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Dana 44 u joints

xjmarc said:
Guess I overlooked where it said pair but you guys overlooked where I said I was on a budget twice. Or maybe we have different ideas of what a budget is. Hell I paid less for the axle with chromos in it than these joints. Looking at the pics of the shafts I'm wondering if I'd be better off with other joints. I'd rather break a joint than a shaft.

Breaking joints will quickly ruin shafts. I saw a couple sets of the old WARN chromo shafts get egged out and ****ed up by breaking stock joints, back in the day before badass u joints were commonly available.

I guess we are off "budget" wise... $300 is about 1-1.5 good wheelin trips for me if I count diesel, park fees, camping fees, trail food, restaurant food and beer.

I'd rather be wheelin and not broken, than wheelin with that worry. hell I ran full 30 spline chromo Longfields in my toyota axle on 33s so I'd never have to worry about it. That peace-of-mind wasnt' cheap
 
I understand what you're saying but if I spend 300 on them it means having to save for a while cause its not a priority at the moment and I want to ride in the near future. And I wish that 300 was all I spend on a good out of town ride.
 
I couldn't afford them either. So I bought them one at a time.


If you can't afford super joints, buy spice 760x. Strongest stock ujoint but they will break.
 
If you can't afford super joints, run stock shafts with 760x spicers and spend some time with a file so that you can run full circle snap rings. They are pretty strong even with 36's if your foot isn't too heavy and you don't bounce alot or wedge. A good many failures of 297x and 760x joints are because of the half circle snap rings spitting out and the cap walking out. A full circle snap ring greatly improves the survivability of your joints.
I've broken two stub shafts at the hub end...but not a super joint.
Like someone said before, you can trash a perfectly good moly shaft because you break a stock joint and the ears hit....at which time you didn't save yourself any money.
Hope this helps.
or you could buy my complete dana 44 with chrome moly shafts, super joints, 4:56 gears and a detroit for the low price of $1,000.
 
Rockrash said:
If you can't afford super joints, run stock shafts with 760x spicers and spend some time with a file so that you can run full circle snap rings. They are pretty strong even with 36's if your foot isn't too heavy and you don't bounce alot or wedge. A good many failures of 297x and 760x joints are because of the half circle snap rings spitting out and the cap walking out. A full circle snap ring greatly improves the survivability of your joints.
I've broken two stub shafts at the hub end...but not a super joint.
Like someone said before, you can trash a perfectly good moly shaft because you break a stock joint and the ears hit....at which time you didn't save yourself any money.
Hope this helps.
or you could buy my complete dana 44 with chrome moly shafts, super joints, 4:56 gears and a detroit for the low price of $1,000.

What he said. If you aren't going to run something like a superjoint or longfield joint with chromo shafts, dont even run the chromo shafts. You will end up paying for it. I did.
 
Chromos are what I've got so that's what I'll be running and they have full circle clips on them now.
 
My pass side axle is a STOCK inner, YUKON CHROMO outer, with a YUKON SUPER JOINT, and I FULLY WELDED the capsto the STOCK INNER shaft.

I have found that if I am running stock shafts with YUKON SUPER JOINTS it makes them last longer if I welder the caps to em ;D

just put the axles & joints together like normal, then completly weld the caps to the shafts.

let them cool off then GREASE THE POOP out of em & go ;D
 
I have a set of superjoints for sale, used $150
also a yukon outer $50
A superior outer $75
dutchman inners 16 1/2" and 35 1/4" $200 for the set
 

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