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Dana 44 cut/turn? how much?

Do it yourself. Just tack weld the C's on and deliver the housing to a gigantic welder for final button up. I have one such gigantic welder.
 
Do it yourself. Just tack weld the C's on and deliver the housing to a gigantic welder for final button up. I have one such gigantic welder.

now for the dumb question. How easy is it to get the C's loose? I don't want to have to retube it, If I have to, I have a donor FW axle with plenty of length to do such a thing... Would my Miller 175 not be enough with a couple passes???:eeek:
 
now for the dumb question. How easy is it to get the C's loose? I don't want to have to retube it, If I have to, I have a donor FW axle with plenty of length to do such a thing...
Not that easy. Grind the welds out thoughly and start beating the piss out of them with a BFH.

If you're also narrowing, it's easier, because you can just lop off the tube, then use a saw to split the tube that's still in the C and it will collapse and fall out.

Putting the C's on is a breeze. Just heat them up nice and hot in your oven or your BBQ and they should slip right on.

Would my Miller 175 not be enough with a couple passes???:eeek:
I wouldn't do it. It's too easy to hook up with somebody with a bigger welder. That's a lot of steel to get hot, and not a lot of power.
 
Not that easy. Grind the welds out thoughly and start beating the piss out of them with a BFH.

If you're also narrowing, it's easier, because you can just lop off the tube, then use a saw to split the tube that's still in the C and it will collapse and fall out.

Putting the C's on is a breeze. Just heat them up nice and hot in your oven or your BBQ and they should slip right on.

I wouldn't do it. It's too easy to hook up with somebody with a bigger welder. That's a lot of steel to get hot, and not a lot of power.

Hmm.... does seem like a chore... I will see if i absolutely need to do it, it would be nice but i could prolly get away without it. So, so long as i fully grind the weld around the outside, with some persuasion, the C's will come off the tube ok?

OH, epiphany! I am so used to the dana 30 with the BJs in the C's, I could just cut the tubes off the F.W. 44 i just picked up, and use those tubes and C's just the same huh? So how hard is it then to get the tubes out of the diff? is it jsut the two spot welds? Then how is it installing the new tubes, same deal, hook up with the crusty and get it welded???:eeek:
 
So how hard is it then to get the tubes out of the diff? is it jsut the two spot welds? Then how is it installing the new tubes
You're going backward, from kinda difficult to fuggetaboutit.

Here's the thing. Once you get the C's off, it's a breeze. If you fail to get the C's off, you still have the option to out source the job. You're not going to get half way done and be stuck. You might as well at least attempt the removal.
 
You're going backward, from kinda difficult to fuggetaboutit.

Here's the thing. Once you get the C's off, it's a breeze. If you fail to get the C's off, you still have the option to out source the job. You're not going to get half way done and be stuck. You might as well at least attempt the removal.

So, taking the tubes from the diff is harder? I thought it would be easier, to take them out and recut them to the length i need and reweld them in.
 
personally, I'd take mine to Dean @ Bent Metal, but here's a do it yourself quote

Alrighty i went ahead and did it last night, took about 2 hours so far, just have to get the C back on and weld it up. Cost about $80 in supplies: HF portable bandsaw $69 with 2 year warranty, 4 Jones sodas, a couple gringing wheels and a sawzall blade.

Any tips on putting the C on? just heat it up and push it on? I was hoping to not have to take the kingpin off since ive never done it, anything in the kingpin that cant be in the oven? I havent read up on kingpins yet are they easy to remove and i should just take it off to make things easier?

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:cool:
 
The thing is i don't need it shortened, at all. I just want to turn the C's and if i cut the C's off i would still ahve to retube it. So why not cut the tubes/C's(still connected) off the fullsize 44 right at the housing and cut them to length and insert them onto the axle i am going to be using? What has to happen to get the tubes out of the 3rd? Is it really harder to weld? I know it is cast....
 
The thing is i don't need it shortened, at all. I just want to turn the C's and if i cut the C's off i would still ahve to retube it. So why not cut the tubes/C's(still connected) off the fullsize 44 right at the housing and cut them to length and insert them onto the axle i am going to be using? What has to happen to get the tubes out of the 3rd? Is it really harder to weld? I know it is cast....
The tubes are pressed into the housing LIKE A MOTHA.

Here's what I did. I could not get the C to slip off, so I cut it off (destroying it). Then I grabbed another housing, cut the tube like in Tony's post, and put the new C on my housing. Pretty easy. Then again, I was replacing the C because it was messed up.
 
Is that what you did with that housing you got from me then? See i thought about doing that, but on this other housing the pinion bearing is FRIED, and i am a little worried that the bearing seats in the housing are going to be messed up, I mean, it would work for what you are talking about if i am understanding correctly. But i am just a bit worried that the housing around the pinion is no good.

Maybe i should have picked up that housing from you jeepasaurusrex:mad: if you read this and still have it, i might come pick it up from you...:corn:
 
Is that what you did with that housing you got from me then?
Nope, turned it into a rear. I just hacked off the ends, cut the long tube off, and butt welded it onto the short side. Worked great. It's the beefiest rear 44 out there :D

You seem to have an irrational fear of knocking those C's off...
 
I did it on my D44...twasn't too hard. just ground down the welds all the way around with a grinder till I could see a seam showing and beat off the ends with a BFH. My shoulders were literally sore for several days from it. I then sat the truck at ride height with the housing bolted up to it and the pinion pointed to where I wanted it. Slap the warm knuckles on it and use an angle finder and BFH to get the desired caster angle! Easy as pie :awesomework:
 
I did it on my D44...twasn't too hard. just ground down the welds all the way around with a grinder till I could see a seam showing and beat off the ends with a BFH. My shoulders were literally sore for several days from it. I then sat the truck at ride height with the housing bolted up to it and the pinion pointed to where I wanted it. Slap the warm knuckles on it and use an angle finder and BFH to get the desired caster angle! Easy as pie :awesomework:

Ok, i might give it a go, it was just wounding like i was gonna have to cut up the tubes...which i really didnt want to do...
 
Nope, turned it into a rear. I just hacked off the ends, cut the long tube off, and butt welded it onto the short side. Worked great. It's the beefiest rear 44 out there :D

You seem to have an irrational fear of knocking those C's off...


Cool.

And yes a part of me is scirrd to be pounding the living hell out of them.:haha:

I really don't even need to knock them off so much as rotate them a little...
 
Just weaken the welds on your spring perches, apply heavy pedal pressure, and jump the vehicle. Thus, rotating your pinion upward... :redneck:



:beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: You will need several of these, I reckon.
 
Just weaken the welds on your spring perches, apply heavy pedal pressure, and jump the vehicle. Thus, rotating your pinion upward... :redneck:



:beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: You will need several of these, I reckon.

Or a girl named Lori as my wife:haha: :haha: :haha: (Love ya Nick:kiss: )
 
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