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Crash.... need some chevy Lt1 input

Brian H

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The other day i bought a 93 camaro z28 with the Lt1 and 6 speed manual. Yesterday one of the lights came on saying abs inop. Not long after that my speedo and tach started to fluctuate about 10mph and 1000rpms. Is this part of the same problem or something else? It still does it as of today.
 
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Are you for sure of this?

pretty damn sure. Hard to say without hooking a scanner to it. worse case your ABS module too a ****. But that shouldn't affect your odometer. But a bad speed sensor will do both, trigger an ABS light and **** up the speedometer. I would see if has one in the rear diff. Probably does, I would try that first if you cant find an ABS scanner.

EDIT: Yours is on the tail shaft of the tranny. I just looked online.
 
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pretty damn sure. Hard to say without hooking a scanner to it. worse case your ABS module too a ****. But that shouldn't affect your odometer. But a bad speed sensor will do both, trigger an ABS light and **** up the speedometer. I would see if has one in the rear diff. Probably does, I would try that first if you cant find an ABS scanner.

EDIT: Yours is on the tail shaft of the tranny. I just looked online.

I wonder what the problem is then?
 
I wonder what the problem is then?

Run it over to Shucks or autozone tomorrow and have the code pulled. It might pull and ABS code I dont know. More than likely you need a scanner that can read ABS.
 
im good friends with the guy you traded i will try to get some inside info on this to see if its happend before
 
i rarely drove the car, but i dont recall the fluctuation of the gauges, but the abs light came on and off on occasion, i was told it was just a sensor
 
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could be cluster--could be wheel speed sensor--could be vss--could be ground---could be ignition switch......
 
could be cluster--could be wheel speed sensor--could be vss--could be ground---could be ignition switch......

Would a snap on scan tool read the problem?This car is an obd-1 car correct?
 
For GM domestic vehicles made before 1995, the diagnostic connector is located under the dash panel by the driver side. To get the check engine codes to flash in your dash panel, use a jumper wire or a paper clip and connect terminals A and B of the diagnostic connector. Turn your ignition key on with engine off and the codes should start to blink. All codes should start with code 12 which is one long flash followed by 2 short flashes. This code 12 means the diagnostic system is normal and will repeat itself continuously if there are no trouble codes. Otherwise, code 12 will flash 3 times before flashing the fault codes.

You should be able to google the code...
 
For those of you having gm obd1 with code 42 and having a GM pre 1995 vehicle and getting the check engine light in your dash, please read carefully below. (For GM vehicles made before 1995 that has a distributor type ignition and has code 42-EST circuit failure and has the following symptoms:

Stalling at stop signs
No start but if you wait up to 2 hours, it will start again

TESTS for GM obd1 with code 42:

1.) Please confirm this gm code first by resetting the code and see if the code will show up again a second time. You reset obd1 codes by disconnecting the negative battery terminal for 1 minute and reconnect. If the code shows up again, it means this code is really a hard code that must be fixed. During no start, confirm the presence of ignition problem by checking the presence of spark using an especial tool ST125(cost under $5) and available in any local parts store.

2.)Make sure there is 12 volts supply going to your distributor harness wire when you turn the key on engine off (KOEO).

FIX for GM obd1 with code 42:

Remove the distributor assembly and replace the following:

Pick up coil
Ignition module

Once the above parts are replaced, reset the code and go for a quick road test to confirm. If your engine does not have a distributor, replace the crank sensor instead of the pick up coil. But check also for input voltage to the crank sensor harness wire. In some cases, the crank sensor magnet probe could be cracked and make sure to check them by removing the sensor for close visual inspection.

When checking the components for gm obd1 with code 42, you are better off using a wiring diagram or a vehicle service manual. This way you can avoid removing the wrong part. This is especially true when you try to identify the electrical components using the colors of the wires which are shown in the wiring diagram. If you need assistance, contact ATS.
 
DTC - 12 No distributor reference pulse (diagnostic test active)

DTC - 13 Oxygen sensor circuit open or no activity

DTC - 13 Left bank O2 sensor circuit open or no activity

DTC - 14 Engine coolant temp sensor error (high temp indicated)

DTC - 15 Engine coolant temp sensor error (low temp indicated)

DTC - 16 System voltage too low

DTC - 17 Camshaft position sensor error

DTC - 21 Throttle Position sensor error (signal high)

DTC - 22 Throttle position sensor error (signal low)

DTC - 23 Intake air temp sensor error (low temp indicated)

DTC - 24 Vehicle speed sensor error (open circuit or no activity)

DTC - 25 Intake air temp sensor error (high temp indicated)

DTC - 28 Auto transmission range pressure switch error

DTC - 31 Wastegate solenoid circuit error

DTC - 32 EGR system failure

DTC - 33 MAP sensor circuit error (signal high indicating low vacuum)

DTC - 34 MAP sensor circuit error (signal low indicating high vacuum)

DTC - 35 IAC problem or idle error

DTC - 36 MAF sensor error

DTC - 36 24x Crankshaft position sensor circuit error

DTC - 37 TCC brake switch circuit error

DTC - 39 Clutch switch circuit error

DTC - 41 Ignition control error

DTC - 41 MEM-CAL error

DTC - 41 C
 
Damn Brian,, sounds like a bunch of OTHER **** popped up. :haha:

None of those are ABS faults.
 
So i replaced the wheel speed sensor and the Vehicle speed sensor. The gauges stopped fluctuating but the abs inop light is still on. I also found that the left bank o2 sensor was unplugged. Plugged that in and code 13 is gone.
 

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