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Converting 14 bolt hubs to studs and nuts

I just did this on a U4 car I built with almn hubs. Studs and norlock washers with nyloc nuts they never come loose. I think the key when using a bolt however is have a long enough shoulder on the bolt that it goes into the hub alittle so the shear load isn't on the threads but the smooth shoulder . Typically that shoulder is .005 bigger then the thread and stronger . Not all hubs will accept a bolt like that though . Making these studs the way to go
 
Got me some studs, the last ride the bolts kept loose, and it slung oil everywhere.
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Seems like some acorn nuts on the end of these might prevent the threads from getting ****ed up on rocks.
 
I tried studs but still had problems. Switched back to grade 8 bolts with safety wire and didn't have any issues for 2 years. I sold the jeep, so I don't know if it still holding or not.
 

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I tried studs but still had problems. Switched back to grade 8 bolts with safety wire and didn't have any issues for 2 years. I sold the jeep, so I don't know if it still holding or not.

Nice work :dblthumb: Are you an A & P Mechanic? Looks like the way prop bolts are done.
 
I tried studs but still had problems. Switched back to grade 8 bolts with safety wire and didn't have any issues for 2 years. I sold the jeep, so I don't know if it still holding or not.
Where did you get your bolts?
 
My question is how much of this is caused by, a bent or warped housing do to welding. I never had an issue till I boarded spring perches, on any 14 bolt. Mine was on driver side tube.
 
What type o

What type of riding are you doing.
Not enough, I guess I might have been leaning more to a question.
But mostly just trail riding / booze cruisen
With mine I just bought spring perches and welded them where they needed to be, but I never had loosening issue before that.
 

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