coilovers vs. ORI struts

blacksheep10 · Jul 28, 2011

did you mock it all up around an engine/tranny/tcase/front axle? I'm a firm believer in this instead of just "start bending". It will be a simple math problem, how far is the bottom of that front rail above the bottom of the skid plate rail? That is the most the front can stuff.
Then take half the axle tube (2") and half the tire, (26ish with squish) and find the difference. That is 28", and lets say the front rail is 10" above the bottom, meaning max possible stuff makes an 18" belly at full bump.
On 44's, a 12" belly at full bump is pretty good, and you have 5" more tire, so 17" is the min I would shoot for at full stuff. It looks like the nose is long enough to support the engine being back enough and the front axle forward enough to stuff that rock in front of the engine and have driveshaft angle by the block to take it. Probably need a 2 piece unless you shift your engine a bit. Be careful doing this, as you don't want to eat up brake and orbital mounting room, as well as tango'ing the with exhaust. Plan all of those things at once, instead of making exhaust an afterthought, or brake masters an afterthought. It gets tight quick unless you have a 56" plus chassis at the cowl.

rockwhore · Jul 28, 2011

i will pass this info along. we actually drew this up on solid works (although our first for that too) missing some details that we didnt think about. then we bought bend tech program and transferred points to it. again, most of our mistakes have come from not building a complete rig before from nothing. so with no reference points we guessed on alot of measurements. def a two piece driveshaft. exhaust down the side (possibly in the boatside area)
pinion brake and steering on front of axle assembly. prob going to cut nose off buggy after rad. and winch are in place. minimize as much as possible.

Draco · Jul 28, 2011

Run the rad in the back. Slip a winch in there tight and save a lot of length.

rockwhore · Jul 28, 2011

when you run a radiator in the rear, is a stock water pump strong enough to push the length of the buggy, through the radiator and back without overheating. again, this is something we havent done. tried it in a toyota and dealt with constant overheating, pure pain in the ass. so back to the front it went.

:****:

twiztedzuki · Jul 28, 2011

yes it will cool fine.

jegs sells a bleeder that u drill in tap in water neck of thermo housing, makes it simple to bleed air out system. i also make sure radiator fill is few inches above engine to help also

rockwhore · Jul 28, 2011

thank you very much. we have the new radiator, the rear might just work out

Draco · Jul 28, 2011

If you can't get it up high enough, or it looks funny run an aux. tank. :dblthumb:

Heres mine....

blacksheep10 · Jul 28, 2011

Aux tank or extended fill. I've dealt with some that that you had to back up on a bank to bleed, get teh rad higher. Make sure the high point on the engine or tubes leaving the engine have a spot to pull air from. I put a needle vavle on my blacksheep years ago and would start pouring water in the rad, open the needle on the pressure hose leaving the engine which was higher than the intake water jacket by about 1", as soon as pure water came out it was bled every time.
In the JabNasty buggy we can't get it above 180 in the desert unless we turn the fan off with a rear rad. You can also reverse the fan in the winter and warm your back up considerably

twiztedzuki · Jul 28, 2011

yeah i had a yota took seem like hr or 2 to bleed! put bleeder on thermo housing, i hav buddy hold it down till coolant comes out. she stays 180 also!

grcthird · Jul 28, 2011

You guys ever used a vacuum tool to get all the air out of a cooling system? :dblthumb:

http://www.ntxtools.com/network-tool-warehouse/ROB-75260.html

Sparkyinky · Jul 28, 2011

I did buy a Edelbrock water pump so it should have lots of flow... Thanks for all the input guys! This has been a learning experience for sure! I can't wait to beat on this buggy!!! :driving: