Dana 60 help

4link · May 11, 2006

i have to agree that a ff 60 is way overkill for this rig but they are way easy to work with and fairly cheap. as far as spindle ends go if you have a early model 60 which is 63.5" wms to wms (i think) it's a small bearing rear and you can't bore the ends. you need a later model 60 with a big bearing spindle which is 66.5" (again, i think), then you could bore the ends out.alternatives are, buy a d70 and rob the ends, or buy a d 61 and rob the ends for boring. as for the brake kits your looking at. $400 is way too much for brakes, imo. buy chev mid 70's front 3/4 ton brakes from the local auto store and some weld on caliper brackets from s&n fab..

97trxuszj · May 11, 2006

cool, so none of the spindles detach from the housing on the D60's? they are all welded to the axle?

KarlVP · May 11, 2006

crash said:
"blah blah blah'

Plus you will have ALOT less parts to worry about.

"blah blah blah"

NAILED

It's A LOT two words.

It's not in the dictionary. I checked.

BOOMSHAKALAKA!!!

crash2 · May 11, 2006

97trxuszj said:
cool, so none of the spindles detach from the housing on the D60's? they are all welded to the axle?

Yes they are welded to the housing..

97trxuszj · May 11, 2006

well I have been doing some research and some reading and have come to the conclusion I an gonna buy a cheap DD car and then just wheel my jeep and if my d44's with alloys break or the d44 breaks in general a few times then I will upgrade to d60's but for now I am gonna leave the jeep alone. Thanks to all of you whomb have helped me and gave me info, in that I hve found like stated above I'm not ready for 60's quite yet.

97trxuszj · May 14, 2006

ok well I got the d60 anyways, I tore it down got it to the bare spindles and housing, my question is should I just go take it to a machine shop and ask them to machine the spindles or what? or should I buy the alloy FF flanged shafts off pirate and take them and the housing to the machine shop and tell them to machine them until they fit? Also I was debating on going 8 lug or getting new hubs and going 5 on 5.5 what is your guys prefferance? 8 lug is cheaper by far, because I just need OEM hubs from napa stock parts and new bearings and seals and then the flanged shafts, and the spindles reamed, and then disc brake kit off ebay right?

97trxuszj · May 15, 2006

to get my spindles bored out machine shops want about $75 and hr and say it'll take about 3-5 hrs, any body know where else or what else I can do? I have a set or 35 spline 1.5" shafts on the way

Kelly · May 15, 2006

Talk to Bunk about machining stuff....

Avanteone · May 17, 2006

Andrew, quit throwing money at that POS and GO WHEEL IT!

How do you know what's gonna break when you've had it out.... ONCE?

You've dumped a shitload of coin at it this past year, go fawking beat on it for the summer and quit working on it!

J

Nuzzy · May 17, 2006

Avanteone said:
Andrew, quit throwing money at that POS and GO WHEEL IT!

How do you know what's gonna break when you've had it out.... ONCE?

You've dumped a shitload of coin at it this past year, go fawking beat on it for the summer and quit working on it!

J

That's what I'm gonna do!! I don't KNOW that my D30 will break with a welded front and 37s :redneck: :haha: :haha:

Avanteone · May 17, 2006

Nuzzy said:
That's what I'm gonna do!! I don't KNOW that my D30 will break with a welded front and 37s :redneck: :haha: :haha:

You'll be FINE! Just put it in 4-lo and leave the hubs unlocked :flipoff:

Nuzzy · May 17, 2006

Avanteone said:
You'll be FINE! Just put it in 4-lo and leave the hubs unlocked :flipoff:

Screw that... I'm putting the twin stick I've had sitting in momma's garage onto my Dana 300 just so I can do redneck front digs!! :flipoff: :haha: :haha: :haha: :haha:

Berne · May 17, 2006

not to sound like an elitest....

but honestly....this is going into the rear of a cherokee...

if you're going big (tires/gearing/motor/driving style), and are looking to save some money, throw away the '60, buy a 14 bolt and be done with it.

if its really just going to be a wheelin' cherokee, put a 9" back there or something....

IMO.....
unless you're prepared to just throw money at it and need all out bling (and still have a 'breakable' R&P)....stay away from a rear D60....

--B

97trxuszj · May 18, 2006

AVANTEONE- I am trying to pick up some axles cheap and build them over the next year or so and acumulate tires, beadlocks, front 60, blah blah blah, I am gonna wheel the piss out of the jeep once I can find a cheap Daily Driver, so I do not have to worry about going wheeling and breaking my ****. whats so breakable about a d60 with 35 spline spool and alloys with 39.5-42's with a v8? I am not gonna be heavy on the foot, even though I know guys turring 44's on heavier vehicles and not breaking shafts. I think d60's f/r will be fine, as long as I can get my spindles boared out to fit the 1.5" 35 spline shafts.

PS called randys R&P today and got a quote for a 14 bolt to build it would cost 1,150.00 and to build my d60 it was 744.00 that was for gears, locker, 35 spline shafts ( for the d 60) and master install kits

Cascade_Crawler · May 18, 2006

97trxuszj said:
whats so breakable about a d60 with 35 spline spool and alloys with 39.5-42's with a v8?

Your unibody...

Have you thought about hydro steering, a cage, a transfercase that will holdup to 42's, or realizing you may have to trailer this rig...?

Berne · May 18, 2006

97trxuszj said:
PS called randys R&P today and got a quote for a 14 bolt to build it would cost 1,150.00 and to build my d60 it was 744.00 that was for gears, locker, 35 spline shafts ( for the d 60) and master install kits

no way....you got some bad info or something....
gears for the 60 and 14 bolt should be 'similar' in price, bearings/install kit will prolly be a little more for the 14 bolt......

then a detroit for the 14 bolt is like $350......and your done.

for the 60, you've still got to bore spindles, buy axles, and buy a 35spline locker/carrier

97trxuszj · May 19, 2006

XJonathan- Hydro assit would be a mod along with 1 tons, also with psc box, I am gonna do a full exo, my 242 TC until it blows then an atlas, and I will be towing this rig once all this is done.

Berne- 14 bolt: detroit $418.00, 5.13's $386.00, master install kit $153.00, stock carrier $221.00 was told that the detroit installs into the stock carrier and I needed a new one. Total $1,178.00 Total with a spool is $1,000

D60: 35 spline alloy shafts $234.00, 35 spline spool $172.00, 5.13's $173.00, master install kit $164.00, boaring spindles $175.00. Total is $918.00

Donahue · May 19, 2006

why did nobody tell you about a D60-2? it came out of 60's and 70's fords. they were semi float, 5x5.5 lug pattern, and had 35 spline axles that neck up to over 2" past the splines. i sold one for $250 awhile back.

check ebay for better prices. i got a detroit for a 14b for about $300. and if you are going to run a spool, you can just weld it. you can weld both the open carrier (prefered) and you can weld the gov-loc carrier aswell. i say this cause i have friends that run welded gov-locs. and a "stock carrier" does not cost $221. another 14b with a "stock" aka open carrrier shouldnt run you more than about $150. another option is get a millitary 14b. i got mine for (we will say) $500. it has 4.56 and a detroit already. then add your 5.13 gears and the install kit, and you still saye money.

your "total" cost is a lot higher than it needs to be. why not save some money and be "creative" about how you buy your parts? but what do i know, i struggle to eat sometimes.

97trxuszj · May 20, 2006

Ok I check around how would you guys recomend welding the spiders in the open carrier? I mean yes I know clean them up and dry them then weld but do you guys cool them down in motor oil or 80-90 wt whatever it is? or just let them cool? Is a lincoln locker just as strong as a spool? also I need to find some thick 5.13's looks like nobody has them in stock right now any thoughts? I have decided to go with a 14 bolt if you havn't already figured that out and just sell the D60.