Dana 44 Cv Joints

[JPTHING]

I had considered asking if I could buy some blank Toyota "Chromo 30 Spline Super Set" and just have them splined, cut and machined to fit my D44.

 

[Brian H]

I had considered asking if I could buy some blank Toyota "Chromo 30 Spline Super Set" and just have them splined, cut and machined to fit my D44.

You would also need to cup them to hold the grease in like the 60's have.

 

[JPTHING]

so some sort of boot like a car has. yeah I had considered that.

 

[TreeClimber]

Bobby,
A couple more considerations for you. A lot of us guys have gone to the flat top knuckles for steering. So we're running chevys and waggys deliberately. Since I don't know fords, will my steering fit, if I switch over to the ford style hoping to run CVs? Secondly, unless I'm mistaken, all the D30s from YJ and TJs (unitbearing) will run 5 on 4.5 lug patern. That means I'll have to machine out a new lug pattern on the wheel hub. Plus, my lockout hubs won't work. So this isn't a simple swap for a guy like me, unless I buy CV axles, wheel hubs, ford ends, etc, etc..
It sure would be nice if you could find a solution to these concerns.
Tony

 

[longfield]

Bobby,
A couple more considerations for you. A lot of us guys have gone to the flat top knuckles for steering. So we're running chevys and waggys deliberately. Since I don't know fords, will my steering fit, if I switch over to the ford style hoping to run CVs? Secondly, unless I'm mistaken, all the D30s from YJ and TJs (unitbearing) will run 5 on 4.5 lug patern. That means I'll have to machine out a new lug pattern on the wheel hub. Plus, my lockout hubs won't work. So this isn't a simple swap for a guy like me, unless I buy CV axles, wheel hubs, ford ends, etc, etc..
It sure would be nice if you could find a solution to these concerns.
Tony

Yes i know thats why iam asking all you guys to help us to figer this out. This is why its takeing so long. It seams like we have things worked out then something we find doesn't work.

 

[longfield]

I had considered asking if I could buy some blank Toyota "Chromo 30 Spline Super Set" and just have them splined, cut and machined to fit my D44.

Yes we looked at that also. The birf bell would be so thin it would not hold up.

 

[Hip]

ok what about machining out the bore on the chevy knuckle, to make the birf fit?

is that possible? what are the difference in size?

3 5/8ths big bore

3 3/8ths small bore

that would be an 1/8 of metal removed to increase to 3 5/8 and im thinking that could easily be done. i actually opened mine up slightly to get the axels in with some weld beads on the caps....

again if ya want someone to real world test them id be glad to help out...

i have HD 44, narrowed slightly, chevy flat top spindles, warns and your joints already running 39.5 irocks with a 5.0.:awesomework:

 

[Kauaibuilt47]

heres a question....

Why not pair up w/ crane or something and offer aftermarket flat top outer knuckles w/ custom spindles machined to take either ford/gm/jeep hubs/rotors that will allow the cv's to work?

Cheaper (?) option would be to have customers knuckles machined out and have the custom spindles as part of the kit.

Now you can run cv's (and keep your stock shafts as spares) and get hi-steer in the process.

Possibly add on a hop-up of 30sp outers and custom hubs/flanges.

because of the added cost of the knuckles/spindles im not sure how many would buy into it but hey, who knows. I know that im in the market for new shafts and would consider this type of swap if there was enough increase in strength for the $$$$.

Biggest problem I can see are those that say "why polish a turd" because of the difference of the 44 to the 60.....

 

[Kauaibuilt47]

Ive never seen the inside of a toy axle but what about running the toy outers for the 6x5.5 bolt pattern. Not sure if the rotors would work w/ gm/jeep calipers or what.....

Instead of the Allpro Toy/60 hybrid it would be a 44/Toy hybrid.

 

[Outback]

heres a question....

Why not pair up w/ crane or something and offer aftermarket flat top outer knuckles w/ custom spindles machined to take either ford/gm/jeep hubs/rotors that will allow the cv's to work?

Cheaper (?) option would be to have their knuckles machined out and have the custom spindles as part of the kit.

No you can run cv's (and keep your stock shafts as spares) and get hi-steer in the process.

Possibly add on a hop-up of 30sp outers and custom hubs/flanges.

because of the added cost of the knuckles/spindles im not sure how many would buy into it but hey, who knows. I know that im in the market for new shafts and would consider this type of swap if there was enough increase in strength for the $$$$.

If you are going to all that work then just pull the 'C' and go to D60 outers complete and run a 35-spln Yukon (or =) with good joints and be done with it.
60 shaft strength and 44 clearance... Sure the R&P is still 44 and suspect but at that point it depends on what you like to wheel. I hate rocks, so; the D44 under my 3/4T being fed by a 429 through a manual trans works just fine

 

[TreeClimber]

ok what about machining out the bore on the chevy knuckle, to make the birf fit?

is that possible? what are the difference in size?

3 5/8ths big bore

3 3/8ths small bore

that would be an 1/8 of metal removed to increase to 3 5/8 and im thinking that could easily be done. i actually opened mine up slightly to get the axels in with some weld beads on the caps....

again if ya want someone to real world test them id be glad to help out...

i have HD 44, narrowed slightly, chevy flat top spindles, warns and your joints already running 39.5 irocks with a 5.0.:awesomework:

I looked at my extra spindle, and to bore out the center hole the extra diameter would actually take out the metal holding in the studs for the spindle. There's just not enough material (in my opinion).
Tony

 

[TreeClimber]

Possibly add on a hop-up of 30sp outers and custom hubs/flanges.

This can already be done with Warn parts, as I'm running it already.

Biggest problem I can see are those that say "why polish a turd" because of the difference of the 44 to the 60.....

Remember almost ALL FACTORY D60 ARE 30 SPLINED INNER AND OUTER.
It's not until the aftermarket stuff came out, did D60s go to 35 spline, and now 40 splined shafts. And in my opinion (which doesn't really matter) the 30 splined outers shafts should be fine for a 37 or 38 inch tire unless it's a full on rock buggy that'll get the front's bound up.

 

[PORTER]

Remember almost ALL FACTORY D60 ARE 35 SPLINE INNER AND 30 SPLINE OUTER.

Fixed it for you Tony.

 

[TreeClimber]

Yeah yeah yeah... aren't you supposed to be down in the Hammers or somewhere....

My 05 F250 came factory with 35 inners and 35 outers, but I was always under the impression that the mid 70s D60s (which everybody seems to buy to convert over to their rig) came with the 30 splined inners, and it wasn't until the late much later that the 35 splined inners arrived. Anyhow, I do understand that most later models are 35/30 but that current models are pretty much 35/35... I guess it's time to re-read the Pirate resource article about 60s.

Anyhow, Porter's right, as always.

 

[fubar73cj5]

Warn 30sp spindles are 1.35" inside, you can buy theirs for $177 each :eeek: or bore your own according to Warn.

and for a late edit, I've got the Warn spindles that are CJ length (shorty), but fit a 30 splined shaft thru it. Not many kids on the block have a D44 with 30 splined inner and outer shafts. (I figured that's what most 60s have, so why not my 44) If Warn can make/buy their own spindle, why can't someone else....

Bobby-Would you make them in Scout/Jeep and chev/ford length outers? Edit-estimated price range?

TreeClimber-have you ever had any troubles with the 30sp outers? (Edit again-never mind, just re-read your other post) I've been debating this for a while and it seems like a decent upgrade as I really don't want to change front axles at this point. Though I don't know if my axles deserves to have longs in it If you want to sell your outers let me know. I have the 8.72" outers.

Porter- I know, I know, go 60 :; For sure on the next rig, this one doesn't deserve it.

 

[TreeClimber]

TreeClimber-have you ever had any troubles with the 30sp outers? (Edit again-never mind, just re-read your other post) I've been debating this for a while and it seems like a decent upgrade as I really don't want to change front axles at this point. Though I don't know if my axles deserves to have longs in it If you want to sell your outers let me know. I have the 8.72" outers.

I've really been happy with them. My first set of spindles were an extra set of Warn rear FF spindles, and they didn't have the little bearing on the inside of the spindle that supports the outer shaft, and that worked fine for about a year. By then the CTMs had loosened up just a tad (before they were TIGHT!) and the outers axles started chattering inside the spindle at highway speeds. Once that got figured out, I switched to front spindles with the bearing, and have had no trouble at all with the axles. The drive hubs I still use are either the Warn Drive Flanges (from a rear FF kit) or the Warn Rear Lockout Hubs. They differ from the front hubs two ways. First they have the set screw to lock them in. Secondly they differ in how easy they lock in. Locking the rear hubs on the front end sometimes require me to reach into the wheelwell, and turn the front driveshaft back and forth, to align the splines inside the hub axleside with hubside. Not a big deal.

 

[PORTER]

Anyhow, Porter's right, as always.

I am glad you now have that figuired out:haha::haha: .

 

[no excuses]

hmmmm any chance you good get a 35 spline set to fit in the bigger ford setups??? And yes Iknow nothing about D44's:flipoff:

 

[TreeClimber]

hmmmm any chance you good get a 35 spline set to fit in the bigger ford setups??? And yes Iknow nothing about D44's:flipoff:

The D44 lockers would have to have the gears recut to fit the bigger shafts. I talked with a buddy who works for Detroit Lockers, and the concern is that the smaller material left in the side gears would leave them suspect to breakage. A 35 spline shaft is a WHOLE BUNCH bigger'n the 30 splined stuff. Now you could weld your carrier and then the locker wouldn't matter as much, but it's a front end, and steering would become somewhat more difficult.

If I'm understanding what Bobby's typing, the 30 splined CV shaft will also just barely fit into the FORD style axle steering knuckle hole, so trying to put the 35 splined CV has got to be impossible too

And for what it's worth, I'd love to have a 35 splined, CV'd front axle setup, but at some point it really does become turd polishing, and we should all step up to a D60.

That's why, on the TJ that I'm building I started with a D60 front housing first. But on my YJ, well... I'm doin' the best I can.