Just went out in the culdesac did a little front wheel doughnut in the snow and bam, broke both front axle joints. So im thinking of upgrading to alloy shafts and joints but would like to here from people running them and if they held up. Im running 37x12.50 , auto trans and 5.7 vortec. thanks for the input.
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dana 44 axle shafts
- Thread starter oneshot
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KarlVP
Love that TOYOTA
I know Tom Tom broke a Chromo 44 shaft doing the same thing. On dirt in his driveway. He is on 36 IROKS. :wtf:
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
If you have a 44 even with chromo's---you gotta be nice to it or you are going to break it no matter what shafts are in it....
GRNTACO
This Space Blank
D44 = 
TreeClimber
Well-Known Member
Front wheel donuts require that the joint be turned to it's highest degree of angularity. And that's the weakest position for any U-joint/axle combo.
I've got 30 splined Warn alloys inner and outers with a CTM joints. My combo are around 5 years old now, and haven't broke them yet. I like Warn shafts, for many years I thought they were the standard to measure all other shafts, but now several manufactures build good ones.
If I'd do it over, I'd use Bobby Longs joints with Warn shafts. He's on the board, local, has better prices and superior products.
edit. my rig, AMC 401/ TH400 / Atlas4.3/ Dana 60 rear/ Dana 44 front with 30 splined inner Warn shafts - CTM - 30 spline Warn outer shafts. in a YJ body. Around 4500 pounds I'd guess.
Tony
I've got 30 splined Warn alloys inner and outers with a CTM joints. My combo are around 5 years old now, and haven't broke them yet. I like Warn shafts, for many years I thought they were the standard to measure all other shafts, but now several manufactures build good ones.
If I'd do it over, I'd use Bobby Longs joints with Warn shafts. He's on the board, local, has better prices and superior products.
edit. my rig, AMC 401/ TH400 / Atlas4.3/ Dana 60 rear/ Dana 44 front with 30 splined inner Warn shafts - CTM - 30 spline Warn outer shafts. in a YJ body. Around 4500 pounds I'd guess.
Tony
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Grommit327
Well-Known Member
x2..................GRNTACO said:D44 =
CrustyJeep
Well-Known Member
You must have your stops set pretty aggressive or something. I killed a joint/shaft doing a front dig on hard gravel, but I was standing on the brakes. There's no way in fawk it would have broken otherwise. This is 36" TSL's on *stock* 44 shafts.
Moral of the story is, if you're bound up or fighting the brakes, just about anything can be broken.
Moral of the story is, if you're bound up or fighting the brakes, just about anything can be broken.
fubar73cj5
Well-Known Member
TreeClimber said:
Quick hijack, do you still think it was worth the money (right now about $1k) to do the chromo 30sp inners/outers with joints and hubs or would you go 60? I'm in a similar situation and am thinking about the Warn 30sp inners/outers. Not going any larger than 37's, currently on 36" Iroks.
Carry on :beer:
PORTER
Well-Known Member
NO, save yourself the hassle and just get a 60. I polished my 44 to hell, still only to break it. I have never broke a 60 shaft yet. Now back to the regularly scheduled hijack.fubar73cj5 said:
TreeClimber
Well-Known Member
fubar73cj5 said:
Provided you never go larger than 37s. To build a front 60 right, you'll spend $3000. I know, because the second Jeep I'm building has 60s front and rear.
Gotta remember, factory dana 60s came with 30 splines front and rear. If you can put them in a 44 housing, why not? Then you can break Detroits/ARBs and ring gears.
Also, 30 splined outer D44 require special spindles (from Warn) or you gotta hog out your old ones to clearance the larger diameter stub shafts.
Grommit327
Well-Known Member
Or get yukon shafts/super joints and save a bunch of money...I think I only had about 5 bills into my setupfubar73cj5 said:
(thanx to crash :beer:
)
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stompinjab1
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 30, 2006
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D44s
uke: They are not worth putting money into. They are good for 35s or smaller if that
uke: They are not worth putting money into. They are good for 35s or smaller if that TreeClimber said:
Tony, What tires you runnin? If your on 31" AT's your in good shape. :redneck: If you on 38.5 TSX's? your pushin your luck.
I ran a stock axled 44 front for years with 37 MTR's only front dig once cos I couldn't with the spool in the back. Got the detroit in the rear and all of a sudden the T/case was easier to shift. BTW didn't break on the f/d either but I babied the crap out of it when I had it. Glad I upgraded.
TreeClimber
Well-Known Member
Symon623 said:Tony, What tires you runnin? If your on 31" AT's your in good shape. :redneck: If you on 38.5 TSX's? your pushin your luck.
I run 37 Krawlers.
And everyone thinks 60s are the must have. But I still haven't broke a WARN ALLOY or a CTM. And I'm the only guy I know who runs 30 spline stub shafts. Most folk run the 19 spline Ford/Chevy/Wagoneer stuff or the 27 spline CJ stubs. And the stubs are the weak link, that and the stock shafts which neck down near the splines. WARN shafts do not neck down, have re-enforced area around the u-joints, and are thru hardened, and alloy.
That said, I've got a build 60 front with 35 spline alloys going into my TJ right now (not my YJ).
T.
fubar73cj5
Well-Known Member
PORTER said:NO, save yourself the hassle and just get a 60. I polished my 44 to hell, still only to break it. I have never broke a 60 shaft yet. Now back to the regularly scheduled hijack.
The next rig will have 60's or better, this rig has gone about as far as I want to take it. First build and first rig, I learned alot.
I don't see the advantage of just going chromo unless I go 30 spline outers at the same time. However in the meantime in order to not cringe everytime I bind or have to use the massive power of the I6
I don't mind paying for a little peace of mind and less time in the garage in order to wheel this rig until I'm ready to build another. This turd is gonna shine like chrome...Treeclimber-thanks for the advice. I have done the research on the Warn 30spline outers, just never "talked" to anybody that has done it.
:beer:
No more hijacking, I promise :redneck:
TreeClimber said:
I knew you were runnin bigger tires, just not sure how big?? The D44 30 spline outers? What diameter? and obviously you run drive flanges or do locking hubs hold up? I know plenty of people that have a setup not a strong as yours and survived but they are always worried about them. I know the OEM's issue are the outers since thats all I ever broke on mine, 1 per side (Chevy's). Always sweatin about breakin something (Or was that the fact that I am in frickin AZ?)
Now I have the 60 in and I'm runnin Yukon OEM replacement 35 spline inners and outers with regular spicer joints and no more worries. Nothin fancy but I'm runnin 37 MTR's and an auto without extremely lo gearing. Hopefully it'll last?
fubar73cj5
Well-Known Member
D44 30sp are the same size as D60 30sp. The hubs are a Warn only deal, internal "Premium" hubs. I would guess that a chromo 30sp would be close to a OEM 35sp in strength, but as said before the ring gear/locker/ball joint/etc. will probably go first. I would feel confident running the 30sp outers with 36" Iroks and a medium right foot in this area.
Harvester of Sorrow
Well-Known Member
1. Run stock 44 parts and spicer joints.
2. Spot Weld the caps in.
3. Routinely maintenance the joints (1 or 2 times year depending on some things).
4. Carry a spare ASSEMBLY for both sides...inner-joint-outer.
Run above scenario until you can get a full upgrade under the rig. Just saves you in the long run...Saving you both $$ and even more important down time.
I have a moderately heavy rig 4500lb...running 36's...with more torque than I think anybody here running a 44 front. The only reason I broke an axle just getting into the rock garden was because of a spun cap. The reason the cap spun was because of not being maintained. Not having the cap welded insured premature failure...
Combine those issues with a brake pedal front burn...and Chitty Chitty Boom Boom...
I have wheeled my rig very well with stock shafts and joints...you just need to remember that is what is under it.
Keep saving for a 60.
2. Spot Weld the caps in.
3. Routinely maintenance the joints (1 or 2 times year depending on some things).
4. Carry a spare ASSEMBLY for both sides...inner-joint-outer.
Run above scenario until you can get a full upgrade under the rig. Just saves you in the long run...Saving you both $$ and even more important down time.
I have a moderately heavy rig 4500lb...running 36's...with more torque than I think anybody here running a 44 front. The only reason I broke an axle just getting into the rock garden was because of a spun cap. The reason the cap spun was because of not being maintained. Not having the cap welded insured premature failure...
Combine those issues with a brake pedal front burn...and Chitty Chitty Boom Boom...
I have wheeled my rig very well with stock shafts and joints...you just need to remember that is what is under it.
Keep saving for a 60.
