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Dana 60 camber question???

dirtygoat

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I took apart my 60 and removed the knuckles...

Well, I started cleaning up the parts to inspect and see if I needed to replace anything and the upper bushing didn't look right...

The hole on the top is offset and has 1 deg stamped into it... It's also grey not white...

After a bit of searching it appears that someone has replaced the original kingpin bushings with an adjustable camber one...

Anyone ever see this???

I found a website with a pdf that shows the kit I have... It's at the very bottom of the page...

Tell me what you think...

http://www.specprod.com/CATALOG_DIR/LtTruckSUV_08.pdf
 
Stock ones work good, or run those if they are in good shape, you already have them.
 
have you had the housing checked for straightness?

you have to wonder why is has/needs and adjustable bushing.
 
sometimes the knuckles are not put on perfectly straight from the factory. the owner prolly took it to schwabbie and had it aligned... that is their fix. We used Tera inner c's and dyna trac outers... the camber was off between the two. so we added 1 deg. had I known there was a difference when I installed the c's I would have changed it than. Not a big deal or anything I would worry about.
 
sometimes the knuckles are not put on perfectly straight from the factory. the owner prolly took it to schwabbie and had it aligned... that is their fix. We used Tera inner c's and dyna trac outers... the camber was off between the two. so we added 1 deg. had I known there was a difference when I installed the c's I would have changed it than. Not a big deal or anything I would worry about.


good information to know.
 
I'm not sure if they were put in for camber or caster...

It's on both sides and not knowing any better I didn't pay attention to how they were set when I pulled everything apart...

There's a cross keyway that is sitting in the big allen wrench hole on top of the kingpins that allow for set up of caster or camber... When you rotate the upper bushing that's offset to where you want, you drop in the key...

Everything looks to be in good shape...

I might have to play with it to get it right...
 
Jack the axle up and put it on jackstands (assuming it already is in your case) make sure the axletubes are flat or at zero. put in the camber schim and put the knuckle on. using an angle finder on hte face of the knuckle it should be zero (on unitbearing or spindle face) if it reads zero than your good go. they may have put them in for castor adjustment (wrong way to do it) but they generally only go one way. the split should face outward on a 60.
 
The bushing doesn't have a split like a normal bushing...

Here's the offset that it has...

100_4864.jpg



Here's the keyway on top of the bushing...

100_4863.jpg
 
my bad---remove "camber" from my above post and insert "caster" :haha:

Ok I see how it works now. So the part that really locks it into place sits in the hex. Interesting, I would have never guessed...
 
ok... any time someone talks of shiming a 60 it is a balljoint not trunion. Generally those use schim/ spacer behind the spindle.... I have never seen that adjustment for trunion 60...... if it is for castor attack that differnetly by adjusting the axle... it seems odd you would need a part like that to make it work. we have never had to use one... or seen one before. and I have done a buttload of trunion front axles.
 
ok... any time someone talks of shiming a 60 it is a balljoint not trunion. Generally those use schim/ spacer behind the spindle.... I have never seen that adjustment for trunion 60...... if it is for castor attack that differnetly by adjusting the axle... it seems odd you would need a part like that to make it work. we have never had to use one... or seen one before. and I have done a buttload of trunion front axles.

I don't feel so bad now :haha::haha::haha: Granted we don't see any of that old stuff on the alignment rack (or anything with a straight axle).
 
looking at that kit more... I say throw that CRAP in the trash and put normal stuff in the front..... that thing is a widget for some assbag that works at les schwab to use as some excuse to correct a "small" change on an alignment issue that the machiene is showing.... they prolly charged a ton of $ for that. I would say to try to make it right if this where your tow rig... but even in that case this is a bandaid. if it is infact off that much where it is causing driveability issues than either an inner knuckle is bent or the housing is. replace the bent or broken peice. check the housing like I stated earlier in the thread and see what the numbers say. If your in that far you should do trunion kits anyway.
 
looking at that kit more... I say throw that CRAP in the trash and put normal stuff in the front..... that thing is a widget for some assbag that works at les schwab to use as some excuse to correct a "small" change on an alignment issue that the machiene is showing.... they prolly charged a ton of $ for that. I would say to try to make it right if this where your tow rig... but even in that case this is a bandaid. if it is infact off that much where it is causing driveability issues than either an inner knuckle is bent or the housing is. replace the bent or broken peice. check the housing like I stated earlier in the thread and see what the numbers say. If your in that far you should do trunion kits anyway.


I planned on checking everything like you mentioned...

I'll just order two rebuild kits anyways...
 
I don't feel so bad now :haha::haha::haha: Granted we don't see any of that old stuff on the alignment rack (or anything with a straight axle).


No joke huh..... he is talking alignment schim.. I am thinking dana 60.... ok so like on our front axles... than he shows us that "THING" LOL I looked at it thinking WTF???? but it can't adjust unless you cut the knuckles off or the perches on trunions. WELP there it is in all it's flamin glory. that little GEM belongs in a pile with that redline **** you threw out in your back yard! :redneck: :haha:
 
I am going to agree with jason--toss it. For what its used for you would never feel 1 degree anyways(hell even 2 for that fact). On the road you would slighly but more noticably in the tire wear.
 
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