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coilovers vs. ORI struts

rockwhore

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 30, 2010
Messages
138
Location
centerville, georgetown, ky
Subject: Coilovers vs ORI struts


Generally speaking I am a newbie. I have a solid self built Toyota buggy that I have been wheeling for close to ten years. It does well but
It is nothing like the kick butt buggies on here that I dream of owning.
That said, we are trying to build a "fat girl" / jimmy smith inspired rig for a buddy.
Specs=427 BBC, th400, 203/205, ouversoned fr &rr steer, 54" boggers. This is a first for us, everything else has been jeep or Toyota based.
We had decided on coilovers but recently heard about ORI struts. What is anyone's experience with the ORI units? is there a noticable difference between the hill sensing and standard struts? Coilovers are tried and true, although new to us, so we feel they are a save bet. What would you do if given the choice, coilovers or ORI, and reasons why? also, what should I expect to pay for an 18" set of struts? Thanks in advance for any response. the parks you guys are riding is where we plan on riding and Harlan, Ky. Thanks, Tom. :woody: I put the bird on there because my friends call me a pecker too.
 
I'm by no means an authority, but I'd put coilovers on it and never look back. Also I personally wouldn't spend the extra for 18's 16's are PLENTY, lots of people (including myself) use 14's in front and 16's in back. Packaging is easier and HOW MUCH travel are you really gonna use if you're setup right...

My .02
Good luck and post up a build thread!!
 
Coilovers for sure and like he said 14s in front and 16s in the rear, and why the doubler?
 
14's and 16's, i appreciate the insight. doublers? just for extra gearing, like i said we were used to toyota builds, and the doubler in them is awesome. so we figured what the heck. plus maybe it will slow him down enough to let us keep up.lol
 
ORI's and never look back. Coilovers take alot of time and dollars to tune, swapping springs for different rates, changing the shim stack, etc... ORI's are a nitrogen tune only so its quick, easy and repeatable. Hill sensing, and side hilling are huge with the ORI's, and because of this you will not need a sway bar.

I think everything about ORI's is a Plus except one. That one is in highspeed duration hits (endurance racing), if you hit enough successive hits you will pack the piston up in the shockbody faster than the oil can return to the lower chamber. It takes some work to accomplish this, but it can be done.

ORI's number #1 dealer in the country is on this board "Blacksheep10" Kelly Kaiser, I'm sure when he checks in today he will see this.
 
indashop -thank you. we are starting to lean to the ORI. I run nitrogen fox shocks and love em. we were hoping that the ORI would be as easy to use and tune.
plus we are not going to be doing high speed runs very much, prob just on my farm across a pasture.
I hope Blacksheep 10 chimes in. mostly the buggy will be for trial riding and maybe some local competitions. we will be on a learning curve with this buggy, I am not used to the big tires, engine. so we will see what happens in the future.
 
Kelly will be on here after bit, its County Fair week in Paola and he had the kids down there this morning signing up. He said he'll jump on when he gets back to the shop.
 
Its true he is a :woody:, lol. Are the DP3 that much better than the ST version? What is the money difference?

Thanks
Steve
 
Reck said:
Its true he is a :woody:, lol. Are the DP3 that much better than the ST version? What is the money difference?

Thanks
Steve

I dont think he's made the DP3's for sometime, the ST are the bread and butter. I bet is 200:1 ST's to DP3's if not more.
 
The DP3's are supposed to be special, but I've never sold a set in 4 years. They are hand assembled by the owner and creator, and he's too busy catching up with the ST demand. They aren't available, but if they were, they are about $300 more each than an ST.

Pretty much, you're going to save putting a sway bar on, and save putting air bumps on. To realize the benefits they offer, you have to stuff that front pumpkin in front of the engine so you have at least 6" of uptravel and are still low. This is also easier on parts as you aren't constantly bottoming out your suspension and shock loading everything, including you laughing1
I've not sold a set to anyone with that big of an unsprung number, if you chassis is super light the axles/tires/wheels will throw it around no matter what suspension package you put on it. I'd imagine with a big block and doubler you won't have a problem being heavy enough up top. If you want to talk, just give me a call and I'll tell you all the pros and cons honestly of each setup.
 
My dads for his go fast buggy
2010-10-09131348.jpg
 
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