Boonie Buster
Stuck on a Curb
how much is it gonna cost me if i do it, and who can do it?:corn:
Do it yourself. Just tack weld the C's on and deliver the housing to a gigantic welder for final button up. I have one such gigantic welder.
Not that easy. Grind the welds out thoughly and start beating the piss out of them with a BFH.now for the dumb question. How easy is it to get the C's loose? I don't want to have to retube it, If I have to, I have a donor FW axle with plenty of length to do such a thing...
I wouldn't do it. It's too easy to hook up with somebody with a bigger welder. That's a lot of steel to get hot, and not a lot of power.Would my Miller 175 not be enough with a couple passes???:eeek:
Not that easy. Grind the welds out thoughly and start beating the piss out of them with a BFH.
If you're also narrowing, it's easier, because you can just lop off the tube, then use a saw to split the tube that's still in the C and it will collapse and fall out.
Putting the C's on is a breeze. Just heat them up nice and hot in your oven or your BBQ and they should slip right on.
I wouldn't do it. It's too easy to hook up with somebody with a bigger welder. That's a lot of steel to get hot, and not a lot of power.
You're going backward, from kinda difficult to fuggetaboutit.So how hard is it then to get the tubes out of the diff? is it jsut the two spot welds? Then how is it installing the new tubes
You're going backward, from kinda difficult to fuggetaboutit.
Here's the thing. Once you get the C's off, it's a breeze. If you fail to get the C's off, you still have the option to out source the job. You're not going to get half way done and be stuck. You might as well at least attempt the removal.
Alrighty i went ahead and did it last night, took about 2 hours so far, just have to get the C back on and weld it up. Cost about $80 in supplies: HF portable bandsaw $69 with 2 year warranty, 4 Jones sodas, a couple gringing wheels and a sawzall blade.
Any tips on putting the C on? just heat it up and push it on? I was hoping to not have to take the kingpin off since ive never done it, anything in the kingpin that cant be in the oven? I havent read up on kingpins yet are they easy to remove and i should just take it off to make things easier?
The tubes are pressed into the housing LIKE A MOTHA.The thing is i don't need it shortened, at all. I just want to turn the C's and if i cut the C's off i would still ahve to retube it. So why not cut the tubes/C's(still connected) off the fullsize 44 right at the housing and cut them to length and insert them onto the axle i am going to be using? What has to happen to get the tubes out of the 3rd? Is it really harder to weld? I know it is cast....
Why do you want to turn the Cs?
Nope, turned it into a rear. I just hacked off the ends, cut the long tube off, and butt welded it onto the short side. Worked great. It's the beefiest rear 44 out thereIs that what you did with that housing you got from me then?
I did it on my D44...twasn't too hard. just ground down the welds all the way around with a grinder till I could see a seam showing and beat off the ends with a BFH. My shoulders were literally sore for several days from it. I then sat the truck at ride height with the housing bolted up to it and the pinion pointed to where I wanted it. Slap the warm knuckles on it and use an angle finder and BFH to get the desired caster angle! Easy as pie :awesomework:
Nope, turned it into a rear. I just hacked off the ends, cut the long tube off, and butt welded it onto the short side. Worked great. It's the beefiest rear 44 out there
You seem to have an irrational fear of knocking those C's off...
Just weaken the welds on your spring perches, apply heavy pedal pressure, and jump the vehicle. Thus, rotating your pinion upward... :redneck:
:beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: You will need several of these, I reckon.