member
I upgraded to the vented rotors and all new calipers back when i had it ....problem was the then brand new rotors lost all of the packaging oils and started to rust....so after that is all knocked off ....I'm hoping they work better
2pwrlftrs4u
NWW Meanie
mike, great work and attention to details with your wiring. your electrical work is always top notch :awesomework:
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Thanks Kyle...
After buzzing it around a few times the brake pressure feels pretty good--just needs some lovin on the front rotors..
So Chris is out to sea and I had one issue to resolve---pesky P0340 was resetting again.
When it set I went thru and verified all of my wiring from the sensor to the VCM--all was good so I tossed a CMP sensor in it.
Well crap that didn't fix it so I went even deeper.
Again I verified the wiring and it checked out good--to the correct pins and voltage. I did find the voltage (12v) was dropping about 3 volts below system voltage only on crank. Well I decided to remove that from the equation and ran a different feed to the sensor--code still sets.
Last thing to check was the duty cycle from the sensor (spec is 50%).
Well it sits at 45-51% so I say thats good. Well that tells me the VCM is bad--crap...
So when Chris gets back he will have to contact howell and see if they have a replacement of he will have to grab another one and have them burn a new program in it--since its plug and play that should be simple.
Sandtrap1986
Well-Known Member
search in progress to get another one on the way....you think that one is a salvageable core?
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Oh ya--I have had worse for a core,lol...
Sandtrap1986
Well-Known Member
cool i will probably just order straight from howell then......anything i should tell them in particular beside delete all smog crap?
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Just all the smog crap (evap/egr/post o2 sensors)...
Sandtrap1986
Well-Known Member
ordered and en route
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Are you having it sent to me Chris?
Sandtrap1986
Well-Known Member
yes sir....is that cool?
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Oh ya--just wanted to make sure :awesomework:
TeeterBuilt
Active Member
I love/hate bilstiens. Damn things can be a "pain" if you can't keep them compressed to a certain length.
But I got all 4 on so thats scratched off the list
Is there an articulation advantage to have the shocks run like this? or is it just so you can have longer shocks without running them up through the bed floor lookin all ghetto?
CHOP SHOP
Well-Known Member
Is there an articulation advantage to have the shocks run like this? or is it just so you can have longer shocks without running them up through the bed floor lookin all ghetto?
It actually lowers the performance of the shock.
When angled like that, the shock only sees about half the stroke that the axle does. At a 45 degree angle the shock only is 50% effective. When mounted straight up and down, the shock has full dampening ability, 100% effective.
Angled like that also does NOTHING to combat body roll. The body can be tipped way far from one side to the other but the shock will only cycle in and out an inch or so.
But if performance is not the goal, it helps fit a huge shock in a small spot. Also lets a guy use a short shock since the travel is cut in half.
This rig could never (imo) bottom out or top out those shocks with them angled over like that.
WA-Wheeler
Well-Known Member
I love/hate bilstiens. Damn things can be a "pain" if you can't keep them compressed to a certain length.
But I got all 4 on so thats scratched off the list
Is there an articulation advantage to have the shocks run like this? or is it just so you can have longer shocks without running them up through the bed floor lookin all ghetto?
Yep, just the only way they could fit and provide travel. If you didn't need a bed or ground clearance then running then upright would be the way to go.
